Steering box adjustment screw

[TobyB]

1- Can you move the pitman arm on the box itself?  As in, unbolt, pull it off, move it a spline or 2 to correct it?

in working with the factory boxes, it makes a real difference in center play if you're right dead- nuts- on center...

 

2- fix your upper spring perch bearings. 

 

t

guessing on #2

[0257]

Toby, your second item rings a bell.  I had this car on stands for so long that I went ahead and changed out the strut cap bearings and springs (shorter H&Rs) at the same time as I was doing the steering box.  I labored to get that right, having read all the nightmare posts, even ordering an extra set of spacer washers, which I did not add because when I was done I didn’t have any binding or rubbing using a single set.  And as in most other respects, Zouave looked factory fresh when I pulled everything apart — no scarring or mushrooming.  Of course, the car was up on stands when I proofed my work, and only came off stands when both box and bearings were new (what’s the old voice in my head saying?  “One job at a time…”) .  Do you think that under gravity load that spacing could have changed, creating some rubbing?  I don’t hear or feel any friction ih that area, whether driving or on stands, but it might be worthwhile to insert another set of washers.  Or is there some other aspect of the job you think might be revisited?  Seems odd that resistance would only be toward the end of steering play if it’s washer clearance.

Edited June 21, 2021 by 0257

[TobyB]

My guess was that you set the car down with the wheels straight ahead,

and that you're twisting the springs to get the struts to turn.

 

Test me on this by setting the car down with the wheels turned, and see what happens...

 

t

still guessing, but those perches bear the weight of the car....

[0257]

6 minutes ago, TobyB said:

My guess was that you set the car down with the wheels straight ahead,

and that you're twisting the springs to get the struts to turn.

 

Test me on this by setting the car down with the wheels turned, and see what happens...

 

t

still guessing, but those perches bear the weight of the car....

I did set it down straight, but that was a couple hundred miles ago.  Not sure what you’re suggesting.  Are you suggesting I set it down with wheels fully turned and straighten them while looking for the springs to move independently?  That won’t happen, as I have drilled out the strut caps and hose-clamped the springs in place, where after a few hundred miles they look happy.

 

Again, there’s no noise, nor out and out roughness, anywhere inm the system.  Just increasing resistance.

 

Just now while puzzling over your meaning, I sat outside each lifted front wheel and moved it through its full range.  Within 3-4 inches of the end of the swing in each direction, there’s a bit of a break, as if the pitman arm turns free of the steering gear for a tiny bit before resuming steady pressure.  It happens about where the pitman arm goes from more tight (little lateral slop) to loose (max lateral slop), and seems even on each side.  This break is maybe a little further out on the turn than where things are when I feel initial resistance at the steering wheel, but hard to judge, really.

 

 

[Labphoto]

On 8/14/2019 at 2:57 PM, John_in_VA said:

It can reduce some of the play, but it does affect resistance through the center.  Get the front wheels off the ground, and only turn the screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn at a time.

Also make sure to turn the steering wheel about a quarter of the turn left before making the adjustment. 

[0257]

2 hours ago, 0257 said:

I did set it down straight, but that was a couple hundred miles ago.  Not sure what you’re suggesting.  Are you suggesting I set it down with wheels fully turned and straighten them while looking for the springs to move independently?  That won’t happen, as I have drilled out the strut caps and hose-clamped the springs in place, where after a few hundred miles they look happy.

 

Again, there’s no noise, nor out and out roughness, anywhere inm the system.  Just increasing resistance.

 

Just now while puzzling over your meaning, I sat outside each lifted front wheel and moved it through its full range.  Within 3-4 inches of the end of the swing in each direction, there’s a bit of a break, as if the pitman arm turns free of the steering gear for a tiny bit before resuming steady pressure.  It happens about where the pitman arm goes from more tight (little lateral slop) to loose (max lateral slop), and seems even on each side.  This break is maybe a little further out on the turn than where things are when I feel initial resistance at the steering wheel, but hard to judge, really.

 

 

Toby, in my alerts I show a further reply from you about a half hour ago.  But nothing on this page except Labphoto’s message above.

 

Just in case there was one, and it got directed out into the ether.

[0257]

26 minutes ago, Labphoto said:

Also make sure to turn the steering wheel about a quarter of the turn left before making the adjustment. 

Labphoto, I assume you’re referring to the secondary adjustmt screw/nut on top of the box.   Nuance of turning the wheel noted.  But also: I can get that as loose as I like it (lots of play in the center) without it changing the way the steering works at the far ends. So I doubt that that setting is what’s in play here.

[0257]

Pulled the tie rod on driver’s side, and roated the wheel.  Strut cap bearings are smooth as silk, just as when I first installed them.  Will do the other side for good measure.  

 

On closer inspection, the bit of resistance toward end of turn (and it was closer to the end than I recalled) was the result of the ball joint nuts grazing the control arm as the assembly swings to its terminus.  With the suspension hanging by its own weight, they just barely touch. 

 

This is all pointing toward the box, alas.

[0257]

Loosened the idler arm bushing 1/4 turn, loosened the pitman arm-to-center link nut a slot or two, repinned both and took Zouave for a drive.  Was it Einspritz who said in another post that factory setting on the idler arm’s too tight?  Einspritz for the win!  Turns are nice now.

[0257]

Loosened the idler arm bushing 1/4 turn, loosened the pitman arm-to-center link nut a slot or two, repinned both and took Zouave for a drive.  Was it Einspritz who said factory setting on the idler arm’s too tight.  Einspritz for the win!  Turns are nice now.

 

And I’m not going to lose any sleep over the difference in turning radius from one side to the other.  If I ever need to make that hard a right turn I’ll just break the rear loose.