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Need megasquirt files for M10's with fuel/spark


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I just got my 76 2002 T04 turbo running last night and it doesn't sound good...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjYvf8yAv8I

So I need other megasquirt files and I'd like to compare them and load them into my ecu to make this thing run a little better...

I'm running a v3.0 board with MS1; MSnSparkExtra but fuel/spark maps and VE tables are what I'm really looking for for my M10.

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I'll send you mine, 42# injectors, tuned to about 25 psi or so.

Imapinepig at surewest dot net

If you don't need it all here are my fuel and spark tables. I use water /meth injection past 7psi so spark will be a little high above 7psi for pump gas and the fuel will be a little lean.

Get the AF ratios where you want them first and then start working the timing, ping and you have to much, funny jerking motions and you need more. After you get the timing pretty close you'll have to go back and do all the AF again, and then the spark. usually after two rounds of that crap you'll be pretty close.

Download the megalog viewer and use it, it makes life so much easier on you. A smooth cruise and little blast in 3rd gear working up the RPM range a little at a time will get you pretty damn close and will be pretty safe if you always start on the rich side with less timing than needed. Lean and to much timing can cost you big in a very short period ( think milliseconds ) of time so be patient and take your time.

fuel.jpg

spark-1.jpg

Charlie Mac in Sacramento.

My Blog

I'm an كافر

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Guest Anonymous

can you email the .msq to me; n00bjabi@gmail.com

I am using 19# injectors right now before 750cc are thrown in, i want the car to run nicely from 1000 to 3000 rpm on 19's before I throw the big ones in and scale the tables to match the big ones. I have a question also about your setup - are you running wasted spark with a 36-1 wheel by any chance? I can't seem to figure out the timing on my wheel properly... Don't know what to set the trigger angle to and whatnot because the wheel I got was mounted at a different position than most other 2002's I've seen.

361settinghu0.png

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Guest Anonymous
In your image, the wheel is set up correctly. The missing tooth is 9 teeth "ahead" of the sensor at TDC. That's exactly what mine looks like.

This means that my trigger angle in spark settings is set to 90? (Or 67.5+22.5)?

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can you email the .msq to me; n00bjabi@gmail.com

I am using 19# injectors right now before 750cc are thrown in, i want the car to run nicely from 1000 to 3000 rpm on 19's before I throw the big ones in and scale the tables to match the big ones. [/img]

I'm not on wasted spark. so you'll have to trust the other info. You can check and see if you have your offset right by using an adjustable timing light. Just dial in the timing # you have set for idle into the timing light and it should show right at the TDC mark on your pully. If not you have something wrong.

Don't even bother using the 19#s, I did 24#ers originally and then went 42#ers and even with the scaling you pretty much will start over anyway. It won't save you any time and you may end up having a bit of a problem getiing those 72s to idle, if you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it'll help but still be a bit trickey.

The MSQ will be on it's way shortly.

Charlie Mac in Sacramento.

My Blog

I'm an كافر

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Guest Anonymous

Roger that -I have an ireland engineering E30 adjustable FPR set to 70psi right now with the 19#'s and I'll compare your msq to mine and see what I can figure out. I also found a few problems with the car that need to be addressed tomorrow (oil leak from dizzy hole lol, forgot to plug it) so thanks in advance I'll be messing with it all week and I'll see what I can get.

What's your current setup?

can you email the .msq to me; n00bjabi@gmail.com

I am using 19# injectors right now before 750cc are thrown in, i want the car to run nicely from 1000 to 3000 rpm on 19's before I throw the big ones in and scale the tables to match the big ones. [/img]

I'm not on wasted spark. so you'll have to trust the other info. You can check and see if you have your offset right by using an adjustable timing light. Just dial in the timing # you have set for idle into the timing light and it should show right at the TDC mark on your pully. If not you have something wrong.

Don't even bother using the 19#s, I did 24#ers originally and then went 42#ers and even with the scaling you pretty much will start over anyway. It won't save you any time and you may end up having a bit of a problem getiing those 72s to idle, if you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it'll help but still be a bit trickey.

The MSQ will be on it's way shortly.

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What's your current setup?

Most is in the blog at the bottom in the sig area. Changes are a water/meth injection setup, the log manifold is gone and a new tubular one was made, I had a buddy that does parts work for RS-autosports set my MS up for boost and water/meth control ( still using the hobbs switch for water/meth though ), the boost control setup works great, I used the VW/Audi N75 valve with the settings you see in my MSQ, I highly recomend that mod to your MS board and boost control over some lame assed manual boost controller. I normally run about 15 psi summer time as the way I have it set up ( very safe with the IAT/CLT related ignition timing control) it pulls so much timing in the summer heat it doesn't make any power with more boost anyway, and the reality is that timing that is too retarded raises your combustion chamber temps to dangerous levels too. I'll turn it back up to 23psi or so once the daytime temps around here aren't getting over 70 deg again.

Your gonna need more clutch soon, a 618 pressure plate with a stock sachs disk will do ya up to about 300 or so, anymore than that and you'll be braking rear ends anyway.

Charlie Mac in Sacramento.

My Blog

I'm an كافر

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In your image, the wheel is set up correctly. The missing tooth is 9 teeth "ahead" of the sensor at TDC. That's exactly what mine looks like.

This means that my trigger angle in spark settings is set to 90? (Or 67.5+22.5)?

Z, If the engine runs, then you're close. It would not run at all if you were truly 180 off, so I wouldn't worry about it. You now need to dial it in, by adjusting the "trigger offset" in "base ignition settings". You have to determine this empirically by using the timing light. You shouldn't have to set this value to more than a plus or minus a few degrees. I suppose you could do it by measuring the angle very carefully on the pully in relation to TDC and your VR sensor.

John Capoccia

Sierra Madre, CA

 

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Guest Anonymous
In your image, the wheel is set up correctly. The missing tooth is 9 teeth "ahead" of the sensor at TDC. That's exactly what mine looks like.

This means that my trigger angle in spark settings is set to 90? (Or 67.5+22.5)?

Z, If the engine runs, then you're close. It would not run at all if you were truly 180 off, so I wouldn't worry about it. You now need to dial it in, by adjusting the "trigger offset" in "base ignition settings". You have to determine this empirically by using the timing light. You shouldn't have to set this value to more than a plus or minus a few degrees. I suppose you could do it by measuring the angle very carefully on the pully in relation to TDC and your VR sensor.

How carefully do I have to measure the angle, the picture I posted above is one I crafted that precisely shows the position of the units on my vehicle.

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In your image, the wheel is set up correctly. The missing tooth is 9 teeth "ahead" of the sensor at TDC. That's exactly what mine looks like.

This means that my trigger angle in spark settings is set to 90? (Or 67.5+22.5)?

Z, If the engine runs, then you're close. It would not run at all if you were truly 180 off, so I wouldn't worry about it. You now need to dial it in, by adjusting the "trigger offset" in "base ignition settings". You have to determine this empirically by using the timing light. You shouldn't have to set this value to more than a plus or minus a few degrees. I suppose you could do it by measuring the angle very carefully on the pully in relation to TDC and your VR sensor.

How carefully do I have to measure the angle, the picture I posted above is one I crafted that precisely shows the position of the units on my vehicle.

Z, the Ranger is right. After reviewing the documentation, if you've got it set up exactly as shown, you should be right on. If you want to check it for certain, then the method described in the manaul seems best. In "limp" mode, put a timing light on it. It should be 10 deg advance (exactly the interval between teeth). If it's not, adjust by either moving the sensor, or putting an offset in base ignition settings. I did it a slightly different way. I made marks on the pully in increments of five degrees, then compared the timing light reading to the actual advance that I had set at idle in my spark advance table. Had I read the manual more carefully, I would have done it the way it's described rather than resort to my own methods.

John Capoccia

Sierra Madre, CA

 

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