farmorejustin

Hmm...did not know that about the Solex's...thanks for cluing me in. I'll just rebuild again I guess....I will look around for new throttle and choke plates... any recommended sources, mike? I shined a light over the barrels (without the choke plates) and saw a peek of it with the throttle plates closed...normal wear I suppose... Thank you c.d. for letting me know about that clutch. I haven't the slightest idea how automagics work, but I'll live with it now until I ship it off to be rebuilt somwhere (where? Bob probably knows...) I'll keep messing with it, but thank you everyone for the responses.

Well I did already use starting fluid to check for manifold/carb base leaks and resolved those and now I just remembered everything was working fine until I rebuilt the carb Now I think I did a good job rebuilding it, but now I don't think so since it's been such a headache since. Wrong place to ask, but anybody have any Solex's or 32/36s for sale cheapish? I don't have the stock air cleaner though, so I'd need one of those if a Solex....

hey everyone. i hope one of you guys can help me, but somehow i feel this isn't common. see if you've ever heard of this. I spoke to Bob about this over email, but he hadn't heard of this. So I rebuilt my 32/36 dgav just a few weeks ago (and thought it wasn't working, but it turns out I a wire came loose under the fuse box!!), replaced my spark plugs and wires, replaced my points, condenser, rotor and cap checked timing, dwell and valves, and was getting to do my idle mixture, but my engine won't stop idling all over the place. I turn the speed screw down to about 800 and it will drop anywhere from 500 all the way up to 1000 in Park and Neutral. I turned the mixture screw up and down, but it will just drop even farther and not even out. I read in the manual the tranny will surge if there isn't enough fluid, but the fluid is 3/4 up to the limit mark (not over) The reason I think it's my transmission is because ever since I bought it, shifting into selector gears will jolt the car abruptly (much like letting out the clutch too fast on a manual, violently shaking the occupants). Shifting while cruising in drive and 2nd is smooth and perfect between 1 & 2 (& 3), but getting into Drive, Reverse, or 1st gives that shake. Reverse is not quite as bad as Drive though. In gear, the idle is still variable, though lower rpm. I'm thinking it possibly could be something wrong with torque converter or clutch inside? I don't know anything about these, but maybe you guys do? They're NLA, but someone here have one maybe?

No prior starting trouble at all. I have been messing around with the wiring, but not the ignition switch (i think) I can't seem to get a clear layout of how the wiring goes on the switch (the wire terminal numbers/letters); the electric diagram isn't scanned that clear. If anyone could refer me to one, that would be great.

Hey everyone. I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV with electric choke that I just rebuilt (and triple checked everything) and set it to baseline. I haven't touched anything else since it last ran. The car apparently liked it the way it was, cause it will fire when I turn the starter, speed up when I give it gas, but once I let go of the key, it dies. almost like all the power is only on Start. I really need this for work next week so I just might buy a new carburetor, but please let me know it there's anything I can do. Only modification I did was the epoxying of the calibrated orifice as mentioned in the tune up write-up. I noticed before I rebuilt, the previous owner didn't hook up the choke and somehow made the throttle plates synchronous instead of progressive. The car also never really "fast idled" and peeking at the plugs was running rich for a long time. I connected a switched 12v to the choke and fixed it via Haynes. I'm stumped. For all I know, it might not even be the carb. I added a fuel filter between the pump and the carb....maybe that? :clueless: Thank you everyone.

*Edit: Hmmm.. that sounds really difficult but i'll give it a try and let you guys know. I'll take a picture afterward so people will know as well. This isn't just for automatics it seems. Ah! Answered here. I love this forum!

Hey everyone. So I've tried to do some searching about this but never found any specific pictures to how this goes. If this is a duplicate, sorry, but here it goes: Where do the spring that attaches to the throttle shaft hook on to? When taking it apart, I seem to remember the pointy side of the spring in the foam covering (I got rid of that and just threw some adhesive backed roofing material). I don't know and I've spend a couple days scratching my head about it. Lastly, the throttle lever when depressed says down to the floor instead of springing back up. I'm going to blame me for not tightening the clamp bolt tight enough, correct? I'm going to have to figure out how to adjust all this to spec later. any help appreciated.

Yes! I can't seem to find the "send a message" button on the forum to you, but if its in good condition (maybe fine cracks ok, if you can send a picture), email me at gmail.com farmorejustin@ thanks

Ah! Thank you so much! And just for the record (since its not very clear in the heater box rebuild write-up), the two washers both go behind the 3 rivet bracket (and grommet) on the flaps, immediately next to the foam-glued arms.

okay, i did something I shouldn't have and just disassembled the heater box without noting where everything went, and started cleaning. I know better, but I STILL should have written it down. Lesson learned... but, I noticed the defrost flap and the footwell flap rods are two different lengths and have different spots for the steel wires to go. Anyone help me out? Also there are 2 washers on the flaps...i don't remember what order they go in relation to the pivot grommet. (Flaps POR-15'd in photo) Thanks in advance.

anybody else?

My '76 didn't come with a metal frame that the headliner attaches to (rather, the previous owner lost it). It's the one that clips onto the sunroof lid using door panel clips. I'm looking for one so I can install my headliner nicely. Name your (reasonable) price and I'll get back to you. Thank you. Zip code is 46250.

Now I know a few people have these things laying around... Looking for good used one for, let's say, $50 shipped?

Very reassuring that it worked out well. Something i'll be going to do in a few weeks.

It will! send me a message with a price and I will get back to you!

One more thing I am searching for is the button to change gears. I do have parts 1 thru 4 on the diagram. I am just missing #6 Part No: 24511666350. (Unless that is an assembled unit of 1-4? I doubt it.) Thank you.

I know the buttons are available but not the copper looking contacts. I would make one, but I'd have a constant fear I'd be driving one day and the horn wouldn't shut up. I have one, but the other three are long gone. Shipping is to 46250. Thank you

I have used Quick Roof on my old Toyota truck along the firewall and floorpans. It gave the cabin a very nice....well...insulated sound (engine noise is now bass-y and deep). I also used the equivalent brand at Lowe's whatever its called and it sucked....peeled off after just a few months. The Quick Roof is still working strong. I'm going to use it in my '02. See here if you haven't already and do a channel search for sound deadening: http://www.youtube.com/brighteyefilms

The only rust in that area actually is just was is in the picture, those small holes to the right of the hole. It's very solid underneath. I just put POR-15 over the holes, put a fiberglass mat and resin over that, and POR'd again...seems very solid now. Pic below is after the first paint. Thanks for the help. Just trying to get this thing as correct as possible within budget.

Hi everyone. I'm VERY new here, but just purchased a '76 2002 automatic from Alabama earlier this May and it is my first '02. I've wanted one for a good five years, but wanted an automatic purely for convenience. I have POR-15 painted the subframe and am working on the floors (which are rusty as it has a sunroof, but I noticed this and haven't found mention of it anywhere. It is that worn bushing inside under the rear seats above the subframe mount bolt hole. (that black thing is the seat belt) Should I replace this? Where can I find it? I'm mostly just wanting to DRIVE the car again (very exciting) but it'll be in winter so doing all my stuff now so I don't have to later. Thank you in advance. Justin