Rear subframe bushing carrier

[djm1968]

02ers,

Have I gone mad? So, I am pulling apart my rear sub frame -- everything came apart reasonably easy save for the bolts that hold the bushing housing to the subframe. On each bushing housing, one bolt came off easy enough, the other seemingly impossible to break free. The stuck bolt on each side if the one which is basically impossible to reach with a box or open end, btw.

I've doused the bolts with pb blaster, whacked and thrashed on 'em with a 5lb sledge, heated them with a torch...still, no joy. Any suggestions on breaking those bolts free?

Thanks,

DJM

[TobyB]

Yeah, I've noticed that too-

the bolts are relatively loose

in the sleeves when they aren't rusted up,

so heating and beating on 'em seems to be the

only real ticket.

fwiw,

t

[cam1602]

I had my rear subframe apart the past weekend. First I dropped the whole subframe out of the car. This required disconnecting the parking brake, rear brake flex lines, drive shaft. Then two nuts on the center section, two larger nuts to the housing bushings, and the two small bolts that hold the stapes to the bushing part. Since I was replacing flex lines, brake shoes, wheel bearings and springs anyway, it was just easer for me to drop it out of the car. While I was at it, noticed that both subframe bushings were torn up and I had an extra set ready to go, so I replace them also. Each bushing has two long bolts running through the subframe. I guess the bolt head is difficult to reach if still in the car, but the nut side was very easy to reach, at lease with the whole subframe laying on the driveway. IIRC, I used a 19 mm box end on the nut side and a 17mm open end on the head side, or something close to that. Hope this helps.

[djm1968]

Understood.

My subframe is out of the car, everything is stripped from the subframe, save for the bushing carriers. Here the crazy part: I've removed the 19mm nuts from all the bolts, two bolts, one per side, came free fairly easily. The other two bolts, again one per side, are stuck, and yes the nut has been removed -- it is stuck in the tube. Part of the problem, I believe is the PO used some heavy duty under coating that has has worked to additionally cement the bolts in place.

Still, sounds like a heat and beat job. I just wanted to check and make sure these were supposed to come out...was starting to think they were welded in at the factory!

Thanks!

DJM

I had my rear subframe apart the past weekend. First I dropped the whole subframe out of the car. This required disconnecting the parking brake, rear brake flex lines, drive shaft. Then two nuts on the center section, two larger nuts to the housing bushings, and the two small bolts that hold the stapes to the bushing part. Since I was replacing flex lines, brake shoes, wheel bearings and springs anyway, it was just easer for me to drop it out of the car. While I was at it, noticed that both subframe bushings were torn up and I had an extra set ready to go, so I replace them also. Each bushing has two long bolts running through the subframe. I guess the bolt head is difficult to reach if still in the car, but the nut side was very easy to reach, at lease with the whole subframe laying on the driveway. IIRC, I used a 19 mm box end on the nut side and a 17mm open end on the head side, or something close to that. Hope this helps.

[wegweiser]

I bet it's pure rust - not undercoating. Do make SURE that the structure of those tubes is intact after removal of the bolts. If not - it's new subframe time - or skilled welding-repairs. I've had them SHEAR in HALF at that location due to corrosion! Triumph TR6 subframes are notorious for this same structural failure / bolt-in-the-tube rust as well, I recall.

Kinda' reminds me of old swaybar end link hell, as a teenager in 1985.

HTH!

Paul Wegweiser

[djm1968]

I bet it's pure rust - not undercoating. Do make SURE that the structure of those tubes is intact after removal of the bolts. If not - it's new subframe time - or skilled welding-repairs. I've had them SHEAR in HALF at that location due to corrosion! Triumph TR6 subframes are notorious for this same structural failure / bolt-in-the-tube rust as well, I recall.

Kinda' reminds me of old swaybar end link hell, as a teenager in 1985.

HTH!

Paul Wegweiser

Hey Paul,

I did eventually get the bolts out -- there was some corrosion, but not much -- this is a newer rear subframe, with new hardware. The tubes are clearly in good shape, but what a bytch to get that last botl out!

Thanks!

DJM

[BillWilliams]

The carriers are different for round and square light cars.

On square light cars, the carrier will fit either side. On round light cars, there are left and right carriers.

Put the bolts in the carriers then insert the bolts through the sub-frame. Coat with the silver stuff so you won't go mad the next time.