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I don't think this carburetor should work like this??


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75 BMW 2002, Manual Transmission....

 

I had some free time today to do some wrenching, attempted to time to the BB and smooth out the idle, however I don't think that this weber 32/36 is any good.

 

Check out this video, I barely move the primary shaft from side to side ... no jokes here... lol.. and a gas is being sprayed. I'm not turning the linkage , I'm moving it from side to side.. I guess you live and learn...

 

What do you guys think?

 

LarryF_in_SoCal

 

 

Edited by larry_in_socal
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I think that shaft needs new plastic bushings.  I replaced the plastic ones on my old carb with little tiny ball bearings.  I only did the primary side, since the secondary seemed fine.  That was ten years ago and all's well.

 

It is a little bit of a pain, because you have to deal with the staked in screws and make sure the ones you put in their place are fastened securely so they don't fall out and get sucked through the intake.  Red loc-tite should do it.

 

WWW.PEGASUSAUTORACING.COM

These shaft retaining bushings seal around the throttle shafts on the 32/36 DGV carburetor and control throttle shaft thrust (end play).

 

 

WWW.PEGASUSAUTORACING.COM

Eliminate friction, wear and vacuum leaks in your Weber 32/36 DGV carburetor! The double-sealed bearings in our Throttle Shaft Bearing Kit install easily with no machining necessary.

 

TomB_in_WeWa 

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I replaced the Weber throttle shaft bushings with the Pegasus kit.

No more vacuum leaks or squirts from the accelerator pump.

Big improvement!  The Weber 32/36 had 100kmiles on it before it started to leak.

John

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Werking on Webers is fun. 

 

While you are at it, give the auxiliary venturis a wiggle and tug and make sure they're in there snug.  Sometimes they need a little shimming to get a good seal on the fuel feed side.  (mine did).

 

AUXILIARY  VENTURIS <br><font color="red">71111</font>

 

I use a little magnet when removing the tiny clip on the choke flap shaft. 

 

I've had good luck reusing the gaskets.

 

Write down which jets are installed and also the air corrector sizes and emulsion tube numbers.  


There are different float height settings for plastic vs brass floats.  

 

Have fun.  :) 

 

Tom

 

EDIT - to add, I've only worked on DGV Weber carbs.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

   

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Yep.. I finished rebuilding this DGVA-5A .. Manual Choke. but didn't replace the throttle bearings, hind sight is 2020... I have another weber carb that I can use, but it needs to be rebuilt. I'll pickup the throttle bearings and rebuilt kit and work on getting one of these carbs to fly...

 

As for my jet sizes here is what the current DGVA-5A Manual Choke has:

 

Primary Circuit

Main Jet = 140

IDLE Jet = 50

Air correction tube = 165

Emulsion tube = F50

 

Secondary Circuit

Main Jet = 135

IDLE Jet = 55

Air correction tube = 160

Emulsion tube = F6

 

Accelerator pump jet = 50

 

These are the jets that came with the used engine that I bought

 

LarryF_in_socal

 

 

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Have you compared the jets in the other carb, to see what all you have to work with? 

 

A lot of people are happy with the c.d. prescription, so you could set one up with that as sort of a base line.  I am using his jetting suggestions, aside from adding a larger air corrector on the  primary side.  I think I used a 165, but I'm not positive.  (edit, nope.  160)  My AFR gauge said it was running rich, but the larger corrector fixed that.  He is using the f50 e-tubes.

 

32/36

Float Level 40mm (for brass floats)

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55

main 170

air correction 175

 

 

 

Here is a link to his article.  It'd save a little postage to add a couple jets to your order, if you need them.

Tom

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
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Tom,

 

thanks for the info, with the two carbs here is what I have in terms of jets

 

              carb 1 - manual  , carb 2 - electric

P. main jet -     140                   140

P. IDLE jet          50                     55

P. Air Cor.        165                   170

P. Emul.             F50                  F50

______________________________________________

S. main jet        135                  140

S. IDLE jet         55                    50

S. Air Cor.         160                  160

S. Emul              F6                    F50

_______________________________________________

Acel pump      50                      50

 

_____________________________________________________

Float Level 40mm (for brass floats)   check.

PRIMARY

idle 60                                                   do not have

main 140                                               I have one.

air correction 145                                do not have

SECONDARY

idle 55                                                  I have one.

main 170                                               I have one.

air correction 175                               I do not have.

 

So I would need the following:   60 idle, 145 and 175  air corrections. I have the F50 tubes and a 165. So I'll just order some of these jets along with the rebuild kits that I order. So while the parts are on order, I'll need to direct my attention to the upper timing cover as that damn thing is leaking and the fan is whipping it up.  Its getting there.. little by little..

 

thanks for the info.

 

LarryF_in_Socal

 

 

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Tom,

 

Thanks  thanks for reminding me. Of the two carbs that i have, one is a manual choke while the other is an electric choke. The electric choke one I do believe has a larger diameter for the idle jet. thanks for reminding me.. I just checked and yes there is a difference:

 

IMG_0734.thumb.jpg.1df6996ae43e50f8bc3eb5185f52ad8f.jpg

 

I'll be sure to order the correct one(s)... I'm sure that many folks ordering jets have made this mistake before.

 

What do they say, the devil is in the details...

 

Sincerely,

 

LarryF_In_SoCal

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