engine and drivetrain Intro and a few questions (long)

[smoore]

Hi all, my name is Sean and I just bought a 1976 2002. I live in Denver, CO and although I've never owned a 2002 before I grew up on a steady diet of VW, Volvo, Saab and MG cars.

It's in fairly decent shape, there is some cancer at the rear wheels and starting on the rockers. Surface cancer on the passenger floor accompanied by something that looks and smells like engine oil (should be interesting when I pull the carpet). Big dents in the driver side that I should be able to mostly push out with a boot and a helper.

It's got the basic 2002 problems that I've been reading about here and on other sites, electrical gremlins, slow wipers (pass side inop. -- part ordered) heater fan doesn't work (and has a 25A fuse in the fuse box!)... BUT it was owned by a H.S. / College kid who's dad is very into classic cars. The kid had his service done at a professional BMW shop here in Denver and the entire thing does manage to romp down the road in a decent fashion. I've run a tank of gasoline through it and it runs better and better every time I drive it.

Questions:

1 - Is the locknut for the steering box preload adjustment RH or LH thread? I've put a decent amount of torque on it counter-clockwise and can't get it to budge. Yes, I know that messing with the preload can get you in trouble, I will be careful to insure the steering gear still self centers when I adjust it. I figure it's probably a lost cause anyway, there is 1.5 inches or more play at the steering wheel yet moving the rolling wheels any fraction of an inch results in "I can feel it" from the helper manning the steering wheel. I'm assuming I'll be buying a rebuilt box at some point.

2 - Lowered springs + spoiler: Living in the American West we have drainage for flash flooding in the form of concrete ditches we have to drive over. I've been driving around and thinking, "Man, if I had a dam on the front and it was an inch lower I'd have just taken the dam out!" Do people normally run stock height springs on the street?

3 - Shifter: Yup, it's like stirring oatmeal. There is a kit for $110 here at Topend performance -- http://www.racetep.com/2002pl0902.htm ** (copy at bottom) ** Should I buy that kit or source all of the parts myself? I don't know what all I need to replace and the "Parts Advisor" at Murray seemed pretty nonplussed about a "car older than him" (his words). I don't think I'll get much enthusiastic help or in depth knowledge from that counter.

4 - Choke: It's the Weber manual choke conversion kit for the 32/38. The gear and "slide gear" (for lack of a better term) seem to be binding and it's very difficult to get the choke set. Any hints on servicing this area before I head out there today? I plan on taking it apart, lubing and reassembling it but if anyone has a "trick" I'm all ears.

5 - Hazard switch. To no one's surprise it doesn't work. However, whenever the dash lights come on it glows steady red. Turn signals do not affect it. Should I just replace it or is this indicative of a more serious problem?

6 - Seats. It's got some sort of sport seats and the back seat is completely trashed. I was just going to get covers for all of them and pad the back seat but I've been reading that people take even the rear seat upholstery from donor cars. This sounds like my kind of project. What are good donor cars for this and how much should I expect to pay at the pull-a-part for seats in cloth? leather? did they even have pleather?

7 - Exhaust hanger between 1st and 2nd muffler is inop., that connection flange is inop. -and- the motor "rocks" at idle about 10mm back and forth. This does not look right to me. I can't really see the motor mounts but I'm assuming once I do I'll find a crack in one. Am I correct in assuming I need to stabilize the motor before fixing the exhaust? I figure it'll just shake the exhaust back apart if left unchecked.

8 - Fuses. WTF, over? Seriously, I can't find fuses to save my life. Every auto parts store that has ceramic fuses is carrying the same ones (Buss brand?) that are about 4mm longer than my stock BMW fuses. The 2002 does not like them and spits them back at me. Am I stuck just buying fuses from the dealer?

9 - Anyone have a scan of the Owners' Manual for this car?

10 - Who has a 320i with a LSD, 5 speed, bottle caps and a leather interior they want to sell me for $200?

11 - Just as much of a long shot as #10: Anyone have a full size pattern for a carpet kit? I'm a carpet installer so making a cut and bound carpet set is childs play.

Feel free to answer one, some, all or none of the above questions... this forum is great for searching and I've already found lots of answers. Thanks in advance!

** Here is the ad copy for that shifter kit:

Misc. Shifter and Driveline Pieces:

Shifter Rebuild and Upgrade Kit: 109.00

Complete kit to rebuild and upgrade your 4 speed shifter to the late style linkage…Includes the Lower shift lever and ball with Delrin bushing, The bushings between the upper and lower shifter levers, selector rod, cup bushings, knuckle between trans and selector rod, pin and clip for knuckle, retaining clips and bushings, Shift tower to tans mounts….In other words..Everything you need to make it feel better than new….

Add $20.00 to have it shortened for 5 speed conversion…

Add $40.00 for Short Throw Shifter Conversion

[c.d.iesel]

..." cancer at the rear wheels and starting on the rockers - Surface cancer

on the passenger floor accompanied by something

that looks and smells like engine oil (should be

interesting when I pull the carpet). Big dents in

the driver side "

#2 forget about springs and spoilers till the body

is really rot free, and mechanicals are 100%.Really

survey the entire car FIRST (again) before dumping

bags of money into it.

#8 fuses - any BMW Dealer, any VW parts house, any

metric supply (WURTH)

#6 only padding for your seats is 2002 front, and 320i

back seat padding (with top corner trimming) - or 'rallye'

seats for the same cost

# 7 replace them, incl. trans mt.

# floor/rocker rot

# 3 mushy shifter - reeplace all 'wearable' partsall parts available

from any BMW Dealer - cheep repair

# 1 mark your starting point!, steering box = left hand thread (lefty lucy)

# 7 exhaust - most important is trans/exhaust support bits

[Guest Anonymous]

Hey Sean, Welcome to the 2002 addiction. There are hundreds of serious amateur and professional 2002 fans and restorers on this board that can provide a huge wealth of info. I'm sure the better informed will weigh in on your spectic questions, including Mr. Diesel above. However I would recommend that you go out and buy a copy of Bimmer Magazine that has dozens of ads for '02 parts and upgrades. There are probably dozens of 2002 parts suppliers out there, including BLUNT on this board. Then consisder joining the BMW Car Club of America for even more info and a great monthly magazine. Some folks, including me, have had good luck with their local BMW dealer for parts, who may provide a substanial discount to vintage BMW owners. These cars, when sorted out, can be very reliable, a joy to drive and will engender plenty of parking lot conversations. Good luck.

_________________________

Roger

'72 Malaga

[smoore]

Thanks, cd. That's a lot of german tools for the steering box, jeez. I'm used to just doing it against the manufacturers recommendations ala jeeps and pickup trucks: 1/8 turn, check for centering, repeat.

Should I fix the motor and trans mount before I bother with the exhaust or can I fix the exhaust first to make the driving more comfortable? I ask because I can probably seal the tailpipe up with locally available parts and would have to order the (presumably expensive) motor mounts from the dealer or realoem.com and wait.

[smoore]

Bimmer magazine, check. BMWCCoA... check. I'll drive over to B&N or Borders and see if they have a copy today.

[wagnerf15]

BavAuto and others have motor mounts for less than $40 a piece. Not particularly expensive

[BillWilliams]

You need a repair manual, try the Haynes or Mike McCartheys Restoration Guide first. A google or Amazon search will turn both of these up.

Then find a factory repair manual. Not available new, sometimes e-bay has them for hundreds. Best, find a friend with one, take it to Kinkos and reproduce it. Reduce it from its native A4 size to 8 1/2 x 11 inch format so you can get a binder for it. About $80 in reproduction fees.

Hazard switch, there was a thread on here the past day or so about fixing the switch. Just remember, the signal light circuits do run through the hazard switch.