My 1976 2002 hot rod

[Bavarianhoarder]

In life I have always wanted a sports car. I think Ill turn my 1976 BMW 2002 into that. Being so fortunate to have one that is largely unmolested and rust free, I find it more attractive than any new car and would rather be seen in town in that than an e46 M3, which is the alternative.

Here are my thoughts for the engine:

40 DCOE's/ireland sidedraft manifold/linkage/water bypass kit

292 cam, new valves, IE HD valve springs/keepers/rocker shafts/rockers/rocker hardware

Ireland cast 90MM 9.5:1 pistons

balanced rods/crank

ground crank w/ undersized bearings

IE windage tray

ARP main bolts

IE shorty or perf header/downpipe into their SS exhaust system

If any of this is known to be silly or if I am missing anything obvious please advise.

Other plans are sport springs/biltein HD's, decent wheels/tires, maybe a 5 speed and some LSD later on in life.

Other than that the car is great reliable shape.

Any input is appreciated.

And don't worry, I race a bunch of lemons cars so I don't have to ruin this one, and I work at a place that restores vintage european race cars (www.leydonrestorations.com) so I know how to do it right.

Thanks!

[justinevert]

Looks good so far, may want to consider the following:

Lightend flywheel for quicker "spool up"

Centerforce clutch

M3 starter, half the weight of standard one.

Relocate the battery to the back and use E30 cable to the front, = better weight distribution

Tii distributor and 8MM wires

Petronix, eliminates the points/condensor

Bosch Red Coil (some debate on this)

MSD 6A spark box

320 or IE radiator, or recore the stock to a 3-row, drop the stock fan and install an IE electrical version

Get the header and down tube ceramically coated, JETHOT is the best, good price too, any muffler shop can piece together a good set up, just depends how you want to sound

Since you are rebuilding the head, port/polish with a 3 angle cut on the valve seats, and contemporary material for valve guides

I "think" the Tii water pump is better than the stock, but only read that once

If you are feeling generous, "knife edge" the crank and have that and pistons balanced

I "think" IE still has the twin hole crank bearings for increase lubrication, but need to verify.

Piston choice is good, may want to look into them coated on the skirts

For additional cooling you can add an oil cooler with an adopter plate and remote filter mount, depending on how hard you drive or how hot it gets

IE rubber engine mounts or urethance versions are an option but there will be more vibrations, BTW check the driver side engine mount for cracks, and weld in an IE engine mount plate that is a custom fit for it. easy to do with the engine is out of the car.

As for Bilsteins, the Sports are good but have a harsh ride, great for track but for daily driving can be draining. I have seen some guys put Sports on the front and HD on the back.

Lower springs, thicker sway bars and urethane bushings

Front/Rear strut braces, TEP has a rear one that holds the battery in the back

Again, if you are feeling generous Tii front struts have a bigger spindles for larger wheels (16"+) and Tii rear trailing arms are boxed = stronger. Now you can add heavy gauge sheet metal to stock ones to make them stronger and weld the seams on the front control arms if you like, IE also has a reinforcement plate that can be welded under the front sub assembly to help eliminate flexing.

Now for brakes, with stock struts you can use 320 hubs and mid-80 Volvo (yes, Volvo) calipers, for the rears you can use 320 rear drums or convert to RDB using VW (yes VW) Jetta & Passat parts (can't rememeber whichh model for which part) the rear hubs will have to be machined and you will need adopter plates (look for Eurotrash here on the sight he has a great write up), there are plans you can get here that you can take to a machine shop to have them made. I believe the newer design has the calipers in an upright position for ease of bleeding. Either version make sure the check valve that connects the rear lline is removed at the brake master to prevent the rear brakes to lock during application. Stainless steel braided brake lines on both ends of the car, You can also replace the stock brake booster with an Tii version for greater braking power.

Drivetrain? LSD 3.91 for quicker accelleration, higher revs or 3.64 for lower revs and quieter drive. Definitely a 5 speed, but will require a modified (shotened) drive shaft, shift console and shifter, IE and other verndors have those. I strongly suggest you get the 2002HAUS gear box brace, it greatly helps the alignment process. I also recommend using delvin material shifter mounts to eliminate sloppy shifting. Braided stainless steel clutch line

Redline or Royal Purple have been highly recommended for gearbox and diff, makes everything smooth shifting and quiet running

As for intake there is EFI from 3 series, ITBs ($$) or Dual Webers/Mukis, the first 2 require electric fuel pumps and mods to the gas tank pick up. Don't forget the inertia switch, if you that route you will need a tii or 320 coolant pipe. Lots of ways to go down that rabbit hole, depends on your preference. There is a ton of write ups on this subject alone.

I hope this helps, hope to get a Christmas card for IE for all the "plugging".

Justin

[rover1]

the motor sounds very do_able but will cost about $5000 also try getting your oil pan re_done by Korman they make really nice custom oil pans with crank scrapper for m10 application.

[tdk930]

I have a Korman Stage 2 motor withdual webbers that I may part with that will get you there. Drop me an email, I am in PA south of York.

Todd