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Columbo

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Everything posted by Columbo

  1. Columbo
    I called Ireland Engineering and after describing the problem, they offered to send me a replacement. i didn't't even have to ask. Good on them but it also tells me it probably isn't the first call they've had.
  2. Columbo
    Another clue: With a spark plug removed from the engine and connected to the spark plug wire, I can move the ignition switch from Fhart to halt, and get a single spark at the plug. I get no spark while cranking.
  3. Columbo
    My 1975 2002 is refusing to start since I last parked it. It's got fuel going into the carb (32/36). I took the coil wire off and placed it next to some metal in the engine and as I crank, I do not see a spark...UNTIL I STOP CRANKING, and then get a single spark. I might mention it has the IE distributor with their electronic ignition pre-installed. It was running great until today. Wouldn't you know it. I just put some new Rota RB wheels on with new tires and can't take her for a spin! Please help.
  4. Columbo
    It doesn't have the ballast resistor. The IE ignitor requires a minimum of 2 ohms resistance so I think the Bosch Blue fits the bill. I set the plug gaps at .030 and took it for a 10 mile drive on one of our local twisty roads. I'm just amazed how the new dizzy and electronic points has transformed how well it runs now. I've had this car for 6 months now and aside from the knock of the rod bearings, I always felt something was not right. After swapping the rod bearings, I was thankful the knock was gone but still not happy with the power and smoothness when accelerating. Now...NOW it drives like a proper BMW! Maybe I don't have the deft touch it takes to set points but I can tell you I'm never going back to that system. I hooked a timing light up to each plug wire and couldn't tell if anything was wrong with any individual wire or not. Again, I set the timing by ear and its running great so I think I'm going to move on the the carb. Rebuild kits for the 32/36 are less than $30 so what the hay. Once the weather gets better I'll take some pictures and post them. It's not much to look at right now with the extremely bad Fjord blue paint and ugly stained bottle cap wheels but it's a work in progress and she's beautiful to me. New paint and Rota RB wheels are my longterm goal for the car. It's Friday! Cheers!
  5. Columbo
    The IE distributor comes pre-loaded (LOL) with electronic ignition so I don't know what type or brand it is. I'll try the timing light trick tomorrow.
  6. Columbo
    So I installed my new Ireland Engineering distributor and new Bosch Blue coil today. I'm learning as I go so I fumbled around finding TDC on cylinder #1, got the rotor pointing at #1 and fired it up. I set the timing by ear and then had to relocate my coil closer to the distributor due to the shortish leads on the distributor. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! The engine runs so much smoother throughout the RPM range and has more power. The stupid clacking I had is gone (if anyone tells you that a distributor will not make noise, I'm here to tell you it can). Mine old dizzy had a large about of axial play, .045" if I remember correctly. Tomorrow I'm going to re-gap the plugs. Is .030 the proper gap for electronic ignition? I STILL have the hiccups at idle though, making timing it with a gun tough as the ball keeps jumping around. Unless I bought plug wires that were screwed up out of the box, I'm almost certain there is something amiss in the carb because I basically have an entire new ignition system...sigh... The carb probably needs a rebuild anyways. Is there any reason not to run premium fuel in these M10 motors? Thank you all for for the help and tips.
  7. Columbo
    Simeon, that is really interesting and I will check for a drip as soon as I get the new distributor in. The drip theory sounds VERY plausible as its smooth for a few second and them, like you say, hiccups one or twice and then repeats. Again, I cannot tell if it is happening while normal driving but seems smooth with ok power.
  8. Columbo
    So I still have the miss. I removed the distributor (Bosch JFED 4). There is a lot of up/down play (axial??), about .045 of an inch worth. I've got awn IE distributor with electronic ignition on the way because I read somewhere the max play should be .005 of an inch. Can someone confirm this?
  9. Columbo
    Yeah, I re-adjusted the carb today. I was running a bit rich by the looks of the plugs. I took it for a drive and re-inspected them and they looked grayish brown so I think the mixture is where it should be now. This afternoon I removed both jets and blew them out. I carefully used a sewing needle to make sure all the holes were free of gunk but didn't take it for a drive due to a snow flurry passing through. I'm using NGK BP****, can't remember the number but it's what are commonly recommended on this forum. By miss, I mean the engine is smooth and then "hiccups" and it jerks in the mount. It's random in frequency. Gap of the plugs set to .024. I should be able to take it out tomorrow and will report back if cleaning the jets worked. Thanks for all the tips fellas!
  10. Columbo
    I've been troubleshooting a miss at idle. So far I have set the valves at .007, set the timing, swapped the dizzy cap and roter, points and plugs and wires, and new coil. Ive checked for vacuum leaks. I even checked the ground strap! The car runs well through the gears with a good pull. I just did a compression check with a rental unit from my local parts store and it came out: 120, 120, 115, 115. The engine was warm (not hot) and with open throttle. It is a 1975 2002 base with a Weber 32/36 (water choke) and everything else pretty much stock. Are those acceptable numbers and where to go from here? This is just a thought but if the idle jet was clogged, would it miss fire at idle but run ok while driving? And one other thing I just thought of: On the bottom of the intake manifold there is a device screwed in that has a push on wire connector...but nothing connected to it and no wire hanging anywhere.
  11. Columbo
    Yes, vacuum advance is hooked up and I changed the line for good measure. I changed the cap, rover, plugs, points, spark plug wires, set the valves, and I still get this annoying miss at idle. It's random in frequency and driving me bonkers! I don't notice it driving but it very well could be there. I will fix the axial play regardless but do you think that could be causing the miss?
  12. Columbo
    I've got a miss at idle that I've been troubleshooting. There seems to be a lot of rotational play in the dizzy shaft but I haven't been able to find any information on what, if any, is the limit. IMG_1100.MOV
  13. Columbo
    Thanks for all the tips! I got it squared away today and it looks and sounds great. Like others experience here, there were a few minor quality control issues. The muffler itself had hanger that had been removed, the weld ground down, and repositioned. Not a huge deal but there was a gouge where the grinder hit the muffler. I probably should have sent it back but whatever. Also the muffler tip was out of round and wouldn't slide into the muffler without some bending and pounding to get it round. It's still a good deal but I'm surprised IE doesn't take the last step of checking things before shipping.
  14. Columbo
    What's the abridged version of getting it installed? Front working back or back working toward the front?
  15. Columbo
    LOL, nice! I'm exhausted after figuring out said pipe puzzle positioning.
  16. Columbo
    To anyone that has installed the IE stainless exhaust, did you use any type of exhaust system dope or sealant between the sections or just use the supplied clamps?
  17. Columbo
    I checked the receipt again and it WAS done in Tacoma at a place called Progressive Automotive. This is my first 2002 so I have nothing to compare it to performance wise.
  18. Columbo
    Hello all! I bought my 1975 2002 last summer and have been working on it on and off all fall and winter. It developed a knock in cylinder #2 so I removed the front sub frame and changed the rod bearings as well as a new oil pan gasket and bushings. I haven't fired it up yet but I'm hopeful it was the bearings as the #2 was very worn. I was rummaging through some of the recipes I got from the PO (that he was give by the PPO) and on one of them it says "performance cam grind", $65. I know its nearly impossible to know exactly what was done, but can someone give me an idea what was probably done? BTW, it was done in 2010.
  19. Columbo
    Assembly lube on both sides of the rod bearing or just the journal side?
  20. Columbo
    I'm in Spokane. You?
  21. Columbo
    So I'm looking in my handy dandy Haynes manual and it states the "big end bearing running clearance" as .00090 to 00272 in. Where am I to take this measurement? I have a digital micrometer. Also, is it standard practice to change all of the bearings while I'm at it or just the bad one? Thank you for all of the replies.
  22. Columbo
    I just got the upper half out and it is even worse looking.
  23. Columbo
    Or is that groove supposed to be there in order for oil to pass?
  24. Columbo
    I removed the #2 lower rod bearing and it has a grove wore roughly down the center (see picture). The crank is shiny and smooth. What do you think? Could this tiny groove be the source of the knock? Remember that when I would unplug the #2 plug wire the knock would lessen quite a bit. The bearing has "STD" stamped on it so I guess that's a good thing, not having an over sized one put in in the past.
  25. Columbo
    E39Guy, did you have metal in your oil? Is it possible to have a shot bearing without seeing metal in the oil?
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