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backtrail69

Solex
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Everything posted by backtrail69

  1. Turns out for whatever reason my steering column shaft was rubbing on the pass through on the firewall, making a horrid vibration. I adjusted the column and seems to be alot better. Thanks for the tips. Isaac
  2. The folks at 2002AD said the box was filled with greese and didn't need gear oil. I hadn't tightened down the clamp on the shaft coupler yet (on the column side), only the splines were engaged. I will be sure to preload the column and try again before I pulled all the shrouds off the column. Thanks for the Tips. Isaac
  3. I am getting a almost skipping/grinding feeling in the wheel that is not normal. I inspected everything and nothing was rubbing on the subframe other than a tang on the pitman arm, which i removed and the feeling was still there. I have replaced by steering box with a rebuild unit from 2002AD (seemed smooth when turned by hand), installed a new center link and idler arm bushings. My tie rods are not connected yet and the car is still on jack stands, so the steering should be silky smooth. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Did I damage my steering colum tapping the steering linkage onto the shaft? Thanks, Isaac
  4. I have for a sale ACSchnitzer fiberglass widebody fenders that extend the width of the car by roughly 4in for some serious tires. I bought this kit a few years ago and have since decided that I want to go a different route with my car, so they were never installed. The rears have never been mounted and The fronts were mocked up on a car before I bought the kit, so there are some mounting holes drilled that may need to be filled. I would like to get $800 OBO for these. I would prefer these were picked up due to their size, but shipping is an option at the expense of the buyer. They are in pretty good shape and would need only installation body work with no major cracks/damage. If you have any questions let me know. My email is stark.isaac@gmail.com.
  5. I had one hell of a time trying to find a non cracked E12 head for any reasonable amount of money. I ended repairing my head for a HUGE amount (roughly 500 bucks). This was removing the seat, welding, cutting in new seats, reshaping the bowl and resurfacing. I would say if you aren't worried about performance and the engine isnt pinging, just put the e21 head on.
  6. It is really dependant on the motor, every motor is different. I would get a WB 02 sensor if you don't already and take datalogs with megasquirt. This will allow you to view them in megalog viewer to make changes.
  7. Congrats my first car was my 2002. Bought it when I was 15.
  8. Worn rings or valve stem seals are a likely cause. Some oil blowby is normal, but this sounds excessive.
  9. I would be willing to bet probably 3/8in pipe thread. I don't know for sure for that manifodl but I am pretty sure my lynx was that.
  10. I would join up at e30tech.com for lots of information on turboing m20s if aren't already a member. I have a turbo m20b25 running MSnS at the moment. I would also look into a e30 subframe swap as I don't see the 2002 diffs holding up to much abuse. I know I shattered some gears on mine with a N/A m10..
  11. I converted to a single sidedraft w/ lynx manifold... but now the filter rubs on the booster lol.
  12. Well I already have oversized accentrics, I just need some that are just alittle bigger...
  13. I flipped that "valve/rod" right side up and worked great. Now i just need to figure out a coolant leak and my valve tick. Do they sell over over sized accentrics by any chance?
  14. I will pull my pan this weekend most likely or mabye start this week. Is there any ways to flip that if it is installed incorrectly without removing allt he pump and the drive gear and all that stuff?
  15. To prime the oil pump we put oil through it manually and then cranked it a bunch before we started it. It was a brand new febi oil pump....
  16. I would hope that the pressure releif valve would work fine on a brand new oil pump.... I am going to be dissapointed if i have to pull the pan on this motor.
  17. I tried a WIX filter and a carquest blue filter. I don't know the part numbers but i have used both in the past and have worked fine on the old motor.....GOD...I didnt want to pull the pan.... esp since is is soo nicely sealed right now.
  18. I just rebuilt my first m10. I replaced, all seals, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, timing chaing, oil pump chain/gear, valve springs (dual), SS valves, grinded seats and a 292 cam and all kinds of other things. I had everything clean as a whistle and block and head hot tanked. I just got the car running this weekend and it blew out the oil seal on the filter. I bought a new filter and filled up the oil again. It did it again. I put the seal back on and tightened it more...did it again. What the heck is wrong with my motor. I am VERY close to giving up on this car. I have spent SOOOO much time and money on this car and nothing ever seems to go right. Thanks for your Help, Isaac
  19. I love knowing that my car has only one TINY spot of rust on my car...a square inch....maybe.
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