felix_666

i have the late 69 1600 so mine came with the short neck version. also when i bought my car it came with a rear sway bar.

i have also seen that you could take the 320 halfshafts and put 2002 outboard cv joints on and that would work. thats what it says to do in the BMW '02 restoration guide by mike macartney. has anyone tried that?

works for me.

Did the opposite: 02 half shafts with e21 cv's on the inside and spacers on the outside with the according bolts.

Unlesss you have the e21 79 half shafts you need spacers, because without spacers it will work but the slack is taken up which is needed for when the wheel travels up and down.

Dave at Ardvarc sold me mine, $55 i think, he's very knowledgable on the topic.

best i got

Very clean. Dry ice?

Finished the rear sub this week, pretty satisfying, a little dusty though.

Upgraded parts include: Urethane all round, LSD 3.91, 22mm swaybars, sub mount inserts and end links.

Thicker 10mm bolts and rubber for the end links.

I've found that on two of the three 02's i've worked on, these have either bent or even broken in one case. With the added stress from the urethane, i figured that the bolts might need bulking up.

After being at the painters since January, this is all that has happened.

A little frustrating given how much effort I'm putting into to the project. Going to have words some time this week to try and sort it out.

Basically the bonnet and boot have been taken back to metal and the rest of the car has become a duster.

Well, as usual, it never stops, the painting that is. I was going to leave it but i what the hell.

How many people have good photos of other peoples cars?? I know i don't have photos of my mates cars.

But more importantly there needs to be more incentive, like the car spends the month of the front page, that would look sweet.

Yeah righto. I just couldn't visualize how the spring would become so compressed. But it does make sense, they wont be fitted properly for some time (car isn't back from the painters yet).

Thanks for your help, i think you might have saved a bit of grief.

Cheers

I bought these (installed cable) from W&N a little while ago, and they don't seem to add up. It appears that the spring at the brake end is too long - they go another good inch out the hole to the right of picture to the back of the plates.

Anyone know whats up? It'll be a hassle to return them so i though i'd just cut the springs to the right length.

Cheers.

Surely someone else has their 2 cents to add?? I'd appreciate anything.

Cheers

Hot dang thats a good looking heater top, and spray can cap to match??

The cable is as far out as posible on the lever control part.

I thought maybe the RHD versions are positioned differently to LHD considering the controls would be in different spots.

According to my dashboard, my heat is on when the lever is to the left, but this could simply mean the controls are flipped, not sure though.

thanks for the pic

I need help and/or pictures of a later valve at the fully open position and closed position with the cable attached to the valve's arm, please.

I have looked through ALL the previous threads (including the FAQ) and don't seem to have enough information. My problem is that i took everything apart and lost all my before shots on my camera.

My cables seem short but came from a functioning heater, they only allow a very small amount of travel (for the valve arm) at the moment.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. (And i don't have an arrow but it is around the right way)

Also it's a RHD car if you think that makes any difference

cable is fully out, fresh air flap closed, lever fully across to the right.

cable half way, valve half way, lever half way.

this is how i would like valve to work but the cable seems to be short, although its not. Top=open, bottom=closed

second that, it's ridiculous.

Got a few things done recently:

had to change the new rod to the old one

peddle box

idler arm has been refurbed but seems to leak from the gasket, need to investigate this.

heater was a tough job.

looking good

just waiting on some of those funky grommets you can't buy from anyone except BM.

had this like it is, just waiting on some parts

almost no pitting on the worm and this part (no thats not pitting you can see just muck), which is good news for the re-build.

I actually saw a new steering box at the dealership packaged up this week, looked sweet, $$$

Say it isn't so.

I got a new set of locks for my car the other week and went to fit them today but noticed that the new lock doesn't seem to work the same as the old one.

Is this standard practice, or will the new one not work properly. There both in the lock position in terms of the key.

I can fit it to the pole that the steering lock attaches to, but can't really test it much more than that as my car is still in a million pieces.

Cheers

Old lock

New lock

Got a few nic nacks this week, should give me a few things to do. I have an order a dealership to pick up as well, bigger things.

Colour ways for some coco mats, think ill go with the red ones.

picture.

I'm rebuilding the steering box and need to replace the worm gear bearing/cage but have no idea on how to remove it. I've heard the steering box is different from LHD to RHD, i'll add a pic tonight to clarify.

Any thoughts?

Cheers

thanks for that, but i'm not sure which o-ring your referring to, the valve is at the top of the thread unscrewed. I have a feeling there are two totally different valves, not just the inside material.

And another thing, where are these from? I know this stuff is everywhere but this is the second set of this particular shape i found on the second heaterbox, i think it must be from around the heater core??

cheers

yeah ill get grommets, i'm going tomorrow to find some that are similar.

I had a look at my2002tii.com and that fella bought them from the dealer for $3 each in 2004, which seems typical of the price to rise, if you read archived threads i find that a bit.

YES i have searched for this but all the comments are on the other style valve.

Its super stuck, I've tried soaking it in penatrate and sprayed it with lubricant yet the sucker wont budge (tried both). Plus I've pulled it apart and this is as far as i can get.

Any suggestions?

Also I'm not prepared to pay $16 a pop for the grommets that seal the hoses to the top of the box, 64 11 1 353 352, any way of using something more standard, like the right size and just cut it down??

cheers

[EDIT]

yep, you get pretty good after a few goes.

Sweeto, sounds pretty similar to how i'm doing my 73 Verona, just minus the s14, i can only dream about such a thing.

good luck.

Did some more painting last week:

have to do something about the inside of the tank

boosters and things

Nice car, but it seems strange that you bought it because it was nice and original with low miles but your doing a s14 swap etc. I rekon the s14 will be sweet its just seems stange.

Are you keeping it Verona?? - i hope so, good colour and year.

Keep it up.