engine and drivetrain Guibo questions not answered in forum search, Part 1.

[andrewro]

Okay, I am expecting my parts for guibo / center bearing / shift platform renewal today. I have read and re-read old posts, and I have a few unanswered questions before I jump into this procedure.

1. The center-pieces at the front of the guibo that I see in exploded views - do I reuse what is already installed in my car? Is that what I pack with moly?

2. Will I need a circlip tool?

3. When reassembling, do I go ahead with the loctite 242 on the threads of the guibo bolts? What happens if I need to back them off or tighten them further? Will the loctite interfere?

4. I am replacing some shift bushings and the platform mounts. Do I need to do anything inside the car? Remove the console to get to the shift lever? I also have the ballcup for the shift lever, so I am guessing yes on this.

5. I have the transmission output seal (I believe that's the name) coming too. It requires a thinwall 30mm socket. I hope I can find one locally that will actually fit in the space. Will this seal come right out, or will I be picking at it for days before it finally comes out? I was stuck for three days pulling an input shaft seal on my 911 and I am hoping this will be easier.

Thanks very much people! So far all other questions have been answered by previous posts, but I may have more as I get into this procedure. This forum has already been a big help to me. Lots of information and really good attitudes.

-andrew

[DukeRimmer]

1.Check wear at main shaft end/drive shaft bush, apply grease if good.

2.Circlip tool to remove shift lever.

3.No loctite IMHO

4.Leave console, remove shift boot.

5.You probably already know there is a lock plate here. I once tried to remove the nut before the lock plate. DUH!

[andrewro]

Another question - has anybody removed the transmission support for easier access to the guibo? If so, do I need to support the transmission with a jack or jackstand?

Thanks!!

[colorobo2002]

1. The center-pieces at the front of the guibo that I see in exploded views - do I reuse what is already installed in my car? Is that what I pack with moly?

3. When reassembling, do I go ahead with the loctite 242 on the threads of the guibo bolts? What happens if I need to back them off or tighten them further? Will the loctite interfere?

4. I am replacing some shift bushings and the platform mounts. Do I need to do anything inside the car? Remove the console to get to the shift lever? I also have the ballcup for the shift lever, so I am guessing yes on this.

5. I have the transmission output seal (I believe that's the name) coming too. It requires a thinwall 30mm socket. I hope I can find one locally that will actually fit in the space. Will this seal come right out, or will I be picking at it for days before it finally comes out? I was stuck for three days pulling an input shaft seal on my 911 and I am hoping this will be easier.

Here are some answers in addition to Duke's.

1. Not sure what the exploded views show, but you'd put some grease in the hole in the driveshaft.

3. What the heck, use the loctite, it stays maleable for a while, just torque the nuts like someone had mentioned (nut to flange, not to quibo). You shouldn't have to back em off if you do em criss-crossing like when you tighten up a rim, that's what I do.

4. I'd try to get some extra washers to use as shims under the "C" clips. #2 in the attached pic. This will help reduce a lot of shifter slop. (I made some plastic washers out of a milk carton, just traced a washer w/ an exacto)

5. This part sucks to replace. What you should do is remove the lock ring and mark the shaft and flange w/ paint or whatever. There is a torque value for it, but I think it's best to just tighten it back to where it was. You'll might have to grind down the edges of the 30mm socket to fit in the flange. Shouldn't be too hard to pick out the old seal. Just be careful how deep you intall the new oil seal. The old seal may have worn a light groove in the output flange. You'd ideally want to install the new seal so that it seals on a different area of the flange. Either deeper or more shallow. Do you also have the smaller selector shaft oil seal? That was the easier one I'd mentioned to replace while you're in there. You might have a few of the old selector shaft seals in the tranny, some people like to just tap the old ones in further.

Oh yeah, no need to remove the tranny mount bracket, you'll have enough access to the quibo w/ the shifter plate, and exhaust center pipe removed.

Here's the pic:

url=http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/x/761.png

[dang]

But, if you do want to remove the shifter tower support bracket you shouldn't need to support it with anything. Although, when you remove the front tower bushings the tower will flop around some. The output seal is mounted in a cover that comes off, so you'll be able to take the seal out while its on the work bench. Based on all the stuff you're replacing, the seal shouldn't be your biggest challenge. 8-)

Dan

[andrewro]

Thanks for the help guys! Might not do the xmission seal, it is pretty clean back there. I will let you guys know what happens.