lunarkingdom

I have a clear and light blue set of fuel lines running along the passenger side inner rocker panel of my 1974 2002 and I also seem to have a metal line going under the bottom of the drivers side. My question is which are for what, assuming the white and blue plastic lines are the send and return for fuel from the tank and might go through a plastic tank under the place where speakers go in the back window. Is the extra hard line on the drivers side already plumbed for fuel delivery? I had a scooter accident and can not check it at the moment but I did rip out the plastic lines they were in the way of repairing my floorboard so I am wondering if I need to replace them or if I can get away with the one hard line. Thanks!

I suggest you go buy a couple packs of 10 of the butt weld clamps from harbor freight they are the cats meow for joining all of that flat metal. Pick up some self tapping screws and some washers as the tops of the screws lack threads and without the washers will not make a tight fit. I bought their cheapest 30 dollar sand blaster and a 35 dollar half gallon of 80 grit glass beads and it was enough for the entire job, I hit all the edges where I would be overlapping and sealing (floorpan to trans tunnel) so it would not come back. I seriously think the "NAPA 4200 brushable seam sealer" was the cheapest and best seam seal solution, get 10 cheap brushes to apply it and slop it around fast, slow it just turns into boulders and looks crappy I had to get buck wild Picasso with it lol. Yours is worse than mine but if you go back and look at the first panel I replaced (worst one first) top of page 1 which was my passenger front you are very close to what I had to do minus the rocker partial replacement. The MVP panels had enough extra on the edges that while it looks a little funny it allowed me to not have to fabricate any firewall or trans tunnel pieces. Post a topic on it I will follow for sure, good luck it will turn out great all it needs is your extra time and attention. Good luck!!

These are more affordable than the other offerings I have seen and in leather too! Could you share pictures here as well as follow up when you get the fronts? I have a 74 and I need to redo all 4 seats including hand making all of the padding as mine is toast. I have been watching upholstery videos on how to use burlap to skin the tops then how to glue and sculpt the foam on YouTube but these seat covers are the 3rd part I have been waiting to see as well as find an affordable option like you have shared here, thank you very much for that! Look forward to seeing more from you! 😉

I suggest trying smaller wire (without rosin core, that's only for no gas AFAIK) and tip to match then just turn to minimum heat setting and tune your speed so it is hot but not blowing out the metal. You might be surprised how controlled your welds into thin sheet metal can be by doing that.

I found with my old Lincoln 100 from 20 years ago and rosin core wire from 2007 lol if I set it at A heat and 2 wire speed it handles 2002 sheet metal pretty darn good as long as you minimize your gaps. I have never used a TIG before but 25 years ago all they ever used were Lincoln MIG'S with gas for sheet metal so what I have is cheap and good enough for my small needs. Like you guys said, grinding is still in my future lol just have to be humble and "grind" through it. 😉

I have a center piece from a pre 74 car ready for me to splice in, you are correct.

I found an offer I could not refuse, a very nice 1974 body with major floor pan issues for a low price. I just finished the floor pan issues (see my other thread in this section of the forum) and want to proceed with building a 1969 style BMW 2002 on a budget with what I have.

I am about to swap the rear panel on my 1974 so it will accept round tail lights and am wondering for those of you who have done it, what did you have to do to make the wiring work. Before I assume it is a simple swap I would love to hear your input. Thanks!

A little slideshow recap on all the work with a short video of the inside at the end. floor pan replacement.m4v

Hey just replaced my floor pans and my old one was too far gone to save, does anyone have a replacement gas pedal metal mount with 2 pins on it I could buy from them or know where I could get one?

Day 4 (final day) I started out grinding all of the welding I had done previously on the four floor pans, took about 4 hours and boy oh boy those welds were strong as hell! I had no idea I was overkilling the welds when I put them down and I am glad because as a result those floors are solid as a rock. After grinding the inside I had to do the bottom of the pans and I was dreading it, my hands were still vibrating from all that grinding so I was super sketched out at starting it but as soon as I did, I realized it was only about an hour and a half of work so I burned on. At some point I went to NAPA and picked up some of their "NAPA 4200 brushable seam sealer", 2 cans of black rattle can primer flat black and one can of rubberized undercoat. I then cleaned up my mess and started brushing the sealer on and once I got the hang of it I went to town. It actually looks smoother when you paint it like a crazy person LOL! Once I finished off the inside, I went for it on the bottom. It took about a quart for the entire thing. I slathered it in all the cracks and went double over all the little pin holes. Went back topside when I was done and saw that I had pushed material through all the holes so I grabbed a paper towel and smooshed them all down. Next up was painting the primer on the inside, it went smooth with no issues and the sealer was already dry enough to paint so I finished it in short order. I threw some cardboard down and then hit the bottom with undercoat. Not bad if I do say so myself, I now have a very strong and well sealed floor pan in my car! Total time for the project is right around 40 hours. Now to rest before I have to go back to work on the 2nd. If anyone knows where I can score a gas pedal metal piece to weld to my new floor please let me know. I hope this helps those that need to do a similar job, its a lot of work but in the end is worth it to do it your self. Cheers!

Day 3 Finally feel like I am getting in my groove, The drivers front was a lot less work and the rear was comparable to the other side. I started by cutting them both out since the frame rail was still attached. I took care to take out the cut sections in as close to one piece that I could and used the cut pieces to scribe the new pans. I ended up nailing both of them and only had to touch them up a little bit. Pro tip, I had a bottle jack with a rectangle hole for the handle so I used a chisel in the cordless drill to move it up and down to hold the plug piece of the pan into the hole for trimming. Once they got closer to the hole size I just used butt weld clamps for everything. Those things are super clutch for this job, I went and got another set so I could do both front and back at the same time, it helped me weld a lot faster as I could do 3 spots on one then while it was cooling to the other one. Back and forth. I am pretty tired but feeling accomplished, tomorrow I will grind all the welds inside and out then touch them up and seam seal the lot off them up. Hope I get it all done but I will post my results tomorrow. PS if anyone knows where I can get a new piece for my gas pedal I would appreciate it, I need a new one mine was pretty far gone. There are a few extra pictures of its position so I can put it back as close as possible. Enjoy the pictures! 😉

Yes I did, I made good penetration when I welded from the top BUT when I looked at the bottom it looked crappy as it did not fill the bottom holes in all the way so I went down there and welded a little more. Overkill but it is all going to get slathered in seam sealer anyways once I grind all the welds down. Welder is a Lincoln electric 100 from 20 years ago with no gas and a half roll of flux core from 2007 and it works amazing if your gaps are not too wide. Settings were B and 2 for the sheet metal and after doing the first two I started welding a lot better. Once I grind it down I am sure I will have to touch up the welds but I am ok with that.

Day 2. Finished prepping then welded in the front passenger floor pan. Went pretty well I am happy with the result. Started prepping the passenger rear and got as far as welding in 90% of it. I am really enjoying the but connecter clamps from Harbor Freight, they really helped with everything. Will continue tomorrow in the morning. Updates will be posted tomorrow evening. PS Do not weld over rust converter, I had to grind it off of the welding surfaces. I googled it last night, lol!

Hey! I finally am doing work on my project car and I though I would share, this was a barn find with a great body but with some inside rust problems from a very leaky front window and no back window or sunroof insert for the last 20 years. I decided to start the work today and so far I am pleased with my progress. I want you guys to know before you look that this is a runner, not a show car but also know I am doing this to the best of my ability with what I have and whatever I need from Harbor Freight. I started on the worst floorpan, the passenger front and it was a total loss so I got to cutting. Once I was through cutting I started cleaning up all 4 edges to be ready to accept the MVP floor pans and so far my experience is that they are a little wide so I have to trim them and use the hammer a bit. I then trimmed them in slowly, my biggest concern is that the transmission tunnel was damaged all along the bottom. Lucky they make them a little taller than they were from the factory. So far I finished fitting the pan then ground all the rust and finally sand blasted everything with the cheapest sandblaster from H.F. and some 80 grit glass balls. After all that I decided to cover everything in rust converter to get whatever was left. I will update as I continue tomorrow and weld in the pan and move on to the other sections. Enjoy and please remember that I will be doing the best I can with what I have, it should last a couple decades once I seam seal it all up. I did start grinding the passenger rear and sandblasted the edges where I am going to cut and weld the rear pan in but I am not going to cut until I have the front pan welded in first for strength so I just treated the entire thing to see what happens when I grind and cut it tomorrow so don't judge me lol. I did the worst one first, the others I will probably just butt weld them in and not do the entire panel, it was brutal to do it that way but I had to on that one. I will be replacing all of the "holes" from the other floor pans as well with the MVP fake holes so they look good but never leak from below. Mine were all rotten to some degree ands were starting to leak. Some pictures for you:

Hey I am looking for a mirror attachment bar for a flag style mirror like the one below circled in red. Has to be from a flag mirror not trapezoidal as I believe they are slightly different, thank you!

Sand blast or it will come back, I have 4 pans that look like that in my car so I bought 4 new pans and am going to replace them all. I am getting too old to only fix it half way I only want to work this hard one time. That rust is mostly from the pan drains leaking, new pans are one piece and get rid of that problem.

What did it say about the last one on google? That has to be it! Nice work man!

Only interested in figuring out where the one in the pictures I posted is from, thanks.

The holes are good but the sides are different. I do believe this is the closest match but the one in the pictures I posted looks like an upgraded version of this one. Until I saw it I never considered having anything but the front bumper on my 02.

80% does look like the turbo style one but this one has different holes in front.