Santawillis

How does it look from the outside? See if the booster has any sign of fluid, usually a good sign of a bad master! Are you yanking it because you are not getting fluid at the calipers? It could be swollen lines to the calipers and drums, especially if they are original! 

I think my original set up works just fine for most of my spirited driving, a new master definitely helped.

Rafael

1 hour ago, Markwemple said:

Where's the best place to buy a rebuilt one?

I would just swing for a new one, but you can find rebuild kits and folks have had success rebuilding theirs! What does the master look like? 

I had a very unpleasant experience with the URO Master, switched to ATE and it works like a charm! 

Rafael

These look INCREDIBLE!

Final Update : Looks like the solenoid was the issue, idle is still low after spirited driving but it now holds idle. 

Rafael 

You are pretty close to me!

If it is early that is totally fine! But definitely trying to keep the carb  I will send a PM
 

Thank you everyone for your insight! Current plan is as follows in order.

1 - Adjust valve lash, maybe retorque head bolts? @TobyB what are your thoughts on that?

2 - Find new engine to prep, just like @tech71 

3 - Drive the "crap" out of the car with the current engine

4 - Once the current engine goes "poof" install new engine!

Looking forward to this adventure, and I'll keep you all posted on the progress!

As stated above! Anyone near Chicagoland have a spare engine? A late 2002 engine would be best? 

16 hours ago, TobyB said:

It's going to take more pictures of the lobes to tell you much about the cam.  But that one pic doesn't look... normal.

 

Drive the car this summer, and keep an eye on the lash.  I've taken apart motors with cams that looked good and

rockers that were a mess, and  I've made a cam with round lobes out of a bumpy one, and the rockers were fine.

So just run it.  And if things look questionable, yes, start scrounging up parts for a rebuild, a new motor, an LS swap,

whatever tickles your fancy.  Because these motors are, in fact, pretty tough IF you don't let them overheat much.

 

t

in for Cummins 4BT

Here are some further pics of the lobes, love my silicone valve cover. Please don't look at my failed header paint too long! 

A birdie told me it was going to be in the 70s tomorrow in Chicagoland! 

It happens sometimes when the car is cold, once it warms up it tends to go away. The Blackstone labs result did show some sodium present but I am not experiencing any coolant loss. We had to get the coolant system flushed several times and I am guessing it was from using the same funnel in the early days of getting the car up and running. Pic of the smoke.

It's running well I would say! A bit of blue smoke on hard acceleration 

But like others are saying it's probably from a tired bottom end and piston rings. Video from a separate question about the bubbling from the radiator. 

@Mike Self and @Son of Marty finger nail does not catch on anything on the cam itself, unfortunately I have no history on the car and what cam they used on their top end rebuild. Car sat for unknown period of time and I have been slowly getting it back on the road.  I have been running Liqui Moly classic 20W50 for the first two oil changes. Blackstone oil results have given me a good amount of zinc but not sure if it's sufficient. 

Thanks for the advice on the valve lash adjustment Mike!!!

Rafael

76 2002-240303 (1).pdf

Hello,

After getting the car running again, electics sorted, and a few shakedown runs I am finally adjusting my valve lash! After a quick look in the valve cover, it did become apparent that my cams are "blemished", for lack of a better term. 

Should I begin saving for some new cams? Am I worried for absolutely no reason? 

Appreciate you all, happy that the weather is finally turning back into spring for us up North after 4th winter.

Update: I was finally able to test the solenoid and it did operate normally once 12V was applied. I also did a deep clean on the solenoid. Once the weather improves, I will give a test drive a shot!

@'76mintgrün'02 Definitely a good call on checking the connections, I made sure all was lubricated!

Rafael

1 hour ago, Stevenc22 said:

When the engine is warm, are the choke plates fully opened at all times? they should be.

Yes, engine is warm the choke plates are wide open so the choke is working I would assume.

8 hours ago, John76 said:

What's the condition of your coil?

Sounds like it is being over-taxed trying to light the fire on a rich mixture when the secondary opens.

Just a thought ...

Coil is in good shape! Tested that as well!:)

8 hours ago, Mike Self said:

One thing  you can cross off your list:  a water choke carb doesn't need electricity unless you have an electric idle jet solenoid.  It shuts off gas flow to the idle circuit when you turn the engine off, to prevent dieseling.  

 

If you do have one of these, with the ignition on, disconnect the wire from its terminal; you should hear a distinct click.  No click = dead solenoid--or at least one that isn't grounding properly.  But if you don't have an idle jet solenoid, then your problem lies elsewhere...

 

mike

I do have one of those buggers, disconnect them and the car does not want to start at all which makes sense... Ignition on and I hear a "zap" sound but no necessary a click. This may be it!

Hello everyone,

I'm facing an issue where my car stalls whenever the RPM falls back to idle, this occurs right after the second barrel of the carburetor activates. To get it to idle properly again after startup requires quite a bit of tinkering from my end. Surprisingly, if I avoid heavily pressing the throttle, which is somewhat disappointing yet still enjoyable, the car operates smoothly and maintains a stable idle (slightly below 1,000 RPM for me currently).

I've already taken a few troubleshooting steps:

1-Verified that the carburetor is receiving a steady 12 volts.
2-Disassembled and meticulously cleaned every jet.
3-Checked for and found no vacuum leaks.
4-Adjusted the carburetor about three times, but the issue persists each time.

I'm at a bit of a loss here and would greatly appreciate any insights or solutions you might have to offer.

Thanks in advance,
Rafael

Beautiful! Excited to visit Australia in May!

Thank you all for the suggestions, here she is with 185/70/R13s Vredestein Sprint Classics! 

Finished product!

Thanks for the boost! I'm going to pop the window out and tackle the rust more thoroughly.

Really appreciate the kind advice. I'll definitely follow up with some pics! By the way, how tough do you think putting it all back together will be? I am guessing its the reverse plus some new 1/8 aluminum rivets?

Rafael

Will be embarking on some "light" rust repair while I stash away my change into a piggybank to do a full teardown and respray. Maybe in 25-30 years I will have enough

Now - I have tried the search bar and Google and found that there are two aluminum rivets securing the trim in the area I circled in red. My question is, do I have to remove that to attempt to pry loose the area in yellow?

@tzei and @'76mintgrün'02 I may pivot to a mechanical fastener, we pre-built a hole within that metal triangle piece to do that in the future. For now, it seems to be holding quite steady! Mounted it today, can't say it was not a pain to align everything. Last thing to do is the hood stud!

4 hours ago, Leucadian said:

No luck,

 

He did reach out to someone who he thought it might be, but apparently that member has a 69' 2800cs, "the first imported into the US"

 

He said that the date should be on the sticker if it's one of the older ones.

 

Good luck!

2001 is a bit ago