wont start after weber rebuild

[farmorejustin]

Hey everyone.

I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV with electric choke that I just rebuilt (and triple checked everything) and set it to baseline. I haven't touched anything else since it last ran. The car apparently liked it the way it was, cause it will fire when I turn the starter, speed up when I give it gas, but once I let go of the key, it dies. almost like all the power is only on Start.

I really need this for work next week so I just might buy a new carburetor, but please let me know it there's anything I can do.

Only modification I did was the epoxying of the calibrated orifice as mentioned in the tune up write-up.

I noticed before I rebuilt, the previous owner didn't hook up the choke and somehow made the throttle plates synchronous instead of progressive. The car also never really "fast idled" and peeking at the plugs was running rich for a long time. I connected a switched 12v to the choke and fixed it via Haynes. I'm stumped. For all I know, it might not even be the carb. I added a fuel filter between the pump and the carb....maybe that? :clueless:

Thank you everyone.

[c.d.iesel]

.... bad ignition switch ? that does happen (switches do go bad)

any prior history with 'starting' difficulties ??

[farmorejustin]

No prior starting trouble at all. I have been messing around with the wiring, but not the ignition switch (i think) I can't seem to get a clear layout of how the wiring goes on the switch (the wire terminal numbers/letters); the electric diagram isn't scanned that clear. If anyone could refer me to one, that would be great.

[Gurmail]

(nt)

[c.d.iesel]

...and the ignition switch is 'sealed' - not servicable

[allbim]

Check for voltage at the + side of the coil. You don't even have to start the engine for this.

[FunkyLaneO]

resistor (wire) bad or disconnected? in the start position it bypasses the resistor to give an extra boost. If the resistor is bad or disconnected (or fried, somebody let the smoke out) that would happen.

Like the previous poster said, turn the key to the run position and test the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil, if there is no voltage then the resistor wire circuit is where I would look next, get out your test light and start working your way back until you see where the bad connection is.