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johns1974

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  1. johns1974
    Hamada, Did you ever get your car back from the tuner who was doing your carburetor? How did it turn out? I'm interested in any details. Feel free to e-mail me off board if you don't want to post the details here. TIA, -john
  2. johns1974
    so my gauge is pretty accurate, then... (both the IR and the gauge in the car)... thanks for that reference. I'll have to get the car to someone who knows more than me... Not Tough! Thanks, -john
  3. johns1974
    I'm still a moron and the car is still running hot and i'm curious what anyone thinks with this new bit of knowledge: I bought an IR Thermometer and when the gauge in the car is just barely under the red, the IR says 212 at the top of the radiator (next to the cap) and 201 at the head where the top hose comes out... my extreme ignorance is about to show... are those temps truly indicative of an overheating car? Am I in a dangerous place? Again, there's no leaks anywhere, the oil is good (no white foaminess at all), not a puff of smoke to be seen, no knocks, no pings, the coolant level is topped off and the coolant looks like an ok color... turning the heater on has little, if any, effect what next, if anything? Thank you all so much for helping me understand this, -john
  4. johns1974
    Dumb questions of the day courtesy of your local FAQ Board numb nut: I just got an infrared thermometer (cheap at harbor freight) to more accurately diagnose my overheating problem. Where, exactly, do I point the laser to get the relevant reading? (Radiator hose? Block? Top of radiator? All of the above?) BTW, If some one says something like "up your ass" we might have to go to blows... HA! What is the temperature reading I'm supposed to get? I believe there is a 71deg thermostat in it, if that makes a difference. What temps should make me really worry? I'd love someone provide something like this (I'm obviously making up the ranges as I have no idea!): 150-170 cool 170-180 optimal 180-200 warm 200-210 hot over 210 defcon 5 And final dumb question o' the day: What is the coolant to H2O ratio that seems to work best? Thanks to all who are willing to help! -john
  5. johns1974
    for those who are interested here's what I got accomplished... Just because my gut told me that the last gas fill up might have been the culprit, I drained the tank down to about 1/4 tank (using the old fashioned siphoning method) and then refilled with 5 gallons of chevron 91 octane. Then I took all of your advice about an "italian tune-up" and went for a spirited drive... Idle is much better now and actually holds where it is supposed to! The "PFFT" sounds that existed under engine braking are also much reduced. But it did get warm again (about a 1/4 inch from the red)... so that is something i'll be looking into... maybe a radiator swap from Mr. Ingraham is in my immediate future. (a search of the archives tells me they are the best, by far... I'll be asking you all for any tips tricks to this but I'm hoping it is a bolt-for-bolt transplant and not too complicated) I'll try to dig a little deeper as I have time next weekend but I feel OK getting back and forth to work this upcoming week. Thanks to all for your generous support of this complete rookie. And maybe there is something to be said for buying good gas from the same station with these old cars. Thanks again, -john
  6. johns1974
    I have a 38/38 so I don't know if that solenoid is the answer... Does a 38/38 have one? I'll look into that. It does feel, to me, like a carb/fuel issue but I need to learn more about the way distributers work... I'll be tinkering this weekend and hope I don't screw things up too bad! I live in fear of making things worse, especially if it is something super simple. Thanks!
  7. johns1974
    c.d., I need to take an auto shop course (or a 1,000) to even grasp what you are referring to most of the time!! I don't know the first thing about carb jets, mixture screws, or floats. I can tell you: there is no over flowing fuel, the radiator is level, full, and still a good color there is no foaminess in the oil filler cap the fan belt is tight and there are no leaks, at all, from the water pump or anywhere else. BTW... I smile everytime I read your posts because everytime I read one, I'm reminded how much I wish I knew! But I'm like a 3rd grader talking to a professor emeritus...
  8. johns1974
    thanks, c.d. Now here comes the inevitable series of "sincere but stupid questions of the year": How do I "unslip" it? Which way do I turn the distributer? How far? With the engine running or no? (I'd have to get someone to hold the throttle open for me, i suppose) Can I just grab it and twist, or do I need to loosen a screw (or other similar doodad) that might hold it in place? FWIW, I don't have a timing light (wouldn't know how to read it if I had one)... For anyone willing to show the patience to hold my hand through this, THANK YOU!
  9. johns1974
    PREFACE-- Please excuse my ignorance on what most of you will likely consider basic stuff/symptoms... After many miles of great running, I just filled up the tank and now the car won't hold an idle at any temperature. It just drops stone dead. It doesn't even try to stay lit. Cold, Warm or Hot it's all the same... Also, the car is running quite a bit hotter than usual and getting very near the red after 20 minutes or so regardless of speed/traffic/airtemp. Also, there is a loud series of "PPFFFFFTTTT" sounds (almost like tiny backfires) that continuously pop whenever the car is under engine braking, particularly at higher RPMs The car still runs very strong and smooth when my foot is in it. It's a real strong motor, e21 head, 38/38 weber, electronic ignition (crane), and all new filters all around (fuel, air etc.) It was running great before my last fill up... Could all this be caused by a bad tankful of gas? Does it sound like a carburetor issue? Engine timing? I'm at a loss as to why this would all happen at once when none of these sysmptoms existed 2 days ago... Would a can of octane booster help (if it is a fuel issue)? Any guidance on where to start would be ever so much appreciated. Thanks
  10. johns1974
    I went to 3 hardware stores and then to the BMW Dealer in Calabasas and they said that they can't get key blanks for my '74... The dealer suggested I buy a whole new ignition because that comes with a key... Yeah, I'll get right on that... My car has one of those wacky folding keys and if it breaks, I'm doomed. Any thoughts on where to get a new blank so I can get some copies cut? TIA... BTW... Anyone know the history of the folding key? Why was that made? What's it for? What's the benefit? TIA!
  11. johns1974
    ----Warning---- This is a pet peeve of mine so I get a little worked up over it... If you are going to start a thread complaining about someone's "grammer," for God's sake spell the fuc*ing word correctly! It is "GRAMMAR" not "GRAMMER" Lesson for the day: The umbrella of grammar does not cover spelling. Grammar covers (among other things) syntax, verb tense issues, dangling modifiers, pronouns, and even some rules of punctuation that refer directly to clarity of the message. Spelling is neither "punctuation" nor "grammar." Misspelling is misspelling, not poor grammar. I alight my high horse now...
  12. johns1974
    anybody out there a member of the bmwcca? is it worth the $40? i'm in los angeles so any specific info regarding the la chapter would be appreciated... i wonder if the m6 and 760i people look down on the old schoolers...? probably not if you rolled up in a 507... TIA
  13. johns1974
    sorry to hijack this for a second... Hamada, where is your car getting the work done? TIA
  14. johns1974
    so when i'm driving my giant dodge truck and I see an '02 on the road i give 'em a wave and the drivers think i'm nuts... is there some kind of hand wave/signal we should use to let each other know we're out there even though we might not be driving our '02 at the time?? Living in LA, i don't want to make some random gangster sign and get jacked, but if there is a "secret sign" for us 2002 owners, let me know! If there isn't, let's start one! Don't most fraternities have a secret handshake, after all?
  15. johns1974
    put "G-SPOT" on it... i've been looking for that button for years or connect it to set of those train/locomotive horns and scare the crap out of every little turd who gets in your way!! just my $.02...
  16. johns1974
    can you say... "2002 FAQ CAR OF THE MONTH?" maybe of the decade!! Great job!
  17. johns1974
    "VIN 4209559, 5-speed CR trans, only 64,400 miles. All original except for BBS 3-pc wheels. Really excellent condition, cosmetically and mechanically. $46,000" pix on their site with the prices of tii's and even really clean regular '02s approaching $30k, doesn't this seem reasonable? Not mine, no affiliation... never even seen a turbo in real life!! (Hope to someday!) Please excuse my ignorance, but are the turbos "that much" faster/better than the tii's? Are they a bear to maintain in great running order? Curious in learning more...
  18. johns1974
    only deal with dr. peter sliskovich aka the coupe king if you want to be treated fairly and with the utmost respect. he's a stand up guy by all accounts but if you are looking for discount pricing he's not your best bet. i don't know if he actually turns the wrenches anymore but he has a crew of talented guys. his son eric handles all the specialty tricks like stereos, alarms, etc... keep in mind, too, that this is just a major hobby for him. he's a practicing medical doctor. he's an honest guy who just loves these cars. but he's not a "dealer" or "officially recognized business" that i know of... i'm a big fan of his but feel free to e-mail me if you'd like.
  19. johns1974
    while not a wealthy guy, my yearly salary would be able to cover buying one now or waiting... in any case, i'm a tightwad and maintain a low overhead! thanks for all the well wishes and thoughts... i find myself seeking a lot more advice now that my brain is constsntly preoccupied by these three females!
  20. johns1974
    So my wife and I were graced with twin girls nine months ago... And as I was lining up to sell my 1974 '02 that I've owned for over 20 years (it was my first car) I had an epiphany: When my girls turn 16, my car will be exactly 50 years old! So now I've decided to keep it and even get another '74 so I can give my girls similar 50 year old 2002s. In terms of pure speculation and fantasy, I'm wondering what you all think... Assuming you had the good fortune to be able to purchase (and had space to keep) the 2nd '02, would you buy the second car now and store it (and/or drive it)? Or would you wait and try to buy a decent car in 15 years? FWIW I want both cars to be in great shape when I hand them over...
  21. johns1974
    PREFACE---forgive me... this might be a dumb question to some of you! When does a car cease to have the benefit of "matching numbers" status? Is it just the block that determines whether the car is "matching numbers"? In other words, can I replace the head, valves, valve cover, pistons, even the transmission etc etc and still have a matching #'s car? Is it really that big a deal in the long run? Assuming everything else is equal, is a car with the original block with a 5-sp and e21 head "worth more" than the same car with a different block? TIA for sharing any thoughts...
  22. johns1974
    Here are some of the things I have seen there on the last sunday of any given month in the past 3 years: (just off my quick memory) Ferraris - Enzos, Dinos, 308s, 599s, 550s, Testarossas, F40, Scagliettis, Daytonas, Mondials... Porsche - 356s, every 911 configuration, 928, Carrera GTs (husband and wife's pair!), Spyders, Boxters etc... Benz - A couple gullwings, A lot of tricked out/gizmo cars, SLR Lambos - Countach, Gallardo, Murcielago, Muira, Diablo GT Plus, many ford gt40s, muscle cars, Model T's, Model A's, Packards, Old Caddys, a Nash Metro, Woodys, STi's, etc... There really is something for everyone... Except 2002's! Only seen a couple and nothing too special... This crowd loves the $$$ Cars. On any last Sunday you'll have about 50 cars there. Maybe you'll get lucky and see one of your faves.
  23. johns1974
    not mine no affiliation etc... http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/665844944.html
  24. johns1974
    Aw shucks... You're gonna make me blush... Thanks for the insights. i'm certainly not thinking that the 2002 is a car that i should purchase to make money with. As was said, the "value" is in owning this car and getting to drive it. I've had my '74 over 20 years and been through a lot with it. It's the first car I ever bought... many first dates, etc etc... that's worth a lot to me. It's not worth a damn thing to anyone else, so i know my car is probably not "worth" $1500 in the real world. But here's my question... There's a complete and total ground up, frame off revival of a '74 available in my area for $25k. But there isn't a single piece on this car that rolled off the assembly line with it when it was born. It has pieces from probably 100 different 2002's in it. It's no hot rod, it's a period correct effort but it's as far from it's own DNA as pamela anderson's chest. In your opinion does that hurt it's "value?" as a 2002-o-phile do you like "real" ones or "fake" ones? Agreed they can both be fun! I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are... Thanks for entertaining and educating me
  25. johns1974
    First off, thanks very much to everyone who has been kind enough to answer my various questions. I learn something new every day I read this board! In the big picture, i realize that the value of any 2002 is whatever someone will pay for it. But is it "better" if a car has matching numbers and is mostly stock? Or are you more likely to pay more for a car that has recaros, rebuilt motor, suspension tweaks etc etc. To the bimmerphiles which is more desirable and/or worth more? The COTM on this site is truly unbelievable to me. Just an absolute work of art. Maybe the most beautiful '02 I have seen. And yet other people might be less than enthusiastic because it isn't bone "stock." I guess what I'm asking for discussion is this: What would an '02 have to possess to be worth $10k, $20k, or even $50k in your mind?
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