Compression Test Results

[Columbo]

So I installed my new Ireland Engineering distributor and new Bosch Blue coil today.  I'm learning as I go so I fumbled around finding TDC on cylinder #1, got the rotor pointing at #1 and fired it up.  I set the timing by ear and then had to relocate my coil closer to the distributor due to the shortish leads on the distributor.

 

WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!  The engine runs so much smoother throughout the RPM range and has more power.   The stupid clacking I had is gone (if anyone tells you that a distributor will not make noise, I'm here to tell you it can).  Mine old dizzy had a large about of axial play, .045" if I remember correctly.

 

Tomorrow I'm going to re-gap the plugs.  Is .030 the proper gap for electronic ignition?

 

I STILL have the hiccups at idle though, making timing it with a gun tough as the ball keeps jumping around.  Unless I bought plug wires that were screwed up out of the box, I'm almost certain there is something amiss in the carb because I basically have an entire new ignition system...sigh...  The carb probably needs a rebuild anyways.

 

Is there any reason not to run premium fuel in these M10 motors?  

 

Thank you all for for the help and tips.

 

 

[Chris_B]

Which electronic ignition are you using?

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

On 2/24/2017 at 3:14 PM, jireland2002 said:

Put your timing light on each plug wire.  When it misses a beat you'll be able to see it.

 

This is a good tip.

 

I bought new wires and two were bad.  I figured they couldn't be the problem, since they were NEW.  I was wrong.

 

Bosch wires have sort of fallen out of favor.  (Mine were Bremi).  

I bought a set from Kingsborne and am happy with them.

 

 

[Columbo]

The IE distributor comes pre-loaded (LOL) with electronic ignition so I don't know what type or brand it is.  I'll try the timing light trick tomorrow.

[Chris_B]

What you are describing is an electronic points replacement (a great idea, if implemented properly), but not really an electronic ignition. The .30 suggested by JE sounds like a good place to start.

['76mintgrün'02]

I see that your car is a '75, does it still have the resistor wire connected to the coil?

(Mark's question in post #3)

Early cars used a ceramic resistor, but later ones built it into a wire.

It looks like a strand of speaker wire, which has  translucent insulation.  They have usually yellowed a bit.

 

The reason I ask is because the blue coil (usually) has built in resistance and you do not want to add the wire to that.

With a blue coil, you will want to bypass that wire; (but I would not remove it, personally, in case you want to run a black or red coil in the future).

 

1 hour ago, Columbo said:

Is there any reason not to run premium fuel in these M10 motors?

The only reason not to run premium fuel is that it costs more.  Higher compression engines need higher octane.  Tired old stock engines don't care so much.  Mine runs fine on 87 octane, which is what the local ethanol-free stuff is.

 

 

[Columbo]

It doesn't have the ballast resistor.  The IE ignitor requires a minimum of 2 ohms resistance so I think the Bosch Blue fits the bill.

 

I set the plug gaps at .030 and took it for a 10 mile drive on one of our local twisty roads.  I'm just amazed how the new dizzy and electronic points has transformed how well it runs now.  I've had this car for 6 months now and aside from the knock of the rod bearings, I always felt something was not right.  After swapping the rod bearings, I was thankful the knock was gone but still not happy with the power and smoothness when accelerating.  Now...NOW it drives like a proper BMW!  Maybe I don't have the deft touch it takes to set points but I can tell you I'm never going back to that system.

 

I hooked a timing light up to each plug wire and couldn't tell if anything was wrong with any individual wire or not.  Again, I set the timing by ear and its running great so I think I'm going to move on the the carb.  Rebuild kits for the  32/36 are less than $30 so what the hay.

 

Once the weather gets better I'll take some pictures and post them.  It's not much to look at right now with the extremely bad Fjord blue paint and ugly stained bottle cap wheels but it's a work in progress and she's beautiful to me.  New paint and Rota RB wheels are my longterm goal for the car.

 

It's Friday!  Cheers!