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Newbie Questions


BPK2

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I wanted to introduce myself and ask a couple of questions. I just bought a 1976 BMW 2002 as a project. It needs work in quite a few areas but I got a lot of my questions answered by searching previous posts. Some of my remaining questions may sound kind of naive but I figure it is better ask them now.

1. Where is the best place to place a floor jack to lift the rear wheels. Is it under the differential?

2. The idle speed varies across quite a range each time I stop, even after the car has warmed up. It can range anywhere between 600 to 1800 rpm. The idle speed holds steady while stopped (i.e., it doesn’t fluctuate). The car has an aftermarket Weber carb. Any suggestions regarding how to correct this?

3. What kind of brake fluid is compatible with the system? I don’t want to put in the wrong kind if there is a bad type. Are any brands particularly recommended?

4. There is no heat coming out of the heater vents inside he car. The fan control works fine and the blower apparently was recently replaced. The control for the heat/defrost setting can only be moved midway and doesn’t stay there. Any suggestions on how to get heat and front defrosting back?

5. There is a spot of rust through on the driver’s side floor. Is there any particular way I should be approaching this repair?

Thanks for your help.

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Welcome to the madness.

A few quick answers-

Jacking up the rear of the car, the center of the rear subframe is ideal. Try not to put any stress on the diff itself. Could be a chance of catching the diff cover and that is aluminum. If you jack up one side of the rear, watch for the sway bar mounts and the subframe bushings.

Brake fluid- Just about any clean, NEW, DOT 3 or 4 will work. I have used Castrol LMA DOT4 for many years, and it's available in a larger container which is great for bleeding the brakes. Remember that brake fluid absorbs water and causes all kinds of issues. Use it, toss any left over. I keep a new, unopened bottle as a spare.

The heater box is a project by itself. Start by checking the heater valve. Open the hood and look under the panel on the Right side of the car. See if you can move the valve lever by hand. Watch out, because the plastic mount for the valve is brittle or already broken. See if the bowden cable is connected to the valve. Do a search on heater box and look for the cut-away drawings.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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Steve,

Thank you for your response. It was very helpful. I have heat now in my 02. I had to turn it on via the Land Rover Series I method (open the hood and open the valve directly) and still don't have defrost, but I am on my way to figuring out this part of the beast.

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1. place to jack to

2. The idle speed varies across quite a range each time I stop, even after the car has warmed up. It can range anywhere between 600 to 1800 rpm. The idle speed holds steady while stopped (i.e., it doesn’t fluctuate). The car has an aftermarket Weber carb. = inspect the gas pedal, and look at all the connectiing linkage from under the car-pedal box up to the carb. Look & feel for restrictive movement. it should spring return without resistance. Should have

return spring on the fire wall and down on outside of the pedal box for the gas pedal rod. Any binding anywhere may cause your irratic idle speed.

!!DANGER!! if the throttle sticks OPEN some day!!

3. brake fluid is compatible with the system? = yearly brake/clutch fluid flushing is important - and one should avoid mixing any brake fluids. Buy a few pints for a through flushing - so you see clear, clean fluid flowing out of all the bleeders using a clean plastic bleeder hose - DOT-4 if prefered

DO NOT USE SILICONE FLUID !!!!!

4. There is no heat coming out of the heater vents inside he car. The fan control works fine and the blower apparently was recently replaced. The control for the heat/defrost setting can only be moved midway and doesn’t stay there. Any suggestions on how to get heat and front defrosting back? = Sounds like a problem with the cable going to the hot water valve in the firewall - on the passenger side of your 'new' blower? you can rotate the water valve lever by sticking your hand into the bulkhead -

5. There is a spot of rust through on the driver’s side floor. Is there any particular way I should be approaching this repair? = inspect the entire car and evaluate all rust - one time. Your rust treatment plan depends on all areas and your ability to pay for corrective restoration. Depending on how much, and where the rust is found? you may rethink ownership. Please post photos of all your findings

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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