MaxJax 6000lbs portable lift

[Gurtner]

wow those maxjacks look neat

 

[vacca rabite]

I've had my lift installed for a few months now (4? wow!) and here are my thoughts now that I have used it on several different cars.

 

1) the instructions have you space the posts too close together.  I have my posts spaced for a mid-size sedan as per the instructions.  While I have used it in this position to lift everything from my m416 trailer to my 4runner, the posts are too close.  Eventually I need to get more anchors and drill new holes to space the lift out a bit more.  So far only the m416 trailer is "right" at the current spacing.  Everything else (including my 914) needs to be pushed into final position or you can't get out of the car due to the posts blocking the doors.

 

2) This lift, for me, would be perfect with another 6 inches of lift.  Which you can get with the lift spacers that come with the lift.  But when you use those you can't get the lifting arms under lower cars (like my 914).   I removed the garage door motor in my shop and that extra lift would make working with a rolling stool a no-ducking deal.  Right now I need to work slightly stooped on my stool.  I could find a rolling stool that gets me a little lower, and that is likely what I will do.  

 

3) They make a version of this same lift with more holes for the safety pins.  DO NOT GET IT.  you will not use those other lift heights.  And, frankly if you do need another pin location, drill it yourself.  The other lift is several hundred dollars more, and not worth it IMHO.  And speaking of pins, on mine I had to slightly grind the upper pin holes to get the safety pin in on one side. This was a 15 minute job with a die grinder, no big deal.  Just a minor frustration.  For me, the 2 safety pins are at shoulder height and belly button height.

 

4) I want to get longer hydraulic lines for the motor and mount it to one of the posts.  I'm not crazy about the remote motor, but I totally get why they did it that way as it makes the whole thing more portable.  The valving in the pump could also be bigger.  The lift goes up slow and goes down even slower.  Glacially slow on the way down.  And speaking of the motor, it needs to be on its own circuit.  If there is any other load on the line it will sometimes trip the breaker on startup.

 

I already can't imagine continuing to work on cars without a lift.  Seriously its that much better.Even little stuff like tire changes and oil changes get done on the lift now, and I find myself annoyed if a restoration project is on the lift when I need to do an oil change or other maintenance on any of the other cars in my fleet.  I've used quick jacks, mid rise and low rise scissor jacks, etc.  This is better.  Its not as good as a full size 2 post asymmetric lift, but my shop can't support one of those (and they are EXPENSIVE).

 

 

Zach

Edited May 26, 2020 by vacca rabite

[M3M3]

33 minutes ago, vacca rabite said:

I already can't imagine continuing to work on cars without a lift. 

there is the key statement.  folks that have not used one just don't get what a game changer having one in a home shop is.  for the cost of some car mods and tires, you can work sooooo much more efficiently and safer than floor jacks and jack stands.  a lift is worth every penny if you are doing any real work on cars.

 

btw - real two post lifts are not really that much more expensive than a maxjax.  maxjax about $2k.  real two post lifts are $1.6k to $3.5k.

 

38 minutes ago, vacca rabite said:

Even little stuff like tire changes and oil changes get done on the lift now, and I find myself annoyed if a restoration project is on the lift when I need to do an oil change or other maintenance on any of the other cars in my fleet.

LOL!  same here.  i find myself organizing major work better and doing it in phases so it doesn't tie up the two post longer than needed....in order to get all the other cars in for maint.  even when wife's X3 got a nail in a tire last week, just put it up on the lift so i could work on the plug at chest level instead of taking the wheel off or lying on the ground next to the car.

[Highnote1]

So for the 02....what do you think the correct spacing is? I am concerned at being able to reach more inner targets vs. the factory pads on the weak rockers but sure would be nice to open the doors too!

[vacca rabite]

1 hour ago, Highnote1 said:

So for the 02....what do you think the correct spacing is? I am concerned at being able to reach more inner targets vs. the factory pads on the weak rockers but sure would be nice to open the doors too!

What I should have done is set the posts up, drive a car between them, mock the arms to make sure the reach okay and mark my garage there for the posts.  2002 has long doors so I suspect issues either way.  

 

With my 914 (and the 2002 once I can get it up here) pushing into final position isn't an issue.

Even the WRX can get pushed the last few inches no problem.

 

The 4Runner and I have to climb out the back.  lol.

Amusingly my daughters 04 Highlander I can actually open the door wide enough to shimmy out (but its tight).

 

My plan is to use 2 of the rear anchors as the new front points and the drill and set 3 new anchors for the back  That will give me about 5 inches more per side - and thats all the difference in the world.  AND, if I need to move it in a little for something small (like the trailer) I can.