So as i’m going over M2 i’m replacing glasing to a tinted set i bought to my self as a birthday present. Othera are in and the doors are last to get done. So here is how i went about it.

Vent window

As it’s usually referred, one has to push about half opened vent window frame downward in order to release it from upper pivot point (hinge). My r/side was pretty non co-operative and i made mistake of pulling outer frame upwards. As this did help releasing pivot point it also deformed the shape of outer frame. When vent window was closed upper corner had about 8 mm gap. Rubber mallet took care of this and i got it back to shape. Also window was quite loose during this vulgar display of power.
 

On a left side i choose not repeat this and i only pushed vent window down. Now this didn’t release it’s frame from the pivot point but i got window out from the frame. As i thought this could be possible by looking window that i had remowed (and the new ones) i pursued this route. Again i cleaned all dust etc that was in rubber seal cavity i then put some soap water there and on new window and pushed it in in a same but opposite manner i pulled old out. I didn’t went all the way home so again with rubber mallet and some semi-leathal force i got it to go all the way.

in a photo you’ll see relive shapes for frame rivets (blue circles) and red arrows shows direction of pull when i removed it. Assembly was reverded order. I used wood table as an anvil to support vent frame as i hammered window home. First round (lower front) and then changed position so that leading edge of the frame was supported by the table. 
 

so frame stayed in its place all the time. In theory window could be removed with everything is still in door/car but putting one back - well i’d like to do it on a table and whole vent window frame assembly out of the door.

Bigger windows have now bottom edge parts glued in. I used Bostik contact glue. I media plasted metal parts and then painted with rattle cans. First Zn base coat and then black. Rubber hmm seals? that goes between metal part and window had some rust inbedded in them. This was hard to try to scrape off so i thought of media blasting these and i worked very well!

Doors has now everything needed for windows and all parts are now pretty loose so i can start to adjustments next.

Door stoppers are shortened E21 units. Rubber bellow for el.wires is sourced from Mercedes (W123 i think).

Door seals are washed and old glue residues scrapet off. Thumb nail was good at this. To finnish of to be glued surfaces i gave them good scrub with 120 grid sand paper. These seals was aquired new from BMW when i first put the cat together. Wasn’t that happy how they fitted. Doors where hard to close. Maybe it was the door maybe not. I’ll start with these and see what happens. I have one new oe (lh) from WN. I might try this next and this fails then i prolly find some well used orginals from 70’s and call it a day. I’m pretty much fed up with this door seal biz.

Don’t forget to glue trailing edge rubber with plastic inserts before assembly to door.

Now about door seals. Wasn’t too happy with seals i had bought when fist time doing this car and feeling was the same now. Too bulky or hard so closing door takes some force. Bends frame/window - no good. Took them off and put new oe to driver side. Immediately felt better. Rubber is more soft and bouncy. Door closes as it should. Now i need to find new oe for rh side. Cleaned old one from 70’s. I’ll go with this on a rh side for now.

So now i have vent window frame installed and position adjusted to door opening/seal. So here is drop windows leading edge position as well. Now for putting this window to door i push leading edge to frame guide and lower it into door. Windows bottom bracket is bit wide to clear front ”up position limiter” metal lip inside the door so i had to loosen frames rear m6 bolt to get some wiggle room. When bracet gets past the lip i tightened the bolt back. Lowering windod to about half way where my e.window mechnism is i attach window bracket to mechanism (elevator?). With manual mechanism you may have to do this bit differently.
 

Now i run window up so that from the first uppermost openings i can assemble front and read glides to window. Then i run window up and rear glide guide can be thigneded from the top (one m6 bolt), bottom bolts (2x m6) are still loose. Now i run window down and adjust rear guide so that window is about in the middle of door (window) opening and tighten the two bolts.

Last thing is to set front and rear up position stops so that window stops at correct level and position. 
 

So there it is.