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I Give Up... Where Is The Pedal Box Rebuild Faq Hiding

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I looked in the tech section. I searched the forums, I browsed the blogs... Maybe I'm just too old and demented... but I know there was a DIY for a pedal box rebuild in the old FAQ section and I'm darned if I can find it...

Rob S
'69 2002; '04 330i ZHP; 2018 X1; 2014 535i; 2017 340i

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Just did this the other day.  I searched "pedal box removal" and found this posted by Esty.....


How did yours go, Rob S?


Removing and Rebuilding the Pedal Box

Parts Needed:

Pedal Box rebuild kit, consisting of:

35 41 1 108 237 Throttle bushings x 2

35 41 1 108 676 Throttle lever spring

35 41 4 440 122 Gas
pedal roller

35 31 4 640 116 Clutch pedal to Master bushings x 2

35 31 4 041 718 Clutch pedal pivot bushing

35 21 4 045 707 Brake pedal pivot bushing

35 31 1 104 531 Clutch pedal return spring

35 21 1 102 383 Brake pedal Return spring

35 21 4 440 113 Clutch and brake pedal pads x 2

(THANKS: scottt in New Hampshire for the list of part numbers!)

Getting Started:

Removing the
Pedal Box has to be one of the most-dreaded operations one can perform on an '02. Probably only pulling the heater box is worse in terms of popular perception of the difficulties involved! Total time required for the operation is maybe 3 hours at most - and a truly rewarding repair!

The first time I performed this job with the motor OUT of the car - and it was still a royal PITA! I must've wasted 3 hours on a couple circlips and link rod pins. So here's the secret magical method for painlessly removing and installing the dreaded pedal box from an '02.

First off: You don't need to disassemble as much as you think you do! THAT is the secret. Pedal box bushing and spring kits are about $35.00 or so - and worth every penny!

1. Peel back carpet so you can easily reach all the
pedals, and pedal box bolts. If you've got a later 74-76 car with the one piece carpet - be prepared to go submarining under that nasty funk filled carpet with a flashlight in each nostril and wrenches in your mouth.

2. Loosen the large bolt that holds the clutch pedal to the master cylinder push rod. It's a 19mm / 13mm thing - and it SHOULD have bushings on either side. These generally crack or decompose during removal - glad you got new ones, right? Now pop off the tension spring and circlip holding the vertical rod and clevis block to the brake pedal - push pin off and through toward the left to disconnect. Sometimes this pin is stubborn - but trust me - it'll move out of the way. Don't mess with threading the clevis block unless you want to adjust pedal height. We'll save that for another sermon. Remove all the 13mm bolts that hold the bucket/box to the floor.

3. From the engine bay side - follow the pedal box as it travels up the firewall - and you'll notice it's held in place by a long fat bolt that passes through the brake booster bracket. You do NOT have to remove the bolt to remove the box (that's secret number TWO!) Since the box is slotted at the top - just loosening this nut/bolt to it's last possible thread will allow the pedal box to drop down for removal. If you remove that bolt - you'll spend the rest of the day wrestling with pivot arms, mean, miserable hidden circlips, and scaring away small garden animals as you hurl tools about the yard in primal rage.

4. Now to get under the car. If you were paying attention to the gas pedal as you popped it off, you'll see that there's a steel rod that passes through the side of the pedal box. Now's your chance to start its removal process. Loosen the 10mm nut/bolt that holds the arm lever to the pedal rod, make a note of the spring orientation, and hop back inside the car. Now - from inside the car - wiggle the pedal rod while you pull it to the LEFT - and out of the pedal box. It is NOT possible to remove the box without removing this gas pedal rod first. Trust me - I've tried it six ways from Sunday.

5. Now the hardest part of the job - removing the clutch master cylinder from the box. Reaching those 13mm nuts is a true pain. But if you remove it from the box carefully - you won't have to unhook the supply line or bleed the clutch at the end of this little trip. Plus - a loose supply hose dangling above your head is gauranteed to dribble brake fluid on your noggin! I don't know about you, but I hate brake fluid more than any thing in this world. As if it wasn't bad enough that it stings in cuts, blinds you, makes everything slippery, dissolves latex gloves and stinks; but it'll take the PAINT right off your car too- YAEECHHK!!! Horrible stuff! Treat with care!

Now there's only one obstacle holding the pedal box in: the metal brake lines where they are clamped to its side. CAREFULLY pry the tabs back, pull the lines away from the box bracket, and lower the box down. I work from under the car; guiding the clutch and brake pedals down through the hole in the firewall.

6. Once it's out - take a GOOD look at the arrangement of the clutch spring, washers, and bolt holding the pedals on. remove bolt, replace all wearable parts (springs, bushings, circlips) making sure to lubricate everything with a good (I'm a 'Moly guy myself) grease.

7. Reinstall box, clutch master (you'll cuss at the master cyl. It's OK - we all do it!) and finally the gas pedal rod. Having a buddy (thanks Tim!) push the pedal to the floor while you slide on the splined throttle shaft arm at full open throttle (at the carb) will greatly speed up the operation.

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