albertamac

Good god man!! You're buyin cars faster than you can build garages! Congrats, I'll have to come by to check things out sooner than later. Mac PS you make me sick, in a good way, but sick

I bet it hates you more... Mac

do you need a second one to feed the triple webers? mac I don't, but what do you need? most redo the whole pedal box in one shot. Less complicated that way, did you break a part?

Not sure what their shock prices are like, but I've had good dealings with RPI equipped over phone orders. http://www.rpiequipped.com mac

meh...

In 1972 debadged 2002's served as sponsor cars for olympic marathoners. ahhh crap, that's summer olympics. Mac

I'd stop worrying about my tach, and figure out what the hell went wrong with your car. Sounds kind of spooky to me, wish I could say I knew what happened... but something went haywire. Is it running 100% now with the old coil? or is it still clumsy? If so, make doubly sure it won't happen again, then worry about your tach when your running 100% again. The tach itself isn't wired in a complex fashion, so check all your leads, and if all else fails, scoop the tach out of the car you got the coil from. Mac

I let myself do the bodywork... thank god for silver! Mac

I'll give it a shot, thanks. Mac

Has anyone ever successfully replaced one of their front quarterlights without taking all the glass out? The tab on the base of #3 in the attached photo has broken off of mine, just wanted to see if I should start looking for the whole track and quaterlight frame, or if I will be able to jimmie another one in there without breaking the tab off again. I'm hoping I can just slide another #9 and #3 plus the glass in there and be done with it. Not sure why it broke, just fell into my wife's lap when she was on her way to work one day. Thanks Mac whew, thought I'd never get that pic up...

nerf bars? at least the smaller ones on Vee dubs are called nerf bars... and yes dutch, pure aesthetics. mac

Even without the lights makin me jealous. I won't own one of those for at least 20 years... Mac

1. Placed the seal around the window, put in the lockstrip (this was my tragic flaw, make sure you get a lockstrip tool, they are cheap and save you lots of time), if it's warm it helps a lot. 2. Wrapped a nylon string around the seal 2 times 3. Lubed up with soap and water. 4. Placed the window over the opening, had someone push strategically from the outside of the car. I pulled the string to flip the seal in place from the inside of the car. (I wrapped twice to make damn sure I had 2 chances) boom, windshield in! Do some seaching and you can find some more involved instructions, but I think this is the jist of it. I think there is some controversey whether to put the lockstrip in before or after. Sounds to me like it works either way, but I opted for before and have had no problems. No sealant, no leaks, no noise (not from the windshield anyway) Seriously it took us longer to decide that that's all there was to it than to actually put it in. Mind you my front seal was slightly used, therefore maybe a little more forgiving, but it had been out of a car for at least 6 months. I think you'll have no problems with a new oem seal. The rear glass was a PITA, but I was using an aftermarket seal. I'd bet money it would go better with oem. Anthony may be able to chime in as to whether I'm out to lunch or not, I know he was going to do his seals this past weekend. Mac

I second that... again. Took me 5 minutes to install the glass up front with an oem seal, took 3 of us at least 3 hours to get the rear glass in with an aftermarket seal, and it doesn't look quite as it should either. Lesson learned. As far as glass goes, I got lucky in the scrapyard. For new, I'd probably track down my own if it was feasible, as I imagine there would be a few more dollars spent if the glass company tracked it down for you. But you never know. mac

Dammit! I should know that by now... Thanks John, btw car looks great, can't wait to see it all together. Making me wish I had stuck with colorado... then again my shawdy bodywork needed the most forgiving paint it could find. Sigh... one day. And dutch, I'm just pullin your leg man, do your thing. I'm sure everyone could pick my o2 to death too; hell maybe even moreso. Just be open to constructive criticism with this crowd, they know their stuff. Mac

no no and no. please don't do that... and whatever you do, dont' post a pic of it. You think the intake was bad... but no, seriously. Things cost money for a reason. Do your homework, check things out. Bigger headers have better flow. The design, flow, curves, and tubing diameter etc are all factors for more hp, you've got to start right from the block and carry it right through to the end of the exhaust system. You want some more power for cheap, take a look at Zenon's site and get a megasquirt project going. Probably the best bang for buck out there right now. Spend a couple hun on the MS, pillage the scrapyards for injection parts, and boom, ponies. mac

Just gotta ask dude, did you disconnect your cooling fan so all that hot air wouldn't blow thru the rad all over your "cold air" intake? might be able to squeeze a few more ponies yet... and Zenon, that laura secord box damn near made me pee my pants! Mac and for all our sakes, I damn well hope you're doing 115 at the track and nowhere freaking close to any of us...

Cooper's car is in the gallery at m2bmw.com couple pics of the dash, can't say I can tell if it's leather or not... Mac

I have my 02 insured under a branch of ING in Canada, not sure what they offer in the US, but worth checking out. I have a 5000 km/year limit with an option to purchase additional holiday mileage if needed. Good coverage, but stipulating driver must be 25 or over, and the car needs to be parked indoors "most" nights. Funny thing is I pay $98 per year, and get a 10% discount on my other vehicle for having a second car insured which was a $150 discount so I actually got money back after I put my 02 on the policy... sounds too good to be true, but I'm sure not going to say anything.... Mac

like so... Mac

woah woah woah... hold on there buddy! Like you said, don't get so defensive. First of all you walk in and post a semi-slanderous post regarding a very reputable business that a lot of people here highly regard. Yeah, I know your frustrated, but you have to choose your words carefully, your previous heading wasn't doing Korman any favours. They try to appeal to as many people as possible in order to run an effective business. If you want to know the truth coming from another student, trust me dude, we're not going to be anybody's top customer anytime soon. Not to say they won't take good care of you, you just can't make everybody happy all the time. If that were the case, I'm freakin mad at everyone who doesn't include Canadian funds pricing on their sites! Let's be realistic. And no, nobody's being graded here, but man, the difference between asking someone how their schrick 314 performs opposed to a 360 is like asking how their new factory spec rocket boosters are doing, and what kind of hp increase they saw. It's a waste of everybody's time trying to answer questions about parts that don't exist when you want finite answers. Show everyone some respect, click the search button, and do your homework before ya freakout. And hey, no one is insulting you personally anymore than you were personally insulting Ray Korman. If his website freaks you out, don't deal with him, trust me, his business is doing just fine, so don't make assumptions about his e-business being poor. You don't get to be one of the top bmw tuners in the country by running a lousy shop... Mac

I'm with you on that one. When replacing my box, every used one I got my hands on felt really stiff in the middle, but buttery smooth once bolted up to the rack. A bit of play when maxed out to either side is pretty common too. You're probably good to go, and the fact that it can't be adjusted out may mean there is very little wear on the gears... you may be luckier than you think. Just the other side of the coin, I'm no expert, but that's my take on it. Mac

time for a new rad cap maybe? To the best of my knowledge, they have a psi rating, so that once a certain pressure is reached--> into the overflow vent. I haven't had this problem on an o2, but I have needed to get a cap rated for a higher psi on a vehicle before to keep what your explaining from happening. Yours just may be worn out. Maybe someone a little more sure of themselves can pipe in... speaking of which, my 02 always runs hot, maybe I should get on that... Mac

click on dealer locator, and give them a call. I needed the same part a few months ago, a momo dealer in Winnipeg hooked me up, cost about 25 bones with shipping. Mac

click on dealer locator, and give them a call. I needed the same part a few months, a momo dealer in Winnipeg hooked me up, cost about 25 bones with shipping. Mac