1602 vs 2002tii - Newbie help needed!

[pmo]

Hi Everyone,

I have another newbie question. I am finally going to start restoring my 72tii and I am in the process of buying a donor car. I've located a 1602 and I want to use the shell then replace all the suspension/mechanicals/interior. Is there anything to watch out for and any major differences? I know the TII has brackets to hold in the air can. Anything else I should be made aware of before I make a horrible mistake.

[Mike Self]

but some of 'em can make for nagging problems.

1600s don't have front or rear swaybars, and the early 1600s don't have a provision for the mounts, so you'll need to swap front and rear subframes.

Front struts are different, as are the front spindles, brakes and master cylinder. Same with the brake booster. Rear suspension arms are boxed on the tii, not on the 1600. Pedal bucket is different--mechanical clutch linkage on the 1600, hydraulic on the 2002tii

Also, if it's an early 1600 (pre Jan 1969 assembly date) it'll have a long nose differential--different driveshaft, guibo and rear subframe (besides the diff being a 4.11 vs 3.64) Most 1600s have clear glass, a non-heated backlight and a 6 fuse electrical system; your tii will have tinted glass and a 12 fuse wiring harness--so you'll have to swap out wiring harnesses to make it really work right.

If you're stripping the 1600 to just the body shell, it's certanily doable, but you might want to look for a good 2002 shell with a 12 fuse wiring harness.

cheers

mike

[pmo]

but some of 'em can make for nagging problems.

1600s don't have front or rear swaybars, and the early 1600s don't have a provision for the mounts, so you'll need to swap front and rear subframes.

Front struts are different, as are the front spindles, brakes and master cylinder. Same with the brake booster. Rear suspension arms are boxed on the tii, not on the 1600. Pedal bucket is different--mechanical clutch linkage on the 1600, hydraulic on the 2002tii

Also, if it's an early 1600 (pre Jan 1969 assembly date) it'll have a long nose differential--different driveshaft, guibo and rear subframe (besides the diff being a 4.11 vs 3.64) Most 1600s have clear glass, a non-heated backlight and a 6 fuse electrical system; your tii will have tinted glass and a 12 fuse wiring harness--so you'll have to swap out wiring harnesses to make it really work right.

If you're stripping the 1600 to just the body shell, it's certanily doable, but you might want to look for a good 2002 shell with a 12 fuse wiring harness.

cheers

mike

My plan all along was to swap the sub frames/struts/brakes etc. In the context of a restoration I don't think that should be too much extra work. It sounds like the hardest part then is really swapping the wiring harnesses?

As a raw shell it doesn't sound like anything I didn't know, so I actually feel a bit better. I'll do some research on swapping wiring harnesses.

[M3M3]

one other thought if it makes a difference to you. it will to future owners.

you are not restoring your tii, you are putting a tii drivetrain in a 1602. technically you will not have tii anymore. the vin and shell which are the basis for the car will be forever more a 1602.

you should find another tii shell....

[c.d.iesel]

YEA! - What Marshall just said .

[pmo]

one other thought if it makes a difference to you. it will to future owners.

you are not restoring your tii, you are putting a tii drivetrain in a 1602. technically you will not have tii anymore. the vin and shell which are the basis for the car will be forever more a 1602.

you should find another tii shell....

I guess I should just use the panels from this car to save my body then?

[Mike Self]

inner rocker panels, rear wheel wells, front frame rails--all those components that are vital to body integrity and are difficult to replace--I think I'd use the 1600 shell as a donor to replace rusty/damaged stuff on your tii.

All the bolt-on parts are easy, leaving only the nose and rear panels, quarter panels and rockers as weld on exterior bits. If those panels are merely rusted vs damaged, nose and rear panel rust is usually confined to the lower sections--they can be pieced in with some MIG work (also available new, but pricy). Quarter panel rust is generally around the rear fender openings--patch panels are available for the lips, and new replacement one-piece rockers are also available.

when you're finished you'll have a "real" 2002tii, vs a 1600 with tii running gear--the former will be worth MUCH more someday when you go to sell...

cheers

mike