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Trans cross member and rubber mount question...


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I'm replacing my worn to hell stock trans mount with one from a 320i (E21) and have 2 questions. There seems to be a difference between a '77-80 320 trans mount and a 81 and later 320 trans mount... is one better than the other? stiffer? longer wearing?

My second question is more involved... In taking out the cross member and old mount I noticed that the mount had squashed enough to allow the trans to actually contact the cross member, this should not be this way, correct? This made my engine ride low in the back/high in the front and thus my radiator and fan had a little brawl. I looked on realoem and did not see any shim or spacer that goes in there but thought I'd ask the minds of the forum about it. So is the E21 mount sturdier to prevent my fan from killing my recored radiator? Something else I need to be looking at? What could be causing my engine to sit at an angle other than that?

New motor mounts (by PO) by the way and the engine sits pretty calmly at idle, not a ton of jumping around and such.

Achtung Lieber Himmel!

1976 Rot und Schwartz daily driver "Otto Q. Gilgamesh"

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I don't know the difference between different years of 320 trans mounts. The one I installed in my car is whichever one Bavauto provides as the upgrade mount.

Whichever 320 mount you use, it will be much more effective than the stock mount. The stock mount is smaller in diameter and height.

I replaced my motor mounts at the same time as the trans mount - did so when I replaced my radiator. So I'm glad to read that your motor mounts are relatively new.

I don't know that the height of your trans mount would cause the angle of your fan to change so much that it would hit the radiator. I think it's more likely that it allowed too much forward movement of your drive train. But maybe it could.

Either way, I have no clearance issues with my Ireland aluminum radiator and new motor/trans mounts.

Once you have mounts, radiator, and fan installed you might want to take the end of one fan blade, push it forward an inch, and rotate the fan 360 degrees. Pushing it forward an inch will simulate the flex your fan will have when you are at high RPM.

If you have three new mounts and pass the 1" test I think you should have nothing to worry about.

Good luck.

Bryan

Bryan

Current: '74 tii; '05 Audi S4; '10 Triumph Scrambler; '07 Mini Cooper S convertible

Former: '11 Infiniti G37s; '10 370Z; '85 911 coupe; '01 Audi S4; '84 VW GTI; '70 VW Karmann Ghia convertible; '76 Datsun Z

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Guest Anonymous

rubber engine mounts bolt onto. Make sure there are no cracks which would allow movement despite your new engine mounts. Some cracks are difficult to see due to the black paint on the subframe. If you find cracking you will need to weld on a reinforcement plate to prevent the problem from reoccurring or replace the subframe.

shermanmartinez@hotmail.com

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Definitely install the e21 trans mount rubber---if your mounts are good the only things causing the motor to heave would be that trans mount or the lack of a limiting bracket on the right motor mount.---Brent scoyote@shaw.ca

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yea - what Brent just said - the key is having the right motor mount

travel limit stop bracket in place and almost touching the front of the rubber block - keep the motor from leaning forword - and

you just may have a car with compromised front body

work causing the alignment of the radiator to sit slightly

more towords the motor

IF your motor mounts are NOT NEW - replace them now

02motormounts.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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