felix_666

Cool thanks

wil _ richards at yahoo com au

C.D. you should have a look in that link you posted. As I said, I looked extensively, it only has one value for all the torques I require, which vary in size.

@ Tommy

Thanks, I have used a cap headed bolt which is 12.9 for one of the right mount to sub bolts, do I need to torque it higher?

I have searched extensively, checked the faq/blue book and haynes, but nothing. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough but I just can't find them, or maybe strange lingo?

Seems to be about 9 nuts all up, left and right.

Need torque values for:

two for right mount to subframe. M8

right mount to bracket M8

three for right bracket to engine M10

left mount to subframe M10

left mount to bracket M10

bracket to engine M10

Thanks.

Does anyone know the hardware used in the above picture. The four screws (and washers??) that keep the rod strtaight?

Guessing M5.5/6 x 20-30mm fillister scew with wave weashers?

Can't find it in the etk.

Yes I'm pedantic.

Thanks.

Any chance you want to share where you got it from. I too need a hub for my petri wheel.

thanks.

Ok, so we have some confusion. The part you have taken photos of is the speedo gear housing, still available from BMW. The part I'm interested in is a spacer that is on the left in the photo. It is pressed into the end of the housing, as orientated in the photo. What you can't see is the seal which sits behind the spacer on a lip, the machining you were referring to.

Maybe you don't have the part either? It has been NLA for some time. I think I'm going to have a go at making one if no one has any further details.

Any chance of a follow up on this?

I've guessed that these suckers have the following dimensions:

8.1mm high x 16mm O.D. x 4.1mm thick giving an I.D. of 7.8mm.

My sample is pretty shot. I'm guessing those number are meant to be even.

Made some progress.

Decided to run with the manifold, plug up the extra holes.

Pulled the carbs apart, some of the jets have been messed with so I'm going to attempt to overhaul them.

Ordered up the parts for the water bypass.

Going to rebuild my original dizzy.

Try to get it running.

Then install the crane later.

Thanks for all the help.

Use what you have, use the water bypass or not ,your choice, block up the holes you dont need or get them welded up , depending on your linkage you may have to drill and tap a hole , mechanical adv dizzy as you will not get a lot of vacuum.

Hey Tim what did you do with the rocker cover breather output, plumb it back into the filters, can't see from your picture?

Don't forget about new bolts, longer ones for the 228mm (i think).

I like the idea of the 215 for street use as I imagine it requires a little less work.

If it was me (always a good start), I would do the ignition first. Make sure that is sweet before changing anything else. Just blank off the vac ports leaving only the booster connection. Run a mech advance only distributor (make the change with the Crane) and keep it simple.

The coolant plumbing is more about solving the issue about interconnecting the heater hose with the water pump. This is normally done with the tii or 320i water bypass pipe. If you have already bypassed the manifold then you certainly don't need to 'un-bypass' it. If you sill have it connected via the downdraft manifold then this facility might help. My guess is that the hotspot will be too localised and might effect charge density between cylinders (though how much may be academic).

Appreciate your thoughts, but just to get us all on the same page, here is my engine, full resto, nothing is running:

I see most people who use the Warneford manifold remove the plumbing, I'm happy to run a bypass setup, i think IE have a kit, not sure if it includes the water divider.

I think the divider can be pulled from certain e21's and e30's, part number 11531267535, not sure of the years though.

My head is beginning to spin...

I currently have a warneford manifold and suitable linkage kit from IE for the manifold, not sure how linkage kits vary, mounting orientation?

I kinda wanna do this once, properly. Should I stick with what I've got, or change the manifold? My concern is that given all those extra holes, the PO was having a hard time setting it up, I dont want to deal with the same problems. Thoughts? I guess though the manifold shouldn't make much difference in setting it up, apart from space. Maybe they didn't have the right dizzy?

Need I worry about the coolant plumbing given I live in non-snow environment?

I also have a crane that I was going to install once I got the engine running as i thought it would be too difficult to install the crane before I got the engine running. This leads me onto the distributor which is causing my headache to grow.

Too many questions.... need some weekend relief. Thanks to those helping me nut this out.

@toby

Given I'm doing a full resto, and starting from scratch with everything, do you think to get the thing running it would be easier just to plug them up and maybe worry about them later?

hopefully there is oil in that diff you are pushing around.

by design an lsd resists turning. the halfshafts are partially locked together. for the car to turn either the diff clutches have to slip or one of the tires has to slip. the slipping can create a little noise. hard to tell if the noise you are describing is coming from diff, cv joints, drive shaft, spring, etc.

Sweet info, kinda the answer i was looking for.

Diff def has oil as I pulled out the half empty bottle of redline xxx fluid last night, not to mention its weeping, there is no oil on the ground, just a film at the bottom of the diff.

I lay on my creeper, head under the car whilst someone pushed it, no tailshaft in place, I'm almost positive it was coming from the diff.

My only other thought was that I hadn't correctly built the half shafts, using wrong cv joints, or omitting the spacers. I'm nearly certain I used 320 inboard and 02 outboard to match the holes/bolts.

Would the half shafts bolt up if I used the wrong thickness spacers?

Not sure of the year of the diff.

Thanks for your time.

I Have the same manifold on my car, great for LHD cars as the runners are short , to help clear booster, I still removed my booster to get longer ram tubes in. I like the water bypass piece too. Just plug the extra 1/4 pipe fittings & go for it.

I'm confused, I thought these manifolds were known to be long, therefore intruding on booster space, not short? Or are there several Warneford manifolds? RHD cars have boosters in the same spot as far I know.

Trying to get my head around the manifold i have and what else I need for my conversion.

Its clearly a warneford, but has several extra attachments, see pics, they seem like they've been retro fitted.

I have been following the great faq write up by Forza on DCOE conversions:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,322335/

I have weber 40's, bavarian fuel pump, linkage kit from IE for the manifold, original choke, fuel lines.

I'm trying to work out what all the extra holes are for??

Most other DCOE manifolds don't seem to have the plumbing for coolant, as this does, is it simply set up the same the stock manifold, meaning I don't need a water bypass setup?

I'm leaning towards another manifold given the space confinements this manifold creates unless there is an advantage to this particular manifold.

Need help on deciding.

Thanks for any input.

Cool, thanks for the info. That is the kit I was referring to, I understand the IE downpipe wont work, because it's different from LHD to RHD because of the steering box. cheers

Has anyone bought and installed the new stainless system (center collector and muffler) into a RHD car.

I understand the two-to-one collector wont fit, as indicated on the site, and I emailed ireland who seemed to think it will work, but would like to hear from someone hear.

Shipping costs being as much as the item means a return would be devastating. I've been quoted around the 1K mark for a local equivalent, hence the international buying.

If any locals (Aus) have an exhaust shop to recommend i'd be interested.

Thanks.

Nice write up, I think I need to pull mine as it's weeping a little, gasket only, no sealant, bummer.

Sounds like you might know a bit about the LSD's. I installed one in my project which seems to groan/pop a little when pushing it around the garage, is this normal or should they be dead quiet? Internally it looked fine, no pitting/scoring/worn gears when i installed it. Car isn't drivable so all i can do is push it about to test, or pull it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Random updates, no real order.

Can anyone can tell me why this overider isn't sitting flush? The other side is perfect...

Nice 02, a pretty rare set up I imagine in Aus.

There are a few places to get parts, such a panels. I would recommend Ash Sprague at Brighton BMW, 02 enthusiast and Bmw spare parts guy. Particularly helpful for big/precious items where you don't want to have to worry about shipping, however, you do pay a premium, as with most things in Australia, supply/demand etc.

That said, Steve at Blunt industries in the States is pretty sharp with his prices, quotes within 24 hours, and reasonably priced shipping. He has a stellar record with helping me with parts.

wallothnesch (google them) are pretty good, but you need to spend a bit before it makes it worth while. Although with our dollar on parade with the US it makes it hard to go past Blunt.

Also there is the local 02 Register which is helpful/friendly way of finding secondhand (sometimes new) parts.

All the best.

Sweeto burrito

I'm aware they have them, but with their shipping and all the rest it wil be cheaper

For me to machine them up, could still measure it up, it would be very helpful, not only for myself but others too . Thanks.

Excellent!

I guess the height, thickness, inside/outside diameter, hopefully they all square up. Also, are they spilt or solid? If your caliper measures in mm that would be great.

Thanks.

Walloth has the bushings in stock... I am ordering a couple of things from them. They are 7.90 euro if anyone wants to tag along.

Any chance you have one of the bushes to measure, height, i.d. etc? As they are NLA I'm guessing I'll have to make a substitute. Thanks.