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Hans

Solex
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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Question is, does it need that? I've never gone big miles between valve jobs. I got the impression stock seats were hardened enough.
  2. What they said. I store three cars every winter. Full tank of Shell ethanol free (most important), Stabil and methyl hydrade gas line anti freeze. Seems to work. I don't know if m10 needs lead additive. I've not had valve problems, but I've read some cars do.
  3. Re above, check the entire system. What about those vents from C pillars to trunk edge?
  4. And the front cover? It needs to be done with the head!
  5. is the front cover getting cut too? current thinking is to reuse head bolts. Per Toby, is block still in car? mileage on motor? You're getting into scope creep territory.
  6. Hence my question about the source. Those studs need to bfe installed with sealant.
  7. So,, to be clear, the car ran fine, you changed the harness, now it doesn't. So either you didn't have all those control boxes, and it's a new electrical problem, or, the new harness doesn't have the wiring mods that fed them?
  8. Like he says, did it run before? Oops, Toby says I can't respond to e21 posts.
  9. Doesnt mean the ignition has too much advance. Start with points.
  10. Are you using the adapter that offsets the sende?r
  11. Did it ever idle well for you? Anything changed since then? What timing curve have you got in the 123? Have you adjusted timing?
  12. Isn't that pipe based bushing tool described in an article in archives/articles?
  13. You said it was speed related. That kinda narrows down the culprits. maybe check pre-load?
  14. How do you know temps are normal. Whine might center support bearing.
  15. What about the sensor? I wouldn't be removing the cap on a hot running motor. Agree on wiring review at both ends, but maybe its telling the truth.
  16. The body is the critical factor. You need t o inspect. Don't expect to be driving in a week.
  17. Parasitic draw (ftom after market devices)?
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