Engine Rebuilders

[2thosd2]

Honestly considering to deliver my block somewhere to get rebuilt (or core exchange). I did some Forum searches and came up with this list:

Jp Cadoux at A1 Imports, San Rafael

2002 Haus of San Luis Obispo

Jack Fahuna at Probimmer in Van Nuys LA

Bill Holmes of Bavarian Rennsport in San Diego

Also found these via search engine:

TopEnd Performance in North Hollywood

Bavarian Engine exchange of Rancho Cordova

Any recommendations or +1? Prefer not to travel no too far south of LA.

[layers]

Hi--

Ask Sean Casey in Petaluma [http]; he rebuilds and enhances engines from time to time and also supports FAQ & BayArea 02. I do not know his prices or schedule, however he did give me a fair price when he installed a Metric Mechanic engine in my late car a few years back.

Look at [http] for more ideas. While some of these businesses have moved or closed, most are still around in some way or form. Another possibility is Terry Tinney in Livermore [http]. Arne Carlson recommended him a few years ago (you can probably contact Arne for more details on the BayArea 02 Topica bulletin board).

Larry

[2thosd2]

Thanks Larry.

I did some calling around this morning and have realized perhaps I ought to do most of the rebuild myself. I don't have 2Grand just sitting in my sock drawer(im sure it could be money well spent). A second thought is to get a good core, rebuild that with parts and machinework from said shop, and do the assembly myself. Then when done swap the rebuilt in the car. Having a engineless car in the garage while i spend weeks playing hot wheels does not make the relatives happy

Reason to the rebuild is #2 cyl sometimes makes okay compression. I noticed that one day while dialing in the DCOEs. When I put my hand over the air horn, "hey this cylinder is hardly sucking air in!". Yes, I already adjusted the valves.

[layers]

Hi Nick--

In my opinion you should first determine where you have the problem: valves/head or rings/block. FAQ has a number of posts discussing wet/dry compression tests and leak-down tests. You should consider a few hours of professional testing a good investment to show what you need to fix (I have a Proto compression gauge, but with all the tiny details needed to get good results I'm better off letting someone like Sean Casey do a real test). Then you can scope your options and plan the costs.

I had fairly good results getting a head rebuilt after my engine spit the #4 spark plug at me. The local shop did the machine work, installed parts from Circle Tire (except Michel had business problems then, so it took a couple of months to get the proper rocker-arm shaft). He correctly told me I did not need to hone the cylinders, and the main bearings were still good. But I should have replaced the oil pump (150K on the engine and the pump worked for another 100K. But a year or so after the head it would not hold oil in the filter after shutdown; I needed a Fram PH46 oil filter, with anti-drainback valve, to prevent 2 minutes of no oil pressure at start-up). Oh, and dollar-wise I would have been better off just buying a rebuilt E12 head from Rick Haner, allowing lower compression and less ping on 91 octane fuel (hey, there was 94 octane Sunoco when I rebuilt the head...).

Your testing might also indicate poor ring sealing. I replaced the rings at head rebuild and that might be all you need. But if you have a scored or worn cylinder it could take more work (or maybe a used engine).

Larry

[2thosd2]

Right on Larry.

My engine's E12 head was sent for machining/inspection/cleanup after I had a head gasket failure last year.

I suspect bad rings, due to lots of smoke out the tailpipe at high sustained revs. Also, doing my version of poor man cylinder balance test (((unplug spark plug wire one at a time and record RPM drop; hold wire close to metal to check for ignition arc. Also put hand over each air horn to feel vaccuum))) determined #2 not compressing too great. I have actually two compression testers, but yet to bother re-run that test.

Soooo, the block is the only thing on the engine that is not newly replaced or recently machin

Just thought: When I pulled the head off, I took a peek at the cylinder walls. They were very shiney and I felt a few groovs around the walls.

[layers]

Hi Nick--

I'm not an engine machine expert, but I recall when replacing my rings at head rebuild time that my cylinders still had an obvious crosshatch (after 150k miles); it was smooth but clearly there.

Did you install new rings when you rebuilt your head? Might another design of ring seal better even without a hone or rebore? These questions are getting beyond my level of experience but simply replacing your rings, if that would solve the problem, should not be excessively expensive.

Larry

[2thosd2]

Only the E12 head was serviced in conjunction with the head gasket replacement. No rings no nuttin'. I did not see any crosshatch. Just smoooth with a few grooves. Not good.

We're on the same knowledge level here, my faq friend. I'll let you know what I find out next time I speak with a rebuilder.

[tjones02]

Terry Tinney in Livermore is an awesome machinist and works with DIYers on a regular basis.

http://www.terrytinney.com/

I don't know the SJ area well enough to recommend a machine shop in that area.

HTH,

[ptbadboy]

Hey Nick,

Just finished putting '75 engine together.

Carl Stirtz Machine shop on East 14th st, Oakland, at 22nd ave. Been doing this for over 30 years, and active racer, forgotten more than I could ever learn. Very reasonable. Will do complete heads and blocks. But won't assemble blocks., just the heads.

Cost me less that $800 for complete head rebuild, and bottom end machining, including new rod and main bearings and rings, and polishing the crank, and changing cam gear.

Nice work.

don