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ExpensiveHoby

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Posts posted by ExpensiveHoby

  1. Yeah I have a Nissan TPS that accurately gives throttle position. I don’t know enough to argue about what control philosophy is best but I know from reading lots of EFI books that alpha N works just fine unless you’re boosted. ITB need alpha N cause you can’t get a representative manifold pressure reading. 

  2. Thanks @Dudeland. I watched a bunch of the videos from Evans Performance Academy and he just uploads a base tune from file. I don't think he starts from scratch in his videos.

     

    My setup is the following

    '83 318i intake, fuel rail, injectors,

    325i throttle body

    36-1 trigger wheel from Ireland engineering

    GM style coolant and air temp sensors

    Jeep style IAC

    Bosche 4.2 UEGO O2 sensor

    MSD DIS style dual coil for wasted spark

    AEM Series 1 ECU

     

    Just looking for a base map to get the damn thing started.

    Just looking for basic alpha-N, batch injection, and wasted spark. Should be simple. AEMpro may be the most unintuitive software imaginable. No wonder no one wants to work with it anymore.

  3. Hi everyone. I was convinced by a local tuning shop to use an extra AEM ECU they had kicking around. Turns out its a series 1 and AEM no longer supports it! Of course I found this out after finishing my whole conversion. The software is beyond difficult to interpret and the manuals are terrible. If anyone knows a good tuner that could help me with a base map just to get the thing running I would be happy to pay for this service. Please help!

  4. Thanks @tech71  I did see that diagram but my measurement is giving a slightly different number. But I believe variability can be accounted for by the movement of the diff and CSB. 

     

    FYI - I would confidently alter the original prop shaft by measuring the difference in the transmissions. If the original shaft worked properly for 50 years, subtracting the difference between the transmissions at the installed guibos has to mathematically work. 

  5. What is this switch what appears to make contact with the gear selector shaft? I know its not the reverse switch as this is on the transmission itself. No electrical diagrams show anything like this.

    IMG_7326.jpg

  6. 14 hours ago, Rusty525rusty said:

    Thanks for the helpful replies. I wanted to understand I am on the right track. But had wondered if some how i was in a better position with the 240 box. Yeah I will be doing the work myself or at least that's the plan. I will get the box out on Sunday and then be able to do the same side by side comparisons. I guess I will offer the 240 box up for sizing. Then probably try to source e21 shifter mech.

    Next to find a place to shorter the prop.

    Is changing to the 3 bolt an absolute must do? My 4 bolt looks in perfect condition. Power wise i am just 100bhp, no rocket ship.

    Thanks. I will post my updates.

    The prop shaft you install needs to have the flange that matches the output of the G240 that you have regardless of what it is. Easiest thing to do is to take the prop shaft from the 2002 and get it cut to the shorter length and weld on the flange of the prop shaft that was originally mated to the G240.

  7. 18 hours ago, tech71 said:

    That would be me however, my knowledge is based on a US spec 2002, not sure how it applies to a RHD Euro spec 1502😉

    My car is a US spec 1976 2002, came stock with a Getrag 242.

    I installed a Getrag 240 from a US spec 1985 E30 318i 

    There are a few differences from the trans you have ( 2 aft mount points, no speedo drive) but I suspect the dimensions (specifically the length) will be the same .

    In my case the 240( at the output flange) was a few cm longer that the original 4 speed so a slightly shorter prop shaft was required, this is normally accomplished by shortening the cars original prop shaft and modifying it by fitting the 3 bolt flange from an E21 prop shaft to it by welding. It must also be balanced after being modified, that parts important.

    Hopefully there is a specialist shop(propellor shafts) over there that can do the work.

    There is a hack that allows you to use a Prop from an E30 but the center bearing support mount has to be modified by fabricating an extension mount.

    The E30 shaft has a sliding sleeve the can be adjusted to length.

    Thats the route I took because I had a shaft from an  US spec 85 318i E30.

    I did the entire swap in my garage, used an slightly shortened e21 shift platform, lengthened the shift rod.

    I'm  fairly well equipped for a DIYer  with compressor, welder, air tools ect.

    Are you hoping to do the swap yourself? 

    IMG_0826.JPG

    IMG_0829.JPG

    IMG_8330.JPG

     

    Can you please let us know the difference in flange lengths? Specifically the distance between the bell housing side of the two aluminum bars. I am also doing a 240 swap into my '73 and from what I have measured the difference in the length from bell housing to far side of guibo is 48mm (1.88"). This means the original prop shaft has to be shortened by 48mm.

  8. Price: $20
    Location: Ontario, Canada


    Description:

    ·         Oil Pan reinforcement - 11141277030

    ·         Oil Pan Lower – 11131277026

    ·         Oil Pan Upper – 11131278314

    ·         Dipstick – 11431286991 L=605MM

    ·         Rear Main Seal – 11121252130

    ·         Lower Timing Cover – 11141276440

    ·         Upper Timing Cover – 11140604100

    ·         Cylinder Head – 11121273918

    ·         Cylinder Head Cover – 11121270360

    ·         Connecting Rod - 11240618006

    ·         Oil Filter Head – 11421289128

    ·         Oil Pump – 11411286493

    ·         Exhaust Manifold – 11751706360

    ·         Water Pump – 11519070755

    ·         Crankshaft - 11211268006

     

    We can discuss prices. I'm not trying to make money I just needed a couple parts off the engine but the guy would only sell me the whole engine. Pictures available via text. Can clean any parts by sandblasting if wanted.

  9. Price: $500
    Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada


    Description:

    Hello All. I have come across these two little beauties in a yard of a European Car Mechanic. The sad thing is his significant collection is all going to be sold or crushed in the coming months as he's closing down the business. I had a good chat with him and committed to getting the word out to our community to try to same this stuff from the crusher. The paradox here is that he's not cheap. I know, it doesn't make sense to ask for market prices or send to the crusher but its not my yard. He has mostly E21 and E30 stuff but I saw a 2002 nose there. Good option for those of us upgrading our cars. He has a few Getrag 240s and possibly some diffs. He's not up to speed on all our 2002 lingo so he'll need easy way to identify what your looking for.

     

    I just bought off of him an entire M10B18 for the EFI conversion stuff. If anyone wants parts off that engine let me know. 1.8 Cylinder head, Large two piece oil pan, Fan clutch, Engine internals...

     

    Anyhow, I want to try to keep this stuff from the crusher so PM me your looking for something and I'll work with him to find it.

     

    Thanks.

    IMG_6209.JPG

    IMG_6207.JPG

  10. Noob here. Why do people want to install 1.8 heads on their 2002s? I have a line on an M10B18 engine but I think its too expensive for the few parts I need off of it. If I could offset my initial cost by selling the head or keeping it if someone explains why I might want to install it on my '73.

  11. When thinking long-term, I'm hesitant to want to rely on parts from other irrelevant vehicles as they are likely to all be crushed unfortunately. It seems we use Jeep for IAC, Nissan for TPS, or Cavalier TB, and Ford for EDIS. I can get away from Ford by using smart LS coils but haven't figured out the throttle body stuff yet. 

  12. On 10/2/2018 at 2:33 PM, Healey3000 said:

    Hi,

     

    With MS3 I plan on using wasted spark with four LS2 coils that sit on the valve cover (I've made a bracket for these).  No EDIS, but I am using the EDIS VR sensor because that's what the 02again wheel/bracket combo is designed for.  Agreed, setting the tooth offset is easy with MS3.

     

    MS3 also has a tach output.  I am using a 56 mH inductor to create the flyback voltage spike that the 2002 tach requires.

     

    For the fan, MS3 only needs to produce a 100 Hz PWM signal that my circuit then uses to drive the fan, so that's easy enough.

     

    Idle control is by means of a stepper motor.  I'm using a Cavalier throttle body which is far more compact than the e30 units.  It has an integrated TPS as well as an idle motor (IAC).  Despite that, and having the same bore as the M20B25 throttle body, it is about half the height.  It also has a nice cable pull cam for actuation.

    Cavalier_TB.jpg

    I'd love to know more about this throttle body. part number or model year and engine of cavalier it came off of. How did you figure out the pinout for using the sensor and motor?

  13. On 12/22/2022 at 11:08 AM, jimk said:

    Just thinking - The crankshaft seal can be set in the case bore at various depths to avoid wear rings on high mileage crank pulleys.  If the seal were to be set at the maximum depth, then the face of case forward of the seal might be machined off enough to gain space for a 1/8" thk toothed wheel fit and save the hub AC pulley sheeve.  A 1/8" thick wheel is enough for a Hall effect or a 1/2" VR sensor.

    Refer to the attached. Disregard the sensor bracket.

    Engine Mounted Bracket 01.JPG

    Couldn’t you just get a competent machinist to cut a 36-1 pattern into the OD of the inner v-belt flange of the AC pulley? Then smooth out the edges and make sure you AC compressor alignment is correct to not eat the belt. 

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