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asifallasleep

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Everything posted by asifallasleep

  1. asifallasleep
    Wait, so are you saying i can remove the sunroof by just removing the interior headline portion under the sunroof? And not the entire headline at least from the front of the car to beyond the sunroof?
  2. asifallasleep
    My steering almost stops at numerous intervals when turning. My mechanic said the box is going and will need to be placed. He quoted me $1250 to rebuild and install. Heck, for that kind of money, if I can, I'll do it myself. Based on the turning problem i mentioned, is this a DYI? What would I be replacing in the unit?
  3. asifallasleep
    My steering almost stops at numerous intervals when turning. My mechanic said the box is going and will need to be placed. He quoted me $1250 to rebuild and install. Heck, for that kind of money, if I can, I'll do it myself. Based on the turning problem i mentioned, is this a DYI? What would I be replacing in the unit?
  4. asifallasleep
    They looked fine so i didn't separate. After removing the instrument cluster i inspected the guts of the fuel/temp unit and all soldering was fine. I snapped all the plugs in place and returned everything and voila, the flutter was gone. Perhaps a loose connection. No more fuel and temp gauge flutter from the turn signals. Thanks everyone.
  5. asifallasleep
    Hey Bill and everyone thanks for your help. Success. Apparently on my cable there's a outer "hose" quite large that removes the cable with two turns. It had slid down the cable and i was turning idk what forever. I slide it up to the top, turned twice and the cable was free. Everything else was a breeze.
  6. asifallasleep
    Thanks buddy. I tried for a few hours this morning and scraped my finger nice on the metal underneath. When i use my turn signal my fuel and temp gauges flutter. They otherwise read accurately but flutter when i use the turn signal. i'm guessing the soldering has come undone ground wise behind the gauge
  7. asifallasleep
    Thanks Bill, I will give it another shot. I get the nuts off fine, but can't seem to get my hand underneath enough to get a good grip on the speedo cable to turn correctly. I'm over 6'1". But from your last post i'm guessing you remove the: big white plug and tach connector from the top of the cluster after moving it forward.
  8. asifallasleep
    Hi Bill, Is order of removal: 1) knurled nuts 2) speedometer 3) fuel gauge 4) odometer cable (is this the same as the big cable a few have mentioned?) I've grabbed something on the odometer cable from underneath but it's difficult to grip and just seems to turn very slowly
  9. asifallasleep
    I have no play in my odometer cable and as a result can't remove the instrument cluster. Also, I can't reach it in the engine bay to detach. Has anyone removed this? From underneath I guess? Or, anyone have an idea of the cost to having my odometer cable replaced with a longer one?
  10. asifallasleep
    she actually took these shots with her iphone. there's a vintage camera app.
  11. asifallasleep
    cool will take a look. What's the typical location of the ground? Near the fuel tank? Thanks. it is near one of the headlight. the problem is the fuel sender is grounded at the same location as the rear ligths, so if it is weak, the ground reference of the sender also gets wrong. My cure for that is to ground the fuel sender alone near the tank itself. At least it cured a slight deviation of the needle when i was flashing or braking. next check the ground at the left of the heater box, and make sure the rear cluster is connected tight. i attached a pic of fuel sending unit. which wire is the ground wire coming from the unit?
  12. asifallasleep
    cool will take a look. What's the typical location of the ground? Near the fuel tank? Thanks. it is near one of the headlight. the problem is the fuel sender is grounded at the same location as the rear ligths, so if it is weak, the ground reference of the sender also gets wrong. My cure for that is to ground the fuel sender alone near the tank itself. At least it cured a slight deviation of the needle when i was flashing or braking. next check the ground at the left of the heater box, and make sure the rear cluster is connected tight. i found the ground location, rear light drivers side in the trunk. everything seemed fine. my gauges read accurate, they flutter in unison when the turn signal is engaged. i started in on removing the instrument cluster and am having issues getting the the odometer cable disconnected. i'm all fingers as i'm tall and can't quite position myself upside down to look up underneath the dash.
  13. asifallasleep
    cool will take a look. What's the typical location of the ground? Near the fuel tank? Thanks.
  14. asifallasleep
    cool retro setting on girlfriends camera creates a vintage polaroid effect.
  15. asifallasleep
    yup, the lime green '02 fifth pic from the top is mine. had a blast and met some really cool people.
  16. asifallasleep
    I'm guessing a faulty ground as when i use my turn signals the fuel and temp gauges flicker? Hoping i don't have to remove the dash to find this.
  17. asifallasleep
    He was most likely talking about the (2) rear vents under the decklid. There are (2) oval-shaped holes. I believe sunroof-equipped cars have plugs, standard cars have a snorkel-like duct for flow-thru ventilation of the cabin. oh you're right, i was talking about the in the rear trunk. i'll check on that. thanks.
  18. asifallasleep
    ran into a guy at bimmerfest yesterday who said these seals are not used in sunroof versions of '02's. i forget the reason. i think i may be ok with the fuel sending unit O ring replacement.
  19. asifallasleep
    Yesterday I noticed some moisture around the fuel sending unit. My suspicions were confirmed today when I filled up my tank and saw gas seeping out the tank into the trunk from around the fuel sending unit. Today I replaced the O ring around the fuel sending unit. I think that may have finally solved the fuel odor in the cabin. Thanks for all your help everyone.
  20. asifallasleep
    Yesterday I noticed some moisture around the fuel sending unit. My suspicions were confirmed today when I filled up my tank and saw gas seeping out the tank into the trunk from around the fuel sending unit. Today I replaced the O ring around the fuel sending unit. I think that may have finally solved the fuel odor in the cabin. Thanks for all your help everyone.
  21. asifallasleep
    I just bought a 1974 2002 and am starting to spend money to get her right. I used to work on my cars in the 80's but have since had a lot of modern cars that i always took to a mechanic. Well, I just paid $1K fixing a headlight short, replacing fuel hose, replacing: 2 tie rods, center drag link, 2 ball joints, and a front end alignment. For the price of labor and parts at a repair shop, i can replace everything and do the work myself for a fraction of what they charge. Crazy. Next up is sorting out the pesky fuel odor (replacing sending unit seal and then maybe fuel tank), replacing warped front rotors, finding and replacing steering box, replacing front bbs rims which are not true, replacing blower motor and oh yeah, top of sunroof gets scratched up every time i use it. Some of these I hear are difficult by i'm going to research and give them a shot. I just joined this site and love it already. I wanna thank everyone for helping with my questions.
  22. asifallasleep
    dude you so rock. there was a leaky fuel line under the car that the shop repaired but i still smell fumes. i opened the trunk when i got hope and found some residue around the fuel sending unit. going to replace the seal today. If the fumes remain going to tackle the tank next. i saw a new one online for $100 can't remember the site. Stealership has them for over $400.
  23. asifallasleep
    has anyone replaced their gas tank? difficult job? did you buy a new tank and where from? how much? or did you find someone to re-seal it? where and how much? thanks.
  24. asifallasleep
    Anyone have to replace or repair their sunroof? Mine is scratching up my roof top something horrible during the cranking and uncranking.
  25. asifallasleep
    going to fahuna in the valley tomorrow because of gas fumes in the cabin. eeeek. hopefully it's one of these not too complicated things and i'll get the car back same day: 1. Fuel tank leaking, generally around the seam. 2. Fuel filler boot cracked and letting fumes out. 3. Fuel line(s) under or in the car leaking. 4. Something in the engine bay (hoses, lines, filter, fittings, carb, injection) letting fumes or raw fuel out. 5. Vapor canister or return line not hooked up or leaking. 5. Gaskets around the fuel sender or fuel pick-up rotten and leaking fumes. (This is the most likely) O ring for sender is 16 11 1 744 369 Twist in gasket 16 12 1 105 332 Bolt in gasket 16 12 1 110 598 7. Fuel lines from tank to rigid lines cracked deteriorated and leaking fuel or fumes
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