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tzei

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Blog Entries posted by tzei

  1. tzei

    A hobby in a hobby: B48A20E

    By tzei,


    B48 - hobby engine
    So cuz it was cheap. A lie of all lies right?
    I bought a seized engine out of  2021 F40 BMW M135i xdrive, 225 kW. Will this jorney ever lead to fruitation as in means of suplying a force to move a vehicle I do not know. I consider this a mental health project
     
    First i stripped wiring harness and a few water hoses off and then it was time to remove oil pan for inspection. Rod bearings were toasted! #3 was worst. Mains looked fine but this was just caps off so no idea of upper shells. Bottom ones are red (extra layering for start/stop feature so they’ll take abuse better). So immediately i binned oil pump. After getting bottom end ”loosened” engine is still solid. Pistons have made out with bores?
     
    Connection rods are dead. Crankshaft? Maybe dead too, we’ll see.
     
    This one needs a way more special tools than M10…


  2. tzei

    Rear disc brakes

    By tzei,


    Rear disc brakes
    So closing stages of gettiing M2 back on the road I wanted to adjust rear drums…
    Alert! Mission creep.
    Those shoe adjustment things were solid. Buggers didn’t wanna move no matter what. Then i thought f ’em, I’ll go disc.
    Many have done this & kits are available but after shipping & taxes cost would be too much. Because hobby I put tinkering mode on and went diy.
     
    Called local chop chop if they had VW golf 3 or 4 rear calibers. Not surpisingly they did. Went to pick up a pair (20 €) which had new pads on them. Nice. These i pulled out of Bora cause dude said they’re the same as Golf4 and it was top of other car - was easy ( -12C and dark and i was lazy).
     
    Off comes 250 mm drums, back plates, 22 mm cylinders & last pipe section. Venier in hand taking some numbers up and drawing some pics.
     
    Now I didn’t want to turn rear hubs to suit VW front disc I stared searching internet for disc options…
    ”a few hours later”
    found my discs: Civic VII. Rear disc has good dimensions. O.d 260 mm, 9 mm th and off set looks doable. Centre bore was bigger than hub so i turned spacer rings to get them centered. Also drilled & tapped holes for fixing discs to hubs so  they stay in place while wheel is off. I eventually did turn hubs center part radius to flange face smaller ( like E21 has iirc) but might not had to. Dunno, i was tired that night when i figured this part and turned those spacers lol.
     
    I made template/ mock up adapter of 10 mm thick sheet metal. Orginally I wanted to mount caliper 3 o’clock (as in normally) but pretty soon it turned out not to be possible. Shock & bracket steel would be in a way. The way calibers bleed nipple is orientared so that I thought I could get away with 5 o’clock position - I want to bleed system w/o moving rear calibers in order to bleed them. I did grind a bit steel off of the shock bracket to get caliber as high as i could.
     
    Mock up adapter turned out nicely. 1-2 mm fine tuning for caliber mounts was needed. Went and cut some steel for adapters. Then turned them straight & threaded for calibers. 
     
    Disassembled both calibers. One had broken dust cover so bought repair kit and replaced seal and dust boot. At this time i found out that these were not same as Golf4 calibers. G4 has 38 mm piston and these have 41 mm piston! So I’ll find out if this is good or will I need to hunt 38’s to replace these ( 270 mm  vented fronts, 4x40 mm front calibers & 23.81 mm mc). Carriers are going to be attached from the opposite side to adapter than they are in vw. So turned some 1.5 mm from that side off to get flat surface. Then they got media blasted and painted. All innards cleaned put em back together. Needed to buy tool for pushing and turning the piston in. Orginally carriers have threads to attach them to vw trailing arm. My application didn’t allow this. Drilled them through with 10 mm dril bit. Adapters have threads for fixing them in place. I used same vw bolts as orginally (metric fine thread).
     
    Then the hand brake cables. I think i have E21 cables cause 250 mm drums was on. Maybe 02 cables would work the same. Took long spring out from the shoe lever end bulge at the and was just about right for vw lever. Also caliber at 5 o’clock position gave me perfect line for that cable to meet the lever. Lenght was some issue so i welded tube to vw cable bracket to take BMW cable & adjust lenght correctly.
     
    I wanted some back plates for looks and keeping stuff from getting there to give trouble later. Using disc as a template i cut sheet metal pieces. Cut opening for caliber, bead rolled some grooves to stiffen it up & bend the edge a little. These gets sanwitched between trailing arm and adapter plate. Welded 6 mm bolt to support brake line.
     
    Bought golf 4 rear brake lines. Older (febi) version is one piece pipe & hose thing but newer is two piece: hose and pipe are separate. One piece version required some handeling as pipe part had all wrong bends and it was about 10 cm too long. Rebended to suit, cut and flared the end. No biggie. Other (2 piece) was too easy. Made correct leght pipe and that was that. 
     
    Bleeding the system. Jacked rear end until that bleed nipples were high enough to be the high point. It was high but i think i got it. Suspension was at full droop so there room for more if needs to be.
     
    Wheels... E30 steelies does not fit anymore. They need like 30 mm or so spacers. Bye bye steelies. Liked them. Next my E30 BBS 6.5x14"  basket weaves. No. Need spacers. Not so much. Tried quickly with 5 mm ones. Not quite but close. I think i revisit these later date. Now i had perfect excuse to get me 15" rims i've always wanted.  
     
    Now i need to wait till April/May to confirm brake bias/balace. Fingers crossed
     
    Some pics for your viewing pleasure. Maybe in random order.















  3. tzei

    Dash paint

    By tzei,


    Upholstery
    And finally after 1.5 rattle cans later all is semi gloss black. Dash is in the car now. No cracks yet so let’s see…



  5. tzei

    Typ188 LSD

    By tzei,


    Typ188 LSD
    My 4.10 lsd acted up so it was time to take it apart. Two ring gear bolts had come off and rest were hand tight. I guess my semi hard locking compound melted away. Bolt(s) jammed gear so that it didn't go backwards at all. One of the friction plates had all teeth cut off and pressure plate was toasted. Metal flakes all over the place. Bearings had to go so full build for this was in order.
     
    Machine shop turned and resurfaced pressure ring alright. Took 0.30 mm off. They told me that ZF p/rings have 1-1.5 mm hard surface to work with so it should be fine. But i wanted to try something else for ramps. This one had oe 45/45 ramps. Took my 4.45:1 diff and took lsd unit out for this one. This unit has Drexler p/rings (50/70 & 45/80 ramps), one clutch set each side and lightest possible springs in it. So it's in essence zero preload unit.
     
    Part list:
    SKF bearings, pinion: HM 88542/2/510/2/QCL7C, HM 89449/2/410/2/QLC7C
                             side: LM 503349A/310/QCL7C
    OE gaskets, pinion: 31 50 7 609 535
                          side: 33 10 7 505 602
    crush washer: 33 12 1 744 368
     
    Torques:
    Ring gear bolts: 55 Nm + 55 deg. Locite 270.
    lsd lock unit cover: 33 Nm. Semi-hard locking compound.
     
    Some pics in random order...
     

     
     
     
  6. tzei

    Getting closer

    By tzei,


    Z00Z
    First I measured center line for both chassis. And rear axle line for both. So rear wheel would be in correct position in regards to 02 shell. This was very time consuming. Lowering and alingning 02 on top of E85 floor to see where to cut next. Then winch 02 up to make room to work. Back down again, aling. Repeat. When I got to about 5 cm from touch down I found out that my support cage was getting in way. I had to make cage to outside of 02 chassis and remove tubing from the cockpit. This was also important bcz I wanted to be able to weld roll cage roof tubes all around before I mate the two chassis. I wish I had done this from the start. Oh well it is what it is.
     
    And we have a touch down! 02 chassis on correct level on top of E85 floor. Phew!
     
    Very early on I knew that rocker panels would be an issue. They don't match 02 at any level. This needs to be sorted next.

     

     
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
  7. tzei

    Z4 to the table

    By tzei,


    Z00Z
    Now this took awhile. Dismantling was pretty straight forward. But removing all that factory chassis glue/sound deadning was rough. Well got my neck & arms trained. Btw cars wire loom weights about 50 kg. Some rust spots had begun to developing under plastic panels inside wheel arches but nothing major.
     
    Getting this chassis on the table by self was sweaty task. Two floor jacks, two by fours, plywood bits and sweat. No blood was spilled.
     
    Measured chassis dimensions and they all checked. Now was time to level chassis and fix it to the table. Bolted front cross member back and welded braces from that to table. More iron to hold front upper suspension towers in place. In rear turned some parts and welded rear axle carrier points to table. Also rockers got welded to table about every 10 cm or so. Rear trailing arm pots got supports from table. Chassis rails got supports to table from FCAB fixing locations. And of course rearmost downward structure got fixed to the table. Should hold it in place. I hope, we’ll see.
     
    Point of no return closes in. Plasma torch is whispering…










  8. tzei

    Samsonas 6-speed h pattern

    By tzei,


    Samsonas gearbox
    As per title here’s some pics of mine. Bought it few years back with shifter. Had to modify shifter base to accomodate height to engage all gears. Connection rod needs to be parraller to gearbox in order to function properly. Also due space available i had to mount it backwards. Does not change function thou. Reverse gear lever needs to be pushed by palm but it’s not hard to get used to.
             Asked what oil i need to use. Answer was ”oil”. ”But don’t use red line”. I quess it leaves internals b&€*s to clean up when it’s time for overhaul? So i went with Comma 85W-140. Have worked well with it. I had to fab up guide tube for throw out bearing - some lathe time sortetd that out and i needed to grind some room for Getrag clutch slave cylinder - no biggie.
             Can be flat shifted w/out clutch although i tend use clutch and be gentle with it. Gear change? Eats from the hand. Very nice box. Heavy yes but should be strong.
  9. tzei

    Paint

    By tzei,


    Paint
    Primer: 1st DeBeer - gray 2nd 4CR - white
    top coat: Spies Hecker BMW Colorado
    some Zn spray to critical zones
    Black chip guard
     
    1st time i got to paint in owen & good lights. Was fun.





































  10. tzei

    Half shafts rehab

    By tzei,


    Half shafts
    Had trouble with rubber bellow at race track. Changed spare but some grease left... I have type 188 diff and big cvj's but smaller 02 cvj's goes same way.
     
    Time to have a look. Here is some carnage:
      
    Orientation of the joint innards:next some centre piece pictures. These you don't want see.
    1st is from 02 cvj. Pretty bad.
     
    This is from larger joint. Not good.
     


    Cage dimensions are same but kept them same way as they were.

     
    It was impossible to take photos while greasing innards but i put first centre piece in cage and filled ”holes” with heavy duty EP grease. Used to have graphite/MoS but it was pretty cooked up so therefore change of grease. 

    Joint back on shaft and glued for cap.


    Cap cleaned and greased. Used dremel wire wheel to clean old glue, rust etc.

    Cap got also a thin smear of glue

     
     
    Cap on and i used joint bolts to tightenig. Left to cure over night. Next will be clamping the boots and i’ll be using also same glue for the joint end boot lip.
     


    There, going back to duty.

     
     









  11. tzei

    Dash cracks

    By tzei,


    Upholstery
    All righty then. So this is not a build block per se as no particular vechicle is beeing build from a scratch. There might be one some day so i might just learn how this block stuff works.
     
    So without further ado straight to the deep end: dash repair. 2-piece dash cracked badly. No substitutes in horizon i thought to repair it and see if it could be done & how long it will last. Opened all cracks with straight grinder and removed some foam under vinyl ”lip”.




  12. tzei

    The head

    By tzei,


    The head
    So i made new valve tool that has individual rods to push valves out to fit a cam. It worked well. New Eibach double springs in. Old ones had lost about 3-4 kgs. Ti retainers. Seat pressures shimmed to 46 kg. At 11 mm lift they have about 90 kg. New KM rockers went in. Old (and earlier cast) had somewhat wear in them so it was time to change them. Also newer cast is lighter so that’s a plus. Adjusted rocker lash to 0.1 mm. Valve clearenses set to 0.25 mm. My valve press is pretty lame looking but it works. Have done all my M10 & S14 valve assemblies with it. 






  13. tzei

    Door windows

    By tzei,


    Door windows
    So as i’m going over M2 i’m replacing glasing to a tinted set i bought to my self as a birthday present. Othera are in and the doors are last to get done. So here is how i went about it.
     
    Vent window
    As it’s usually referred, one has to push about half opened vent window frame downward in order to release it from upper pivot point (hinge). My r/side was pretty non co-operative and i made mistake of pulling outer frame upwards. As this did help releasing pivot point it also deformed the shape of outer frame. When vent window was closed upper corner had about 8 mm gap. Rubber mallet took care of this and i got it back to shape. Also window was quite loose during this vulgar display of power.
     
    On a left side i choose not repeat this and i only pushed vent window down. Now this didn’t release it’s frame from the pivot point but i got window out from the frame. As i thought this could be possible by looking window that i had remowed (and the new ones) i pursued this route. Again i cleaned all dust etc that was in rubber seal cavity i then put some soap water there and on new window and pushed it in in a same but opposite manner i pulled old out. I didn’t went all the way home so again with rubber mallet and some semi-leathal force i got it to go all the way.
     
    in a photo you’ll see relive shapes for frame rivets (blue circles) and red arrows shows direction of pull when i removed it. Assembly was reverded order. I used wood table as an anvil to support vent frame as i hammered window home. First round (lower front) and then changed position so that leading edge of the frame was supported by the table. 
     
    so frame stayed in its place all the time. In theory window could be removed with everything is still in door/car but putting one back - well i’d like to do it on a table and whole vent window frame assembly out of the door.
     
    Bigger windows have now bottom edge parts glued in. I used Bostik contact glue. I media plasted metal parts and then painted with rattle cans. First Zn base coat and then black. Rubber hmm seals? that goes between metal part and window had some rust inbedded in them. This was hard to try to scrape off so i thought of media blasting these and i worked very well!
     
    Doors has now everything needed for windows and all parts are now pretty loose so i can start to adjustments next.
     
    Door stoppers are shortened E21 units. Rubber bellow for el.wires is sourced from Mercedes (W123 i think).
     
    Door seals are washed and old glue residues scrapet off. Thumb nail was good at this. To finnish of to be glued surfaces i gave them good scrub with 120 grid sand paper. These seals was aquired new from BMW when i first put the cat together. Wasn’t that happy how they fitted. Doors where hard to close. Maybe it was the door maybe not. I’ll start with these and see what happens. I have one new oe (lh) from WN. I might try this next and this fails then i prolly find some well used orginals from 70’s and call it a day. I’m pretty much fed up with this door seal biz.
     
     
     






     
    Don’t forget to glue trailing edge rubber with plastic inserts before assembly to door.
     

     
    Now about door seals. Wasn’t too happy with seals i had bought when fist time doing this car and feeling was the same now. Too bulky or hard so closing door takes some force. Bends frame/window - no good. Took them off and put new oe to driver side. Immediately felt better. Rubber is more soft and bouncy. Door closes as it should. Now i need to find new oe for rh side. Cleaned old one from 70’s. I’ll go with this on a rh side for now.
     
    So now i have vent window frame installed and position adjusted to door opening/seal. So here is drop windows leading edge position as well. Now for putting this window to door i push leading edge to frame guide and lower it into door. Windows bottom bracket is bit wide to clear front ”up position limiter” metal lip inside the door so i had to loosen frames rear m6 bolt to get some wiggle room. When bracet gets past the lip i tightened the bolt back. Lowering windod to about half way where my e.window mechnism is i attach window bracket to mechanism (elevator?). With manual mechanism you may have to do this bit differently.
     
    Now i run window up so that from the first uppermost openings i can assemble front and read glides to window. Then i run window up and rear glide guide can be thigneded from the top (one m6 bolt), bottom bolts (2x m6) are still loose. Now i run window down and adjust rear guide so that window is about in the middle of door (window) opening and tighten the two bolts.
     
    Last thing is to set front and rear up position stops so that window stops at correct level and position. 
     
    So there it is.
     
     
     

  14. tzei

    M10 baffled wet sump oil pan

    By tzei,


    Wet sump
    Found some pics of my latest race wet sump i thought i share. This performed well. Total oil volume was about 5.5-6 L iirc. It's was ugly alright but b/c race car. Now my M2 has same type hinged baffle plates and uses S14 oe windage tray.
     
    Changed over to a dry sump system when i moved engine further back.



  15. tzei

    Light doors GF

    By tzei,


    Light Doors
    So i bought DIY kit from Germany years back. Glass fibre but blown, not rowing mat or anything so not as light as could be i quess. Added some extra support to the hinge side as they felt little weak. I made molds if/when i need to make new pair. Then they will be made from woven mat gf or cf - we'll see. Some pics for those who are interested.



























  16. tzei

    Rear wing

    By tzei,


    Rear wing
    Some pics of carbon rear wing. Profile is scaled from F4 formula rear wing. Width 165 cm = 2002 turbo homologation width - max per rules. It’s pretty low as rules dictates it has to be in 20 x 20 cm space from side view, chassis is one plane.








  18. tzei

    Beginning (the snatch)

    By tzei,


    Z00Z
    Long overdue to write something down but here I go. Things started to happen in 2018.
     
    In a quest to get better suspension geometry for 02 race car and all good things that comes along I started to investigate the subject. I had bought myself two E30 M3 rear axles earlier. Now my current front end works pretty well but rear seems to be harder to grasp - atleast for me. At this point I was thinking of replacing current 02 based rear axle with something a) not hacked b) more modern to start with. 02 rear axle design was penned, what, late 50's or early 60's? So no E30 stuff albeit it can be made fast. Next thought was it could be something that has more modern engineering behind it. So then I sourced all aluminium E39 sedan (lightest version of those mind you) rear axle. After some more investigation I came to conclusion that while it's plausible there are some issues regarding wheel control and I abandoned this route. More thinking was required. At that time I had driven two E36 race cars and one of them was M3 version. Now those things handles quite well I must say. So how to put E36 axles to an 02? Front wouldn't be that much of a problem but the rear. Now there is some challenge to be honest. But the thought persisted. Internet is your friend (at times) and look and behold: E85 Z4M has almost the same axle base (2497 mm) than 02 (2500 mm). Normal E85 Z4 has more difference (2494 mm). Pretty darn close. What if I take whole E85 floor with axles (all in correct factory places) and just put 02 chassis (sans floor) on top of it? Now that's neat idea! Lets roll with that.
     
    Soooo where to get dirty cheap, no accident Z4? RHD's are cheaper than LHD's so where are lots of rhd cars to choose from? In UK! But Brexit was looming over so I had to act quickly. Me and my buddy bought plane tickets to London and off we went. Had looked the market and made contact with one seller. Car had to be in shape for a long road trip. First car had some issues with documents and I called next potential seller. Off to other side of London to meet him. The car was ok, nothing major so we did the paperwork and I bought that car. 2003 Z4 2.5i with about 186 000 km's on clock was mine. Seemed that we had some brake bads, fluids - enough, tires had air - road trip here we go!

    At London about to view first car. This was 24.7.2018
     
    1st stint took us from London to Dover. It was pretty late and train was booked and no ferries avaiable. There was one room vacant in Dover so we took that and spend the night there. Next morning tickets to ferry and to France.

    Near Dover docs. No way to cross over to main land.
     

    Dover by night.
     

    About to board.
     

    In a ferry to France.
     

    Bye UK.
     
    From ferry we hit the road and I though what's wrong with these ppl as evereybody was driving so slowly. Took me few km's to figure out that I was driving by miles rather that km/h. Now that calmed things down. Long story short next Belgium, Netherlands and Germany.
     

    Pitstop in Germany. I think.
     

    Another stop. I think this was Denmark.
     
    Next night in northern Germany. Then Danmark, we had time to visit a small viking boat museum at Ladsby. Nice sunny day & icecreams. Then to Sweden.
     

    Sweden. Somewhere between Malmö and Jönköping.
     

    Morning in Stockholm. Waiting to get to ship.
     
    We were about to sleep in car near Mantorp but Z4's aren't that comfy so that was a bust. Drove all night to Stockholm, bought tickets to a morning ship to Finland, got in and crashed to bed as soon as it was possible. Next day was last stint to hometown. All and all it was 2520 km trip in 5 days. The car worked just fine all we did was we put more gasoline in it at times. What a nice car to drive. I enjoyed every minute that I was behind the wheel.

    Home sweet home.
  19. tzei

    2002 chassis, starting point

    By tzei,


    2002 chassis
    Here is victim I sourced for 1st trial/mockup. To my defence shell had donored some sheet metal parts and it had had minor LF accident + someone had started some guestionable rust repairs. So it was kinda ruined already.
     

     
     

     

     


     

  20. tzei
    I decided to cut the shell in areas that I won't be needing to make it a) lighter to move b) for blaster to be able to clear rust/goo as much as possible. I build a cage around it so moving and blasting on a fork lift forks wouldn't damage shell any further. 
     
    It was time consuming to try figure out what I needed from 02 chassis and what would be left from E85 chassis to be able to mate them as seamlessly as possible. Jigpuzzle with optimally just two parts. 
     
    With jig table levelled I made two, hmm, towers from old rotesserie and some scrap metal to each end of the table so I could winch chassis up & down as needed. Two manual chain winches volunteered for the job.
     
    Time to get a plasma cutter
     











  21. tzei

    Jig table

    By tzei,


    Z00Z
    In order to even remotely achive some kind of acceptable end product I needed a firm table to conduct metal work.
    Near by metal shop was selling a table they no longer needed so I went and grabbed that and had it delivered to my garage.
     
    With four trolleys and an iron bar I was able to wiggle it inside.
     
    Leveled table with laser and steel shim plates.

  24. tzei

    And cut

    By tzei,


    Z00Z
    First I confirmed rear axle line as this going to match 02 chassis rear axle line. Marked position to chassis and table. This was actually done before last supports was added.
     
    Determided center line for both chassis and rear axle line for 02 chassis. This was very time consuming and frustrating task but I needed to get this right.
     
    Then it was plasma cutter time. What a fancy tool! Cutting goes so painlessly and gets to places that angle grinder doesn’t. Also it’s very easy to cut wrong. Steady hands I say.
     
    Also wincing up and down was slow. No way around this. Lower enough to see where to cut next. Then up to have room to work then down bit more. Repeat. Larger bits was easy but closer I got more slowly it went. I didn’t want to cut too much so that I would need to weld pieces back.
     









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