engine and drivetrain 72' 02-Big brake install w/new lines F/R, stock mast.cyl.?'s

[calicolorado]

Hi everyone,

I've searched the forum for a definitive answer and I have found many, but nothing that quite answers the question to my shade-tree level of ability.

I have just finished the brakes on my 72 Colorado standard '02. What I've done to my otherwise stock (non-tii) brake system is the following:

-Volvo Girling Calipers with new pads

-E21 vented rotors (new)

-Ireland stainless braided lines in front and back

-new, bent steel lines front and rear-I reused two up front and the line from the engine compartment to the rear hoses.

-new rear wheel cylinders (stock 02 drums)

-new grommets in the stock master cyl

-new blue brake hoses to reservoir

-Ate super blue brake fluid

-all reused components have been thoroughly cleaned and re-painted

Last night I bled the brakes through all 8 bleeder screws (6 up front 2 rear) following the method on the calipers: upper, inner, outer. This was the second bleeding of the fronts and the first time for the new rear whl cyls.

Checked for leaks at each wheel, made sure the vacuum hose to intake was attached then went for a little ride. I did a number of stops from up to 45mph and am concerned about the pedal travel before 'bite'. I'm 1/3rd in before I get any brakes.

Long story short, I think I likely need more diameter in the master cyl to work with the larger calipers.

If this is what I need to do, should I go with the tii or E12 master cyl? Logic says that larger calipers have greater volume and will require more fluid to push-more than the stock cyl...

Tii or E12? Or am I doing something wrong here? Clutch cylinder bleeding?

I believe I can use either of these master cyls with the stock booster, perhaps I am wrong

Thanks in advance,

Brendan

[BillWilliams]

Before you go that route, is your pedal soft or long?

Soft - will become harder with pumping (be nice now)

Long - as you describe, pedal travels a long way before braking.

Soft = air in system so bleed again

Long = most often, rear brakes need adjusted, generally tighter.

[soul]

Yes, you want a lot of drag on your rear drums. I don't know the exact amount as I do it by feel, but if you can spin the rear wheel freely, it is way too loose.

[craaaazzy]

subscribing to this thread...i've got the same issue as the initial bite happens a little later than i like. how much drag should the rears have? i've adjusted them before but may have to do it again. i did it to where the rears ever so slightly dragged (with spacers and lugs on mimic'ing rear wheel installed).

[soul]

Ever so slightly is still too soft. It's really hard to describe without an actual unit of measure. It doesn't quite feel right because you'd naturally want it to have no drag at all. But try it tight and see how you like it, then back off accordingly. I know I am being of no help at all! But try it.

[calicolorado]

Hi Bill,

It's definitely what I would call a 'long' pedal. Your statement about the rear brakes needing adjustment lit the light bulb-the rear wheels spin freely with the brakes disengaged. I thought that was the kosher way to do it, but I think I've been ed-jum-a-cated. I'll give that a shot tomorrow and post an update.

Not having to buy and install a new M/C would be nice, especially because I will probably end up draining the brake fluid all over my newly painted engine bay and suspension parts.

Thanks all for responding!

Brendan

[stultis]

After reading the first two posts. That sounds like to solution. I did back off the rear drums to let the wheels spin freely. Quick Fix. This time on the test drive I am wearing goggles!!

Kubali Shive!