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rdeeble

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Everything posted by rdeeble

  1. 1 day left to bid on a * Left Grille * Right Grille * Kidney (all silver, early deep-bucket type from a 1600 - great condition) & a 3pc dash (non chrome) in need of restoration no reserve, lots of watchers but no bids yet... http://motors.shop.ebay.com/rdeeble/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg= -robert
  2. could you have stripped the threads on the trans? Its soft metal so its not hard to strip if you over tighten the bolt . Or perhaps you just didn't get the cable in far enough before tightening - that was my problem earlier. -rd
  3. holy smokes!! Afraid to ask is right... ive got my work cut out. Any tips on closing this roof prior to ripping out the headliner (was hoping i didn't have to do that right away)? BY the way my2002tii.com is an amazing resource! -rd
  4. rdeeble

    2002 seats.

    feel free to email me Don my addy is rdeeble (at) yahoo (dot) com. Do you think the vinyl can be reconditioned back to life or by dry do mean its history?? How are the springs and horse hairs on the seats? The carpet is new and only a few months old. I just bought it for my daily drive then all of suddenly landed on a new 02 that im going to switch my energy to restore to (it has brown interior so your seats would be perfect). I will be in the LA area next week (although i am flying in). rd rd
  5. For those of you still reading this post (or those of you who pull it up in a search). Here is a successful end of story.... So the speedo and odo was no longer working but I was able to fix both with the help of some instructions from Curt Ingraham. Here is the speedo fix... Here's a quick how-to on fixing the axial speedo shaft play. 1. At http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/72/32/ perform steps 1 through 5. 2. Remove the two screws that hold the back of the speedo housing to the speedo frame (lower piece in photo SpeedoInputHousing.jpg) and carefully remove the housing. (Some other disassembly might be required to get to this point.) 3. See photo SpeedoMagnetWheel.jpg. Gently squeeze the magnet wheel back onto the speedo input shaft to eliminate the axial play in the shaft. Leave just enough play for smooth rotation of the shaft. 4. Glue the wheel to the shaft as described earlier. 5. Reassemble and test. *********************** and here is a play by play of the odometer fix: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/72/32/ both of these took some time and a few redo but they totally worked and the speedo, odo and trip counter are all working like a charm!
  6. Hi folks. Apparently I am now a sunroof owner... well non working sunroof owner actually. I just bought my second 76' 02 to use as new body donor for a restore (will post pics soon). I am assessing my purchase and have a few questions. What are the basics for inspecting and fixing the crank? The roof is closed and does not open. In its closed position the slide roof isn't flush with the body roof in the rear and their are some scratch marks in the corner where it rubbed up against the roof. Can I inspect or fix the mechanical operation of the sunroof without taking out the headliner (which is actually in decent shape)? Drains - I will check tomorrow to see if they have been redirected from the rocker panels. I did notice upon transporting the car in the ran, that the carpet soaked up behind the passenger seat (the floor pan looks great from underneath the car). I will pull the floorpan plug to make sure it drains. My first step after assessing overall is to pull carpet, check the floor for rust. How important do you all feel it is to take up the insulation goo on the floor in regards to prepping for paint? I plan on por 15 any visable spots on the floor and underside prior to taking to the sprayer.
  7. rdeeble

    2002 seats.

    Would you consider trading for a midnight blue unused carpet set? I would also like to see the seats where are you located?
  8. I have an early silver grille and kidney from a 69' 1600 for sale now on ebay. The grilles are in good condition with new reflectors and the kidney is in good shape as well - are all being sold separately. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/rdeeble/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg= If anyone here bids and wins the auction please mention you heard about it here and I will donate 10% to the FAQ or give you a break on shipping.
  9. I would love a few pics - thanks for the tip... i already took the cluster apart so im getting pretty familiar with it these days. -rd
  10. hey so im trying to get my speedometer working on my 76 2002. I found that the cable was damaged so I replaced the upper lower pieces with a single cable (btw can I remove the box or does it have another purpose?). Now with the cable installed the speedo goes crazy - 0 to 200 mph just pulling out of the driveway (no im not flooring it). If it werent for the pin the speedo would spin like a fan. Does that sound like a bad speedo or an installation problem?? rd
  11. for those of you following this thread jgerock is correct... this mystery came up earlier and some interesting threads that occurred can be found here: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,614942/highlight,/#614942 http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,331384/highlight,early+later+clusters/ in one of the threads the answer to my question 1 seems to be provided by Curt Ingraham: So for question 1... according to folks on the faq BMW made an additional terminal on 04 cars to meet US seatbelt requirements but discontinued this feature the following year on 75-76 cars probably because it was such a pain. The 75-76 models still had the additional terminal on the back of the fuel/temp gauge but they just were not hooked up. Now on to question 2... i was a little worried i may have fried this part of the circuity with that bulb with backwards polarity or something. Turns out the oil sensor went kaput seconds after installing the cluster. Double checked the connection between sensor wire to the cluster by running a ground to the sensor wire. O light came on nice and bright. Made sure the switch wasn't suffering a grounding problem by running the same ground to the switch with sensor wire back on - no o light. Time to replace the sensor. thanks to Curt Ingrahm for helping me trouble shoot this.
  12. i knew i could count on you for that one Jack! thanks for the translation it makes my ocd a little easier. now on to question one and two... anyone???
  13. i have a 76 and have taken out the instrument cluster to replace all the bulbs and I have come up with some mysteries on the fuel/temperature gauge. First question... In looking at the fuel/temp gauge there is a contact terminal, in the back near where the handbrake light is, that isn't connected to anything (and no obvious dangling wire in my dash cavity). I'm stumped as to what is supposed to be connected here (see pic)? Second question... in plugging this gauge back in and turning the ignition key to test the bulbs, my O light suddenly stopped working. It was initially working fine but while experimenting with different bulbs i put in a LED and it stopped working altogether. I put all the regular bulbs back, made sure none of them were burned - but still no O light. Could I have fry'd the circuitry with that LED? thoughts anyone? And while we are at it... why did the good folks at BMW label the flasher light "B" and the high beam light "F" ? -rd
  14. ha! pictures coming... let me get that instrument panel back in first. as to elaborating on the shoe glue question... nothing fancy just goo'd the tears back together to keep it from getting worse. -rd
  15. chapter one: wash the damn thing. chapter two: replace all the trim that fell off over the years with ebay/faq purchases. chapter three: degreased the engine till you could eat on it. chapter four: painted the stock wheels with aluminum paint & replaced emblems. chapter five: bought a carpet from esty - then realize my floor pan is rusted out. bought a dash cover to hide dash cracks, shoe glued vinyl rips in seats and headliner chapter six: ordered a bunch of missing nick nacks... door latch rubber, brake and clutch pedal covers, visor latches. chapter seven: got those dingy pink brake & run lights working - Cleaned all contacts. replaced thermal flasher with electric, put in red LEDs on brake and run lights (full spectrum so they light up more of the lense). Sprayed light housing silver and glued mirror sheets to better pop the whole lens. chapter eight: cleaned dome and door sensor contacts. Got the dome light working correctly (passenger door still is a bit iffy). Neighbors think im a bit nutty opening and closing the doors constantly at night. Fixed wipers, installed vdo bottle, cleaned out the squirters and bam! its like a frigin water pistol. chapter nine: took out instrument cluster, cleaned it, getting new bulbs from a friend, getting new speedo cable from Blunt, and dreaming up some new possibilities for the fake lame wood panel bmw resorted to on late models. chapter ten: redid trunk. cleaned it top to bottom. found a ton of water in the spare tire well drilled a single hole to keep it from rusting. Took out trunk boards and recovered them with new vinyl on clearance at craft store. Found a big rust bubble under rear window where the rubber shrunk exposing metal - caulked it with black silicone. chapter eleven: (my amps go to eleven) found another 76' with an almost rustless core garaged in salem on ebay for $530. Repeat chapters 1-10
  16. there's a very small screw in the passenger side end, at the base that is removed to take the cover off, then the base attaches to the dash with 2 small screws ahh ha... who would of thought to look at it from the passenger seat!
  17. hey folks... this is an older post so I hope someone is still reading but HOW DO YOU TAKE THAT THING OFF??? I can tell there are two screws that hold it down but I cant figure out how to get to them. I've been looking it up on the archives but I don't really know what to call the dang thing in the first place so my searches haven't come up with anything useful. so what do we call this thing and how do we take it off?
  18. i have a 76. The speedo wasn't working so I took out the cluster, drove and the cable doesn't turn. Went under the car and the lower cable was torn loose from the trany (oh and shit, my passenger floor pan is completely rusted through) So now I can buy a new lower cable and make an easy replace but who knows whether the upper cable works or the box... wondering if I should just buy the long cable and bypass the 76 upper/lower/box issue??? How tricky is it to replace the upper cable anyway? floor pan? rd
  19. hey all I've taken out my 76 dash cluster to clean up and replace the bulbs. But while I am at it I would like to investigate why my speedometer and odometer stopped working (years ago). I've looked in the archives but didn't see anything specific to both speedometer and odometer. I did check the shaft on the speedometer and it appears to work correctly. Its just that it doesn't move at all when driving. Im wondering since both speedometer & odometer don't work if that would indicate a cable problem... how to I check to verify? rd
  20. WOW! this is great thanks for all the responses. First off I already decided to use a full flat trailer as the dolly method seems a little sketchy. I figured it would be easy to grab a uhaul in oregon but now im rethinking. I will tell you this about Uhaul. They are a pain in the ass. When I inquired about renting a trailer they said no problem then asked what I would be towing it with. I told them a Ford Explore - THEY RESPONDED THEY WOULD NEVER RENT ME ANYTHING WITH AN EXPLORER BECAUSE FORD HAS NEVER APOLOGIZED FOR THE FIRESTONE/ EXPLORER INCIDENT - can you believe that??? They said it was company policy and they could work it out with any other car even a different kind of Ford and it had nothing to do with safety it just simply a corporate feud. 12 years ago I drove across the entire country at least 4 times touring w/ my band in Ford explorer and uhaul trailer... thanks for the tips!
  21. just bought a nice looking project car in Oregon (its body straight and ready for paint) and need to get down there to transport it to seattle. Any advice on transport? uhaul has a flat tow dolly (4 wheels) for $60 a day that hooks to a tow hitch. The project car has glass removed so im thinking maybe i can tape it up with thick cardboard and a strap a car cover over it. any advice would be greatly appreciated. rd
  22. Anyone got some stock wheels they need to get rid of?
  23. well while we are at it Dubois you might as well post some before and after pics... (LOL). as to the tii... I don't really know the ethics of it all or how the collector value issues are affected by a car that had been hit that bad, but I am totally impressed at the restoration. Its great to think a car can be restored that well from such rocky beginnings. Now I suppose if it was a flood car that would be a bit scary, I wonder if it was totally dipped for rust. I am of course I am a bit biased as my car was fjord blue and its just amazing to see what color should really look like!
  24. This is a 3pc dash from a 1968 1602. These were the ones with the hazard switch on the top of the dash in the corner. I was going to sell it to Hplug to use as a core to do a recover but after some pics back and forth we thought we should check to see if anyone on the FAQ could use one of theses early model dashes first. The sale price is $200 + shipping. Here is the a down on its condition bottom= one small crack and one very small blemish. The silver control plates need to be touched up with paint where the hot and cold arrows went. Middle= three fairly sizable cracks near the heater vents Top= the top is chipped in two locations. I made a point to take a close photo of this for you.
  25. not sure if this would be helpful to anyone but I saw an add for 320i seats on the free kashless site. http://seattle.kashless.org/free/320i-bmw-front-seats-black?l=Seattle%2C+WA&q=bmw
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