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  1. Cool project! Looking forward to range reports. 90mph huh? I think that's the top speed of my old worn out ICE in my '76. I saw your videos before you posted this here, linked on some EV forum. Any insight into why you decided to keep the transmission instead of just using direct drive? Someone else brought up,"Which gears do you use?" and I'm also curious about that. I'd love to have an EV 2002, mainly for tinkering like you. I just love the idea of electric cars. I won't be able to justify the expense until my motor simply dies, however. I would be happy with a 40 mile range and a top speed of 60mph for my first. I take surface streets almost always for my commute and I'm all over town (construction). I could recharge for 8 hours on 110V on all of our normal jobs that I can think of if the job was more than 20 miles away. Don't listen to the "long tailpipe" haters, that argument has been debunked over and over. Even the US DOE determined that the pollution is less. There is not a single peer reviewed study I'm aware of that claims otherwise. It's not "nearly zero" like a lot of EV zealots would have you believe but it's less and more importantly the emissions are not concentrated in the urban center. Anyone who wants to argue about that, go ahead and email me, keep it out of his thread please. It's not a 2002 but this guy's land rover should be darn cool: http://adventure-ev.com/ Drool over his batteries.
  2. I won't be using Aircare. '81 and earlier can still go to the independent testers. Thanks all.
  3. Car has had the smog pump disabled, the manifold and pump are still on the car. The pump is frozen, I cannot turn it by hand. The smog temperature senders are no longer connected to the harness. The car is equipped with a newer looking 008 distributor and what appears to be a 32/36 Weber carb. The valve clearance is within tolerance. The Bosch blue coil produces a nice blue spark.The car burns a bit of oil on over run. AFAIK there is no visual inspection to pass. i.e. they just want it to pass the probe test. If they do try to do a visual inspection I will claim "modified" or "hot rod" status. This appears to be allowed but may be a hassle. It is a two-speed test: The limits in CO for the 1976 model year are CO: 3.6 and HC: 600. These are the same limits as 1975 so I wouldn't think not having the smog pump will hurt me. If some certain legislation passes this summer I may have to undergo emissions testing on an annual basis, as the cutoff for "collector car" is going to be 1975 from next year on. We're not sure if our current collector cars will be grandfathered in. As it stands right now, any car over 25 years old can be registered as such and only has to be smogged on change of ownership. I will buy and install a electronic ignitor (probably the knockoff from ebay, Hot-Spark), change the oil and filter, gap and install new plugs and clean my air filter. I will attempt to time the car to exactly 25 btdc, as specified (haven't seen the BB yet but it runs well). I will run the snot out of the car on the way to the emissions test, to heat it up well. What else should I do? Since they don't test for NOx should I run some HEET in a few gallons of premium? Should I slightly over lean the idle circuit?
  4. The knock-off Pertronix type ignition modules from ebay. Anyone have a horror story? Do people that have them like them? Inquiring minds want to know. At about half the price of a Pertronix it seems like a good deal as long as they work as advertised.
  5. "If we all love flying so much why are we always in such a hurry to get there?" referring to pilots trying to make their airplanes faster and faster in cruise. Take the back roads if you have the time. Eat at greasy spoons. At the end of the day have a beer in a roadhouse and fall asleep happy in a backwater motel that smells slightly of mildew. Road trip!
  6. I have my first 2002 now after years of lusting over them. I am a long-term enthusiast of old and quirky cars. From what I've seen on my '76, what I've read here and other places on the web and what I see re: amount of enthusiast and professional support available I can confidently say this is the BEST of the old euro cars for a non-mechanic to own. i.e. if you are going to drive a classic euro car you couldn't pick a better model.
  7. thank you. I'll search username mike and relays.
  8. 1976 02 Hella H4(?) upgrade, stock switches. There are fog lamps but they are inop. My hazard switch does not work and glows red when the light switch is on. All other lights work fine, including the gauge cluster. The problem is intermittent, sometimes when I start the car and turn the lights on the headlights will not respond for a couple seconds up to a minute. It doesn't seem to matter if I turn the switch on and off or if I just wait with the switch in the on position. The lights eventually come on and perform normally. Cycling the light switch after they illuminate works normally, can't reproduce the problem until the car cools again. I suspect the headlight relay(s). Is this a rational assumption?
  9. I just managed to replace the right pivot arm with the mechanism in the car. It was fiddly but by no means impossible. This is for people who find this through search (like I did): Look at the pictures here, zoom in on them if you can: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,315874/highlight,wiper/ Put your wipers at 90 degrees from park (all the way up) and turn off the car, they stay. This gets the part in a position you can work on it. The live end of the arm is just pressed together, no circlip. A big blade stubby screwdriver took mine apart. The static end of the arm is held to "that other tube" by a nut. Get the outside nut off, the easy part. Put your handy pocket-sized channel locks to use and hold the middle nut while you turn the nut attached to the pivot arm. This is the sort of fiddly part. IMPORTANT: The middle nut and a brass washer are trapped in between the bodywork of the plenum and that tube you're trying to free the pivot arm from. Don't even try to remove them, leave them right where they are. Once you get the pivot arm out friction will hold them in place (on my car anyway) and a screw driver through the hole makes sure they don't slip out. Use thread lubricant and put your new pivot shaft in. This is the really fiddly part. Points off for cursing. Put the outside nut and it's washer back on. Grease the press fitting, press the live end of the arm back together (6in channel locks again), park the wipers, reinstall arm and it's done.
  10. I am thankful for WOT. Did you have to replace any parts or just adjust it? I'm an '02 n00b and the throttle linkage in mine seems a bit hokey.
  11. I just bought my '76 and the choke was like that. I assumed it was wrong so I turned it around. Works fine now in any case.
  12. Bimmer magazine, check. BMWCCoA... check. I'll drive over to B&N or Borders and see if they have a copy today.
  13. Thanks, cd. That's a lot of german tools for the steering box, jeez. I'm used to just doing it against the manufacturers recommendations ala jeeps and pickup trucks: 1/8 turn, check for centering, repeat. Should I fix the motor and trans mount before I bother with the exhaust or can I fix the exhaust first to make the driving more comfortable? I ask because I can probably seal the tailpipe up with locally available parts and would have to order the (presumably expensive) motor mounts from the dealer or realoem.com and wait.
  14. I suppose I could have asked this question in my intro thread but here goes: I have a Pioneer KE-81ZBM radio and it's code. The inline fuse (only 5A, surprising to me) was blown and when I replaced it I can get the radio to power up but that's all. The lights come on in the display and buttons, I can hear the amp come up with it's subdued click in the speakers but that is all. There is no "code?" on the display, nothing. It's a paperweight, right? I'd like to have music in the car but I have more important things to spend my money on. edit: I ask here because it is BMW branded.
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