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Idle issue


Jack

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The 72 idels a bit high as it is...about 100-1200 with the 32/36. After I've driven it a while and it is all warmed up the idle seems to "stick" in the 2000-2500 range. Sometimes I can blip the throttle and it will come down but mostly not. Today I pulled the choke handle and pushed it right back in and it brought it down. Return spring is free and correct, new and seems to have good tension and functions ok. Mounts are solid so nothing is shifting. What do you think?

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before you go any further with chasing a carb adjustment -

set the valves Cold

Adjust the dwell

adjust the timing with a timing light

THEN adjust the hot idle speed and idle mixture

Check that the choke is all the way off and the high idle cam is not engaged with the throttle plate lever causing the irratic high idle speed

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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This is a problem common in cars with the auto-choke but since you say your's has the manual type, I dunno. Usually for cold starts, the idle goes up after awhile to warm the engine quicker - Karl used to do this with the Solex and did it sometimes when the Weber got put on when it was colder. Boyfriend's is still running on the Solex and it does it everytime, cold or not.

It's not an uncommon thing to happen, but if you are worried, what helps is next time you hear it and it starts to get high, tap the gas pedal and more often that not, the idle will go back down and stay down. Like I said, just keep an ear out.

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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The 72 idels a bit high as it is...about 100-1200 with the 32/36. After I've driven it a while and it is all warmed up the idle seems to "stick" in the 2000-2500 range. Sometimes I can blip the throttle and it will come down but mostly not. Today I pulled the choke handle and pushed it right back in and it brought it down. Return spring is free and correct, new and seems to have good tension and functions ok. Mounts are solid so nothing is shifting. What do you think?

is your throttle operated by a cable? if so i may have the answer. the cable housing comes out of the end "stay" and rides on the lip, causing a bit of throttle application. when you blip the throttle, the housing comes free, and falls back into the cup, and the cable operates normally again. the answer is to glue the end of the cable housing into the "cup" cable stay end holder thing, or crimp it in there somehow... ;)

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