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Rear reinforcement panel has separated


Paul5801

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I began to remove the interior of my 1976 02.  Aside from finding the usual rust in the driver's side floor pan, I found that the reinforcement panel behind the rear interior panels has lifted off.  It took the sound deadening with it.  What is the best approach to getting this reattached without introducing a rust pocket.  I don't see any obvious rust behind it and the exterior panel doesn't show any obvious issues.  Would POR-15 seam and seal be good enough to reattach it? Thanks!

 

Paul

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After applying some POR 15, I would use a panel bonding glue to hold it in place       Use something to push it tight against the body panel, then use the seam sealer on the edges       I would just take that old sound deadening off        If you want to put something back on, there a few things available which are a lot more modern

 

What is that that stuff coming from the small hole at the top of the picture , looks like something from my grandkids nose!     I would clean it up before it dries and it cracks on the other side when you go to remove it

 

 

Thanks, Rick

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Thanks, @stephers!  That "snot" is body filler from the PO's attempt at filling in the waist trim holes when he decided to do the worst body and paint job.  I am cleaning this thing up slowly but surely.  The old sound deadening is all coming off and I have some rust to patch.

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The trick I found to getting the separated panel pushed back flush against your sheet metal for bonding (which is the hardest part) was to use one of those long vehicle adjustable ‘cargo’ bars.  (Basically a long straight bar with extendable threaded ends, each capped with a rubber pad).


You can easily twist it to tighten it up very snug, and you can add a block/plate under the feet to widen the holding footprint over more area of the panel.

 

Edited by visionaut
It’s called a Cargo bar…
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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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Since the panel is partially separated, I would imagine it is best to remove the whole panel?  Or can I just squeeze panel bonding epoxy behind and use @visionaut method to clamp it?  If I do need to remove the whole panel, is there any trick to removing the panel without ruining the outer body panel?

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FWIW, I didn’t remove mine.  I just rebonded the panel that partially separated on the passenger side.


If any is still bonded, it won’t be easy to peel off the sheet metal without possible distortion. Even if fully separated it doesn’t look easy to remove it in one  piece…

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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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Thanks, @visionaut  That is kinda what I figured. Is there a panel bonding adhesive that is more fluid then the rest?  Seems like 3M and SEM are the ones I have found and there are variations of each.  Is one more fluid to drip behind the panel?  

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You want a type that will spread thin with a long set time.  Impact resistance couldn’t hurt either.  And one that doesn’t require ‘fully cleaned’ surfaces.

 

I’m not sure a dripping-it-down approach will work..
 

Expect a challenge trying to work it back into the thin gap behind the panel. 

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Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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2 hours ago, visionaut said:

The trick I found to getting the separated panel pushed back flush against your sheet metal for bonding (which is the hardest part) was to use one of those long vehicle adjustable ‘cargo’ bars.  (Basically a long straight bar with extendable threaded ends, each capped with a rubber pad).


You can easily twist it to tighten it up very snug, and you can add a block/plate under the feet to widen the holding footprint over more area of the panel.

 

 

OR, a shower curtain rod from Walmart😉

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Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

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