Columbo

Last summer my 1975 2002 developed a knock. The knock seemed to get louder when revving the engine and at a certain rpm range. I unplugged the plug wires one at a time and it would be less pronounced when the #2 wire was pulled. Fast forward to today in my cold, unheated garage. I removed the front subframe because I want to rebuild the steering box, replace some bushings and also needed to replace my leaking oil pan gasket. It was also a good time to take a look see at my bottom end rod bearings. First, there is NO metal in the oil pan, none. Second, the rod bearing have no vertical play that I can tell, just a tinyIMG_1049.MOV bit of play in the forward/aft direction. However, the timing chain, when pushing the portion in between the two gears, has about a half inch movement. Any thoughts and/or any additional checks would be much appreciated while I have the oil pan removed.

Thanks for the picture. Thats almost exactly where I have mine positioned!

Thanks for the reply, Buckeye. Along with jack stands, I placed some ramps next to them with a 4X4 running underneath and sitting on top of the ramps. If I get a floor jack, where would be a safe place to use it with the subframe removed? Now I just have to get motivated to go out in my 40 degree garage and lay on my back for a few hours!

I have a 1975 2002 and plan on checking a rod bearing for play, replacing the oil pan gasket and replacing some of the front suspension bushings. Im planning on removing the front sub frame all together even though it could probably be done with it attached. I bought one of those Harbor Freight engine support bars and was wondering if it would be safe to support the engine using only the front lift point (the one by the alternator). Also, is there an advantage if I remove the engine mounts from the engine block vs removing them from the subframe? As you can probably tell, this is the first time I've done this.

It was an automatic but was converted to manual long before I bought it. I did look around the valve train and nothing is out of sort. I was thinking about starting it with the cover off to be certain the knock isn't coming from the valve area but didn't want to spray oil everywhere. Any suggestions are still welcome.

Welp, I think it's #2. I pulled the plug wires one by one (each time shutting the engine off before pulling) and then reved the engine. The knock isn't there when the #2 wire was pulled (or at least not nearly as loud). I have never pulled an engine before and to be honest, find it intimidating to do so. So I guess I'm either jumping in with both feet and pulling it or going to try to attempt to get at it by pulling the oil pan. As posted earlier, there is no metal in the oil or in the oil filter for whatever that's worth.

Thanks Mike! I got the car in my garage and a clean workspace finally. I plan on removing the valve cover to and check what you suggested. Next I plan to remove the plugs, move each piston past TDC and carefully push down on the piston with a screwdriver to see if I can detect any play. I'll also check for loose nuts on the alternator and everywhere else. I've also been reading up on what's involved in removing the oil pan just in case I have to get to a rod bearing. I appreciate the help everyone.

I haven't pulled the wires because hate being shocked but I'll look for a thick rubber glove and give it a try. As far as the engine history goes, I've had it for two months now and the PO bought it from a guy that "rebuilt it" about 8 years ago. The engine is very clean and has no leaks. The few recipes I was given showed rings, lower end gaskets and rod bearing (it didn't specify upper or lower) and a few other things. Timing chain wasn't shown. It also listed a "performance cam grind" and valve job. Thanks for the input guys.

Seriously, engine coming out??? If it was a bad lower bearing in a rod, is it possible to get to it by removing the oil sump and getting to it from there?

Ok, heres the situation. I have a knock in my M10 engine (1975 2002). I've taken it to two reputable euro mechanics and received two different diagnosis. One took it for a drive and then called to say I have piston slap or a wrist pin thats bad. The other listened while reving the engine and immediately, without hesitation said it was a rod. When the engine is cold, I do not hear it. After warming up and under moderate acceleration, you can hear it. I can modulate the gas pedal and it seems to make its self known in a certain rpm range. It may be slightly more pronounced in first gear under acceleration. So I got her home and being concerned the engine was eating itself, drained the oil to look for metal and found none, nada. I even cut open the filter and found nothing but oil, no metal shavings. There is a great youtube video on how to find which cylinder has the bad rod but I'd love to hear what you all think before I try the test.

I jumped the gun writing guys, sorry about that. Dioxit works wonders on 42 year old connections.

While troubleshooting my erratic tachometer, I noticed my coil is a "flamethrower" 1.5 ohm coil. I have standard ignition (points and condenser). It's a 1975 2002 BTW. My tach stays at zero when idle and will jump rapidly when I rev the engine then drop to no indication again. While driving it can show no indication at all or erratic indications. The PO had electronic ignition but when I bought it had been switched back to standard ignition. The 1.5 ohm coil remained. Any ideas?

Tony, you are more brave than I am! Anyhow, the noise isn't there if I just rev the engine, only when in 2nd, 3rd ,and 4th gear with the clutch engaged.

The driveshaft has no play (other that about an 1/8" rotational), the guibo looks new and so do the bolts. There is also a new rubber bushing above the gumbo. The wheels spin freely. There is some grease around the cv joints but unless they were bone dry (which they are not) I cannot imagine they would be making such a high pitch "shhhhhh" sound. I have a strange question. Is the amount of exhaust (pressure and/or volume) the same at 3000 rpm in 1st gear as it is at 3000 rpm in forth gear? I'm beginning to wonder if it's an exhaust leak that I'm only hearing at higher pressures, i.e. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. From the headers back, it's an old exhaust system. Thank you for helping and please keep the suggestions coming.

I wrote a while back about a couple odd sounds I was trying to ID. I recently found some time to investigate a little further and here is a few new clues: I put the car on jack stands and fired it up. After triple checking the stability of the car, I got in put it in first and slowly let the clutch out. I did not hear the Shhhhhh sound. Second gear I heard it, third it was louder and fourth its a very loud SHHHHHHHHH sound. This has really got me baffled, please help.

Thanks for the input! I did do some s-turns and the whooshing sound is constant. I do have a 36mm socket so I may have to bite the bullet and just take a look at the bearings. I forgot to add in the last post I changed the diff fluid. I also forgot to mention it started it's life as an automatic and somewhere down the line was converted to a four speed manual. It shifts butter smooth but I'll change the tranny fluid tomorrow just because. The distributer is vacuum advance.

Hello all. I bought a 1975 2002 about three weeks ago and have been doing a lot of small fixes. The PO wasn't mechanical minded and I guess had no problem living with mis-aligned windows and burned out bulbs, among dozens of other things. It's actually a very solid car with just some surface rust on the corner of the trunk and a few other places. However, there are two noises that are driving me a bit batty. The first is a whooshing sound coming from the rear wheel. Applying the brakes doesn't have any effect so I ruled out a dragging pad. When I open my door going down the road, it's very noticeable. I've jacked it up and spun the wheel and other than a little resistance from the differential, it spins and I don't hear anything abnormal. I can start to hear it at about 10 MPH. Any Ideas?? The second noise is at higher RPMs under acceleration. It is a knocking noise in time with the RPMs. If I accelerate slowly I can't hear it and if I rev the motor in neutral I don't hear it. I adjusted the valves, replaced the plugs, replaced the cap and rotor, checked the oil, and had a Euro shop set the timing. (I'd say the RPM I start to hear it but my tach isn't working at the moment). The engine seems to pull strong and other than a small valve cover leak that mists the exhaust manifold, runs great. BTW, I had a 1980 635CSI Euro Spec that I sold and now have this 02 that I have to say like a lot better. It took little time at all to get under my skin!