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SHEN

Solex
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Everything posted by SHEN

  1. The dash cap say's its for a one pice dash but I have a 73tii with a two piece and it fits great. BMP will have it (Thats were I got mine) ..
  2. just wipe it off. It did more damage to your brothers pants the the rubber.
  3. I was lucky. Mine when right in. I have a few hours after work where I can use a lift so one night I pulled my tii's motor and the next night I put another in. I'm glad I didn't have any problems because I needed to have the car running so I could drive it home that night. It sucks taken the bus. The next day I had too many aches and pains so I would never want to do this for a living.
  4. check the linkage going to the injection pump. When that peice of linkage comes off you not only run rich but it only will run at low rpms. If not check your pressure from the electric fuel pump.
  5. The oil pressure switch on the distributor housing will mainly leak when the car is driven and will still leak after the engine is shut off until the motor looses enough pressure. Since the leak would then be at the back of the head its not always so easy to see. Make sure you clean that area of oil and then look to spot any new oil.
  6. for pressing in rubber bushings BMW used to use kerosene.
  7. my tii has the same cold starting problem and always has as long as I've owned the car. First start of the day takes about 8 cranks and later on the car starts right away even its cold and has been sitting for a few hours. As far as I've heard on this board its fairly common.
  8. The smell is most likely most prominent after you do some hard excelleration. My old motor had the same bad smell. The only way I could get around it was to drive with all the windows closed or don't get on your car. The second way doesn't really help because when you go down a hill you still get the smell. You get it after any hard deceleration. The smell gets sucked up from the exhaust somehow and you really smell it bad in the car.
  9. The clicking sound you hear is most likely the outer cv joint. Which makes much more movement. What I did when that noise started was just reverse my half shaft so the inner is now the outer and the outer is now the inner and so now the cv joint doesn't have to move so much. Its worked for half a year now with no noise and I didn't have to spend any money or do much work.
  10. It used to be a common problem. Just replace your fuel line from the firewall to the pump. Since that hoses is suction it doesn't show leaks. I don't know how many times a car would only run at lower rpm's and I sold them that hose and it took care of there problem.
  11. It most likely just has fouled plugs. When you washed it the moisture most likely got to one of the wires and since that wasn't firing well it just caused that plug to foul. If you have any plugs around left over from your last tuneup put them in and see this takes care of it. You might be able to just shuffle the plugs to different cylinders and start the car and rev it and blow all the fouled fuel off the plugs.
  12. I made a new harness years ago just for the alternator wires going from the connector on the alternator to the voltage regulator. Its just 3 wires and its easy enough for me to figure out so it wasn't that hard. You just connect the blue wires from the regulator to the dash light so that you car still has a alt light that works and know you have a clean harness that goes down to the alternator.
  13. I just installed another diff because my pinion bearing was bad and since its quieter I now notice a noise that I barely noticed before (i ignored it) but it was there. Its a scraping sound that sounds like its from the center or the rear of the car. It used to be only noticeable when the windows were down but now that I put in another diff which is much quieter I notice it between 20 and about 45 mph. Faster then that and it goes away. I'm hoping someone else had the same noise and figured out where it was coming from. If you can help me please reply.
  14. nothing normally goes there but I have seen a couple tii's that had switch there that sends a signal to the cold start valve.
  15. http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/mini/mini_cooper/2895379-1.html Its basically a neon drivetrain that was made for the mini
  16. Its most likely coming from the front of the motor area. It is only noticeable when the car is cold and goes away as soon as it warms up a little. It is loud and you think its a timing chain scraping but its only bad bushings on the adjustment bracket for the alternator. What happens as the bushing wears out the bracket moves closer and closer to the timing cover until finally it hits it and causes a the noise when its cold. Just replace the bushings and the noise will be gone.
  17. before the carb would hit the hood you would notice a problem and hear it. I thought it was a bad mount but the bolt had just backed out a thread. I replace the mount anyway and found that the drivers mount replacement is very easy.
  18. if it happens with just the e-brake Its not a return valve problem. The check valves (34-33-1-151-532) are cheap enough so I would replace that just to eliminate the question. I don't see how anything to do with the e-brake can effect the way the motor runs at all. The brake circuit gets vacuum from the engine so I thought that was your problem. If jack is at the end of his rope you should see if he has an extra pump around to install and see if it fixes the problem. If not the problem doesn't sound familiar to me, maybe someone on the board can help you.
  19. You said even with the parking brake. Was that with the parking brake alone and no brake pedal at all? It sounds like a classic bad vacuum non return valve. When the valve is bad the idle goes down when you depress the brake pedal.
  20. how come when you have and extra 5k it always cost 5.5k to get what you need?
  21. Isn't that what you have done to your christmas tree to make it look like it is covered in snow?
  22. I never ordered any but I have an old parts book here where they list the number as 51 71 1 801 810 and they list it as edge protection. It very cheap so you should just order it and see. The number isn't listed on the ETK so don't bother haveing them try and find it.
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