Mark92131

Such a cool car. Any thoughts about upgrading your pre-internet ignition, rather than repairing something that has ultimately failed? No disrespect intended, just curious. Mark92131

While working on the idle issues with the S14, I noticed that the fan belt would sometimes slip on hard revs. On further inspection, it appeared that the alternator pivot bushing was loose. I pulled the alternator and pressed out the bushing, what a mess. The rubber bushing had turned to black goo. I replaced it with poly and now the alternator is rock solid. Back to tuning my idle. Mark92131

Well, one good thing about getting the motor running, it does provide some quick feedback on if you have any leaks. After going through the mis-adventure of the leaking heater core, (turned out to be just the hose clamp to the heater core on the driver's side), I did identify 3 leaks while running the motor. I had an oil leak at the oil filter housing, a coolant leak at the thermostat and a transmission leak at the back of the transmission (output shaft seal, shift selector seal, or both). Two leaks I have successfully fixed and one remains until I have enough motivation and help to complete the task. The oil and the coolant leak were first on my list. I started with the oil leak at the oil filter housing by pulling that part and inspecting all the connections (oil filter, AN fittings to the oil cooler, oil pressure sender for the aftermarket gauge and the oil pressure switch for the oil light on the dash). My inspection uncovered my mistake pretty quickly, I used the wrong type tape to seal the threads on the AN fittings and the oil dissolved it and started leaking. Cleaned up the threads and decided to use a proper thread sealer (Gasoila) to prevent future leaks. I had a "while I was in there" moment and decided to replace the electric oil pressure gauge with a mechanical one. Not because it was leaking or not working, but because it seemed to be always near pegged at 80 Lbs, the limit of the gauge. I found a 52mm mechanical oil pressure gauge from Dyno Racing on Amazon that reads up to 150 Lbs and bought it and the Dorman Universal installation kit. When it arrived, I thought I would just use the original M12 to 1/8" NPT fitting I had for the electric oil pressure sender to install it. I pulled the original adapter from the oil filter housing, coated the threads in Gasoila and screwed it back in. As I was snugging it up, I suddenly snapped in two, leaving the threaded section in the housing. Turns out, it was cheap aluminum and many people had the same issue. I did manage to find a stainless steel version and installed it instead. With all the fittings installed, I reinstalled the oil filter housing, ran the oil hose through the firewall and installed the gauge in the console. Now the coolant leak. I never liked how some of the hose connections to the thermostat fit, lots of strange angles and hose clamps that didn't quite fit square on the fittings. For good measure, I reworked the lower hose from the thermostat to the radiator (longer) and the hose from the thermostat to the water pump (also longer). I replaced some of the clamps that weren't tightening properly with new and that seemed to correct the issues. The thermostat has two M14 fittings for sensors. I had one fitted with the sensor for the 52mm water temp gauge in my console, the other had a plug that I tapped for a ground wire for the other sensor. Well, this arrangement was not leaking, but when I was running the motor, the water temp gauge never seemed to register anything. I decided to replace the electric water temp gauge with the matching Dyno Racing mechanical gauge to see if that would solve my issue. When the gauge arrived, I found 2 issues, the probe was larger than the hole in my M14 adapter and that the connector for the probe was 1/2" NPT. I ended up drilling the M14 to 3/8" NPT hole larger so the probe fit through and then adding a male 3/8" NPT to 1/2" female NPT adapter to secure the temp probe. After everything was installed, I started the car and brought it up to temp (170 F out of the head). This equated to about 155F in the thermostat where cooler water from the bottom of the radiator mixes with hotter water from the head which was now showing on the new gauge. The old electric gauge was probably working, but the scale was such, that 150F didn't move the needle much. I completed the cooling system repairs with the correct radiator cap. After firing up the motor after these repairs, no more oil and coolant leaks, but the motor still idles very high during the warmup cycle. After warm up enrichment is off and the idle control valve is closed, it should idle around 850 - 900 RPM. My motor idles around 1200 RPM when warm and nothing I have done seems to change it significantly. My theory is that I have too much air entering the motor which requires more fuel to get a decent AFR, which drives up the RPM, which increases the advance, which drives up the RPM. Here is a list of things I have done to work on this issue. 1. Verified the duty cycle of the IVC (20% closed, 85% open) 2. Restricted the air flow on the input side of the IVC (rubber stopper with a hole in it) 3. Cleaned the Air Bypass Screws, changed the O-Rings, reinstalled and adjusted with Carbtune (see video) 4. Turned in the idle speed screw (no change) 5. Modified the ignition map to run 3 degrees at idle (did drop the idle slightly) 6. Modified VE table at idle to produce 14.0 - 14.5 AFR 7. Performed smoke test on ITB vacuum ports and noted air leaking from throttle plates (Don't know if this is excessive, but will reset throttle plates at .1mm) Things left to do 1. Pull throttle levers and verify proper length 2. Remove current TPS and adapter (Massive) 3. Reset throttle plates to .1mm 4. Reinstall throttle levers 5. Replace Massive TPS adapter with VAC Motorsports version (adjustable to remove signal delay to ECU) 6. Check and recalibrate Air Bypass screws with Carbtune (if needed) Hopefully, getting me to a reasonable idle speed will be the end result of these changes so I can move on to other tasks, interior, suspension sitting too high, transmission leaks. Thanks for reading! Mark92131

In other words, run a straight wire from fuse #4 to the "+" side of your coil. Mark92131

The higher voltage is supplied by the red/black wire from terminal 15 on your starter to the "+" side of your coil. Bypass the resistor wire when using the 12V, no resistor required coil. Mark92131

What coil do you have? To run that wire, you need a non-resisted coil (OEM Black or Red). If running the popular Blue coil or other internally resisted coils, you need to swap out the yellow wire for a standard wire from fuse #4. Maximillian is running a sale on the right coil for your setup. Mark92131 BMW 2002 NGK Canister Type Oil Filled 12 Volt Ignition Coil | MIC WWW.MAX2002STORE.COM The ignition coil is an essential component of your vehicle's ignition system, responsible for producing the high voltage needed to create a spark in the spark plugs. Oil-filled ignition coils are known for their durability and longevity. The oil acts as a protective barrier, shielding the...

The brass bit on the edge of the rotor at 9:00 on your last picture. Mark92131

The brass bit on the edge of the rotor at 9:00 on your last picture. Mark92131

When you get ready to fire it, you may need to turn the body of the distributor back and forth to advance it enough to get it started. Then you can set the timing for 25 degrees BTDC at 2700 RPM (flywheel BB) in the viewing port. When that is done and the distributor is looked down, you can verify TDC again and make a notch in the lip of the distributor body right under the tip of your rotor. Mark92131

The rotor points at #1 position on your cap, plug the #1 wire on it and then add the wires clockwise in the firing order on your valve cover (1,3,4,2). Verify that the rockers for #1 cylinder are off cam (closed, compression stroke) and that the "OT" line on the flywheel is even with the squared off back of the viewing hole. Mark92131

Maybe @rjd2 will sell you the one he bought for his car. Mark92131

Replaced the master and slave and this resolved the issue. Mark92131

The 2 hoses you replaced are high pressure from the pump. The 2 clamps on the one for the fuel filter are correct, but they don't look cinched/tight enough. The other hose you replaced need a fuel injection line clamp. The pressure valve connection for the 4 injector hoses have rubber O-rings that will crack and leak (part # 13511257559). You can replace these yourself. Mark92131 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA-10-1972-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=13_0684

Very unusual design. Blow-through the single barrel Solex carb air cleaner and the exhaust collector for the Turbo bolts directly to the downpipe. Mark92131

In theory, that is suppose to happen when you setup the 123 Ignition distributor for the first time. You setup your motor to TDC on the #1 compression stroke, stab the 123 distributor with the rotor position in relatively the same position as your old distributor, hook up the wires, turn on the ignition and slowly turn the 123 distributor housing counter clockwise until the green light comes on, then lock the distributor down. There are 3 tunes in the blue book for Tii cars. (ROW, US and German market cars adjusted for lead content). The US tune doesn't have a lot of advance at idle, so for your starting issues, I might try the middle of the ROW tune to start. 1000 - 2 to 7 degrees 1500 - 12 to 17 degrees 2000 - 18 to 22 degrees 2500 - 24 to 28 degrees 2700 - 28 degrees You can use your variable timing light to verify that the advance at any RPM is matching the advance in your tune. Mark92131

Pablo's car is fuel injected. Mark92131

The beauty of the 123 Ignition distributor is the ability to test different curves. The Blue Book has three different curves for the Ti, so not hard to try them all. Getting a good MAP signal is a little tricky with dual carbs. I used a damper on my S14 motor. Mark92131 Map sensor collector kit 4 cyl inc hose for equal length connection WWW.EFIHARDWARE.COM Map Sensor collector kit for 4 cylinder with individual throttle bodies.<br/><br/> Having equal length hoses ensures each vacuum pulse arrives at the collector so the map sensor can pick up the vacuum signals at the correctly timed intervals. Just like a tuned set of exhaust headers...

My brother was taping paper towels to the bottom of the transmission and driving the car around to see if he could identify where it was leaking. This provided results that weren't that conclusive. The dye technique clearly identified that both the input and output seals weren't sealing. So it did work for his case. He had replaced both those seals during the restoration, but with NOS seals that weren't up to the task. Mark92131

My brother restored a 1968 Triumph GT6, still chasing down oil leaks. We used this dye and a cheap UV flashlight (under $15) to help figure out where some of the leaks were coming from. Mark92131 Amazon.com: InterDynamics Certified Auto Pro Oil and Fuel System UV Dye Leak Detection for Cars & Trucks & More, 1 Oz, 374CS, Universal : Automotive WWW.AMAZON.COM Buy InterDynamics Certified Auto Pro Oil and Fuel System UV Dye Leak Detection for Cars & Trucks & More, 1 Oz, 374CS, Universal: Engine & Oil - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases Black Light UV Flashlight,Vansky Blacklight 12 LED Urine Detector For Dog/Cat/Pet Urine & Dry Stains and Bed Bug On Carpets/Rugs/Floor,Matching with Pet Odor Eliminator - Amazon.com WWW.AMAZON.COM Black Light UV Flashlight,Vansky Blacklight 12 LED Urine Detector For Dog/Cat/Pet Urine & Dry Stains and Bed Bug On Carpets/Rugs/Floor,Matching with Pet Odor Eliminator - Amazon.com

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Vacuum Chrome Plating. Not cheap, took too long, but the results were great. Mark92131 Plastic Chrome - M&M Metalizing Sales - vacuum chrome metalizing, chroming plastic, color chrome plate - www.mmmetalizing.com WWW.MMMETALIZING.COM M&M Metalizing Sales - California - Chrome plating and vacuum chrome metalizing. Plastic chrome and wheel center caps are our speciality. Metal finishing and chrome plating of automotive and motorcycle / bike parts. Chroming available in many colors: red, yellow, blue...

When I restored by 1971 BMW 1600 Cab, I did the rings and bezel edge in silver. Mark92131

@Conserv has posted the 1968 BMW 2002 Sales Brochure that shows silver rings and silver around the edge of the bezel. Not sure what was factory for the 1600 in 1968, but the silver on the gauge rings was pretty thin and wore down to the black plastic with cleaning, so many ended up black unless restored. Mark92131

Slowly, sorting out some idle and tuning issues with the S14 before moving on to interior work. Mark92131 IMG_4135.MOV

After installing my new Koito H4's, I was having trouble getting them to sit correctly while adjusting them. Went back and checked the holes, sure enough, the buckets were installed wrong. Swapped them and everything it good. The "holes" for the win. Mark92131