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73 Fjord with Megasquirt


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Ive been sidetracked! My long term project is on hold while i try to finish off someone elses unfinished project. The attraction was it needed alot less welding than the 72, it will need alot less paperwork to get it back on the road and it has a few enhancements that i like but didnt want to do to the 72 as i want to keep that 'factory'.

The plan is to get it on the road asap, leave it alone cosmetically, do what is necessary mechanicaly, not cut too many corners but not worry about origionality - and to end up with a reliable beater with a bit of hot rodding thrown in

A few pics to get the ball rolling

How all good projects arrive!

Megasquirt relay board

Megasquirt Brain

Inside Megasquirt V3.0 with MSII Board

Ford EDIS (came with coilpack, VR sensor and crankshaft toothed wheel)

Wiring nightmare

faded but untorn and complete moulded carpet

Honda Integra Seats - match the blue interior nicely

Carpets lifted to reveal floopan rust (sand is from PO sandblasting engine bay!)

Chassis rails are OK

Repair begins

New frost plug and flywheel skim on the 'to do' list

80 amp alternator

Engine and chassis numbers match

Distributor blocked off

Damage to Heater box

Wiring clean up begins

I plan to rewire keeping the origional loom intact and adding the Megasquirt/EDIS/FI wiring totally separate in its own loom

Spent most of last week seperating the looms and wire tracing and continuity checks on the original loom, good news is it hasnt been badly hacked and has all the original color coded wiring intact

More to follow!!

Edited by scanner
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  • 2 weeks later...

The heater box is fairly beaten up but the core looks ok and i need at least a demister so i have started to do a cheap but functional refurb, started with a bracket for the heater valve


I subsequently read on the forum that the valve will function supported by the hose only but i had already done most of the fabrication so on it went.

Some damage to the case meant the cables controlling the demister and footwell flaps were not attached and not opening the flaps


The problem


Bracket bent up from some 16gauge and painted with Hammerite ( Im not a big fan of Hammerite but was OK for this)


And in position, it will be rivited on, the idea is to spread the load and reduce pressure on the brittle plastic - hope it works!

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Took a trip to pickaparts and lifted about 200 hoods, came away with a few bits and pieces. BTW there are no 2002s at NZ Pickaparts and BMWs are few and far between, stiil you work with whats available


Distribution Box from a 5 series, not an E30 one but will do the job




Relay boxes from a couple of Toyota Corollas, they take Bosch type relays and i thought looked quite neat


A couple of cables from Honda Integras which i hope to adapt to acctuate the Throttle body using the 2002 Gas pedal


An assortment of Faston .250 connectors, covers and adhesive heatshrink from Digikey. Only took 3 days to arrive from the US- great service. The terminals were chosen after reading this http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html Paladin crimper is on its way purchased on Amazon last week!

I now have no excuses and need to get stuck in to mocking up the layout for the engine bay and repairing original wiring

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  • 2 weeks later...

Following the excellent FAQ heater box rebuild continues


Foam on flaps replaced with closed cell foam, red rubber grease used on flap grommets


Assembled to test cable movement - all good, success!

Mockup of wiring in engine bay


Showing relay box and Pos and Neg terminals (Battery to be trunk mounted) using modified original loom


Mocking up additional relay box and Megasquirt relay box(Cardboard version!) Plan is to run a seperate loom for Megasquirt EFI

Another trip to Pickapart - spent 2 hours removing the loom from an old Merc, not sure of the year but had lots of nice wiring that looked similar gauge and color coding to the 2002 so i now have a good supply of sutiable wire!


Mercedes wiring to be put to a better use!!


Started repairing wires that had been cut into or used as power takeoffs for additional electrical stuff. Trying to get the origional loom back to factory

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finished testing the wiring, everything works, all relays and switches function. I had to take off the ignition switch as i was getting an unreliable contact in the 'fhart' position; 2 screws at the back and it comes off without taking the keyed part off, squirted some contact cleaner through it and greased the ball bearing and works perfect now. Sorry no pictures of this


Welded on a good solid earth that i can use a jump lead on - the battery has already been relocated in the trunk by the PO.


Added an earth strap and small earth distribution box from the Merc i took the loom from, giving me a convinient point to add additional earths for the megasquirt and additional relays


Earth in trunk cleaned, may swap screw for a bolt and nut for peace of mind


Earth on heater box bolt is good


This is where i can use jumper leads, positive power distribution box is from an E36 (couldnt find an E30 one!)


First sign of life! interior light. Basically i just went through each circuit, adding fuses, checking continuity and then powering up. By the end of the weekend everything worked


Found this little NZ Native when i took the back seat out, its a Weta, harmless and very cool - ill find a place for him!


I am missing one of these, its the parking light holder for an H4 Headlight, hopefully still available from BMW


Doesnt look much different but its alive now!


Instrument console cleaned and refitted


Loom under dash tidied up and rewrapped with bias tape


And onto the next project. Brake master cylinder refurb.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finished the floor and firewall welding, as far as i can tell this is the worst of the rust and at this stage dont plan to look too hard for any more - this is going to be the daily driver so a little rust is acceptable!


Rotten metal cut away


Firewall patch formed


Took the opportunity to treat the insides of the chassis rails with Brunox rust treatment followed by a waxoil type treatment. Rails were in good condition with only surface rust on the inside


Extra plate added on the top of the rail to provide a solid base to weld the gas pedal locating nubs bracket to. Copper coloured paint is weld through primer


Final floor patch formed and holes drilled for plug welding


And welded in


Gas pedal bracket positioned and plug welded on


2 pack Epoxy primer brushed on


Seam sealed


Final coat of paint - Job done!

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  • 5 weeks later...

More progress with the tidy up of the engine bay and underfloor


Welded up some of the POs mounting holes


And added a bracket for the Hella relays


Scrubbed the underside with Simple Green


Came up pretty good i think


Brushed on seam sealer over the epoxy primer


And sprayed on rubberised underseal using a schutz gun


Wheel wells done as well, i like the grey but may spray a light coat of fjord blue to look more 'factory'


Covers my welding repairs well!


This is the stuff i used, i think its German but available in NZ from R A Johnson, goes on nice and thick and is a pretty good match visually for the factory underseal.


Next on the to do list - rub down the existing primer ready for a coat of epoxy primer


Ready for epoxy primer

Although this is to be a daily driver the opportunity to spray a clear engine bay isnt one to be missed, so i am probably lavishing more attention on this stage than i will be on other parts of the build!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The PO had put electric windows in which may have worked OK but im a great believer in the KISS principle and wanted to keep the electrics to a minimum. While dismantling the doors i discovered that both locks were non functional and some rust holes at the base of the door - project creep strikes again!

This wont be an extensive 'how to' as all i did was glean advice written by other forum members and in particular these 2 websites http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/doorlocks/doorlocks.html and http://www.my2002tii.com/may2003/may2003.htm

So onto the photos!


Removed the electric windows, i believe from a Ford Mondeo


Rust at bottom of door cut out


Patches welded in


Bottom of doors epoxy primed, stone chip undersealed and wax treated on the inside, should keep the rust at bay for a while!


Door brake seems servicable


Standard problem here, will follow Bill Williams FAQ to sort this out


Regulator well greased up, hope i haven't overdone it?


Door lock soaked in petrol to clean off crud


Then blown with compressed air and Brakeclean, replaced grommets and sprayed with a PTFE lube


Assembled out of the car


And bolted in, (rubber grease used on the grommets)


And locks refurbed as described in the website mentioned above, i also reyeyed the drivers lock to match the ignition by filing down the tumblers.

And so to reassembling the windows, i was ready for a fight here but i think i got lucky and the order i put things back in seemed to work well so for what its worth heres how i did it!


Placed rear guide in but at this stage left it loose


After mocking up on the bench with the guides, removed the guides and dropped the window into the door


Quarterlight was already in the door, snapped the front guide into the front guide rail and bolted loosely to the window.


Bolted rear guide to window


Slid regulator in and attached to window, this took a few attempts to get the right window/regulator position to allow 'docking' to take place!


Regulator was bolted up (This was after mating it with the window which allowed me a little more wriggle room)


Rear guide rail was then moved forward and bolted loosely into position


After an hour or so of adjusments the window now moves up and down smoothly, more fine tuning will follow but still a satisfying outcome


Door trim still to put on, am waiting on the U channel felt strip to come from Germany

Well thats the passenger side done, will do some other stuff before tackling the drivers side, i need a break from wrestling with greasy regulators!

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Reached an important stage in the refurb today - painting the engine bay. I went with an epoxy primer (already done) and a 2K 2 stage Basecoat/Clearcoat system. This is the first time i have used this paint system, all previous projects were with good old lacquer.


Masked up


First base coat on


Basecoat goes on flat.

I made the mistake of putting the first coat down too heavy and got a couple of runs, so i left it an hour and wet sanded the run with 600 grit and wax and grease remover, it worked perfectly. I wish i could take the credit but i You Tubed this very helpful 'How to" from a fellow Kiwi!


Basecoat finished, 3 coats and a final dropcoat, metallic looks pretty good, no 'tiger striping' fortunately





3 coats of clearcoat and the jobs done! Pretty happy with the result


Color variation

This has been the only downside to the process, the color doesnt match the bodywork! The paint i used was Spiers Hecker Permacron mixed to the Code and the color the body had been repainted by the PO is lighter than the factory color, hence the variation. Looks like a good excuse for a future respray!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Now the engine bay is painted i can start reassembly, emptying some of the cardboard boxes stored around the garage.


Pedal Box (RHD) epoxy primed, fitting was straightfoward using 3M Strip Caulk


At this point i cavity waxed areas that were easier to get at before i put anything else in,

this is top of the plenum above where the heater box sits


Wiper arms needed a cleanup


New grommets fitted


Painted and greased up


And fitted, i fitted the wipers before the heater box to make life easier,

its a tight fit in there when the heater box is fitted


Heater box and valve refurbed, new hose and stainless hoseclips


And fitted, again using 3M Strip Caulk. Now the Heaterbox is fitted i can start the interior refit


In my latest package of goodies from Walloth and Nesch were the famous 'Corn Cobs" for the doorlocks.

Fitted one and it really does make a huge difference, door closes with a satisfying Clunk now!


The company i entrusted removal of the steering box arm to managed to feck up the alloy housing making oil seal replacement difficult!

Really pissed off but dont think the oilseal was too bad anyway, it was the other seal that was leaking


Ready to rebuild steering box, using EP140 (GL4) Oil to try to minimise leaking


Cleaned and ready to assemble


Job Done, filled with oil, will check tomorrow for leaks!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Satisfying to start to see parts going back in and the piles of cardboard boxes reducing


Pedal box fitted using 3M strip caulk


Brake and Clutch master cylinders refitted


Steering box in position


Rebuilt twin servos with new hydraulic seals, i have lots of photos of disassembly and rebuild and will post in the future (After road testing to confirm success!!)


Sorting out wiring spaghetti begins


Fused relays for Horn, Low beam, High beam and (in the future) Driving lights


Laying out wiring


Crimp tool and connectors used for relays, makes a nice tight crimp


First Servo added


Some wiring wrapped and second servo added

Next up - Brake lines

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  • 3 weeks later...

More progress photos




Brake lines cleaned and reinstalled, brake/clutch reservoir added


Washer motor stripped down


Some serious oldschool over engineering here!


And installed on washer bottle, washer bottle leaked but managed to fix with careful use of a soldering iron to weld the plastic


Steering wheel installed, i have a genuine Nardi which will eventually be installed when i get the Momo to Nardi adapter.

Started stripping the ancillaries off the block, the plan is to leave the long block intact and check and replace gaskets ect as needed


Water pump had a broken stud, tried the welding a nut method - FAIL


So drilled out and collapsed thread


Stud screwed out -WIN!


Removed all core plugs


Glad i did, a couple looked close to failure


Removed Block drain plug to reveal?


What looked like solid metal, after chipping away turned out to be sludge build up.

A few more flushes of the water jacket should see it right.

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