Stevenhy92

2 minutes ago, esty said:

you can just cut out the center section, where the center gill fits of your roundie nose and graft in onto the ssquare tail nose pane and no one will be the wiser....except you

I also want to do the roundie tail lights the main reason I bought the one pictured but that’s probably frowned upon haha 

As some of you read my last post about my 73 I recently purchased. With the extensive body work it needed I decided to listen to @TobyB and get a new shell and start fresh. I also appreciate everyone’s advice on my last post. I was offered to get some of the body work done by the seller on the 73 for more than what I paid for getting the new rolling shell with shipping, so it made sense to go the other route. 
 

The shell I bought is a 1975. I know the front nose is different. But could I swap everything else over? 

Seats

Door cards

Dashboard

Carpet

Windshield and rear window
headlights

grills (center grill is different right?)

Gas tank

Drivetrain

Exhaust, etc?

I can’t think of anything else right now. 
I don’t need any body/metal parts and I have my m10 out of a 76 and a 4 speed trans. 
 

Should I sell the 73 shell or part with most of the things I can? Which doesn’t seem like a lot. I’ll attach a current photo of what my 73 looks like now. I’m curious to know what I can sell it for once I take the things I need for the new shell. I know I won’t make nearly any of my money back but I’d like to retain some of it if possible. Fenders aren’t lined up, they are just bolted up to see what it looks like. It’ll come with the grills if they don’t fit the 75 and the chamoinix hood. 
 

Cheers!

3 minutes ago, jk16vturbo said:

If the ‘75 shell is one in California, I just turned it down as the floors and rear seat area at the wheel well were a little worse than originally described.  I’m just going to bite the bullet and buy the restoration design rear tire wells.  

Here’s the one I think it’s in PA. 

still need to go through some of your guys post and photos above. Thank you all for giving me solid advice. This group is so helpful compared to other communities I’ve been in. 
 

Also just realized my car is “Pinkey” after searching through the forum and I’ve seen some of you guys comment on the thread of when he crashed the car. Wish I found those post before haha..

I am considering the 75 shell on the classifieds on here and didn’t know you could convert the square tail to a Roundie until I read the posts about pinkey. Wondering how hard everything else would be? Electrical and all that? I’d still have my shop install the motor and tranny. 

15 hours ago, TobyB said:

Go shell- shopping.

 

If something good turns up, that's your answer. 

 

In the mean time, start taking

what you have apart, and see how it goes.  The nose being removed is... a bit daunting,

given that you will probably be replacing rockers, rear subframe mounting points, inner rear fenders....

it's a lot of re- creation, from the looks of it.

 

We had acquired at least 3 cars by the time I got the 'first' one 'finished'... at least one looked like that!

 

t

 

Honestly considering the shell idea now after everyones advice haha. Would all the electrical work be hard? 

22 minutes ago, MitchaPaLoOza88 said:

 

If you are going to be doing body work. Why are you putting the motor back in the car?

Its much easier to manipulate/work-on the car without the motor.

You’re right, I’m not opposed to getting most of the body work done by a shop either, so I may hold off on getting the motor installed cause it’s not a bad idea. But I do want to learn and tackle some stuff myself If I can. I did sell my truck so no car payment and I paid all my debt off in May so there’s funds for either route I go. I do want to learn though since I don’t do anything else but work lol I just want to take care of the structural stuff first so I can drive it and enjoy it even just a little bit and not wait ten years haha. 

Also, @VWJake where can I find your blogs? Thanks 

Thanks guys, I’ll thoroughly check it once it’s back from getting the motor installed and in my presence. I know I’m in over my head on this, but I do want to get it structurally safe overall and I am in no way of rushing that. Definitely going to be a learning experience ?

Hello,

Before I get into this I just want to say that this will be a lengthy post because I'm a complete idiot..

After a lot of research on what to check when buying an 02 and all. I still made the stupid mistake of NOT checking for the main rust spots. This was my first 02 buying experience and I was just overly excited and it wasn't til a few days later that I remembered to check all these spots. With that being said, I had already paid the guy for the car. So here I am, stuck with a car that needs quite a bit of body work and I need to take responsibility for being stupid. I am looking at the brighter side of things, and I keep telling myself this will be an expensive, stressful, LEARNING process, and hopefully I'll value the car more when I finish it in a million years..

Trust me, I am hating myself for this and I should've prepared a check list when I went to go look at it. I already feel stupid, so I'd appreciate just some solid advice as I have been bashing myself the last few weeks. Since then, I've been researching on here and youtube for various things. Basically how to fix rust, and other body work, also looking into seeing if there are going to be any local workshops for body work. I am willing to learn how to do it because I can only imagine the kind of money I will be paying a shop to do all the work I need done. As far as I know there is rust on the Rockers, Spare wheel well (can see right through it), rear Fenders, doors, and shock towers. I've poked around everywhere that I could remember, and the floor board from under the car seemed okay, again I could be wrong because it was hard to get all the carpet and other crap from inside to really check. 

My main question is how to go about the rear shock towers, a fellow member on here is willing to cut out his shock tower panels but we are just curious on the best way to do it (how he should go about cutting it, and me welding it in) Advise me, if you think it could just use some patch work or not. For the other stuff, I was thinking of getting replacement parts from various websites that you guys have mentioned on this forum.

Here are some of my current plans for the restoration (Give me some feedback and any other suggestions please)

1. Install replacement parts I already have (Hood, and front fenders) 

2. Buy shock tower panel cut outs, or patch work (depending on what you guys think.)

3. For the rear fenders, future plan is to add flares all around so I figured that will just be getting cut out anyways.

4. For the spare wheel well, I honestly was just thinking of doing the Garagistic E30 spare wheel well delete that they have and just keeping the spare in the trunk anyways. (Is the spare wheel well a structural piece?)

5. For the doors, I have access to a guy local with two doors in good condition for a good price. (Replace both doors or do patch work?)

6. Buy the rockers, floor panels, trunk floor, and shock tower panels and anything else needed on websites like Restoration-design, and 2002ad, etc. 

PS car is being picked up by mechanic from the sellers house and the motor is being installed in a week or two, my main goal was to get it running and enjoy the car with my family, but I also realized I need it to be structurally safe before then.

I'll create a google photos link with as many pics as I can add. 

Thanks for your feedback and I'm glad I have been able to learn quite a bit of other things on this forum. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/apmCRdGCwvNyp7AK6

I sent you a message. Thanks!

@Fortlauderdalian It's sold, sorry. Reach out to Hobie Dave on here. I believe he is getting a shipment in soon when I talked to him last week. 

Do you still have the rear shock towers by any chance?

On 3/27/2006 at 6:03 PM, esty said:

any vinyl/fabric dye at any auto parts store will also dye leather...key is cleaning...cleaning...cleaning...regardless of where you end up buying it or what brand you use

Hi Esty,

I love reading a lot of your responses on here when I am researching anything that comes to mind. I can see you are very knowledgeable! So a vinyl/fabric dye will still work on real leather? Is there any additional prep that you would recommend or follow the same steps as if it was vinyl? I do understand that thorough prep is key so I will be spending a lot of time doing that. I've just read reviews about the dye peeling and cracking shortly after on real leather. I am retrofitting leather acura integra front seats because I got them for $30 and my stock seats are trashed, so I was just curious about that. Stock 02 seats are vinyl, right?

Thanks!

13 hours ago, theNomad said:

Angle iron, a drill, a cutoff wheel or even sawzall and some nuts and bolts will put you in the ballpark.

 

Then when you buy a welder you can redo it even nicer. I don't regret buying the welder.

I centered the (1st gen Miata) seat to the steering wheel, and mounted the seat as low as I could. You might be able to tell the difference in height from the bolted to the welded mount. I had to drop the rear cross-brace to allow the seat pan to clear when slid back. The sides are made to fit between and bolt to the stock seat mounts and the seat is dropped as low as possible between these rails. A wider seat base may mean you stay above the rails therefore a higher seat.

 

That doesn't look to shabby and a fairly easy/inexpensive method. In the bottom picture, did you completely re-do it with different pieces and it looks like that one is welded? I'm a bit confused on what you mean about the sides, is that why yours aren't mounted on top of the seat rails?

13 hours ago, Reza Taheri said:

It's been a struggle for me. I got the driver side in by drilling out and removing the rails from the seat, then drilling out the rivets that were closest to the factory holes. Then it took some longer bolts, a lot of persuasion, and honestly, I have no idea how to do it again. But the seat is in securely, and the offset is barely noticeable. What IS noticeable is how much higher I am. I'm 5'8", so the height difference isn't awkward or anything, it's just a very clear difference from stock. I still haven't gotten the passenger seat in, and I've gotten a little used to the extra storage space. My seats were from a 2000 Integra, so I'm not sure if they are a little different than a 98.

I see, I guess i'm more confused on what needs to be removed from the acura seat rails and what is actually left to keep on. To be honest, this is the first time I've ever looked at the bottom of any seat for a car haha. I'm 5'5 so I'm definitely not worried about height and I've read a lot of comments about it being higher. 94-01 integra seats are all the same as far as I know. I am also thinking about sourcing integra rear seats as I've read that they fit as well just need some cutting on the frame.

On 4/10/2020 at 10:01 AM, TobyB said:

I welded to the Acura Integra seat rails, but it wouldn't have been hard to achieve

the same thing by drilling some holes and bolting it together with 6mm bolts.

 

It's been a long time, but what I recall is that the rear mount works- maybe a little bending required.

and then 1/2" square tube fit neatly inside the front of the rail, extending the rail about 3".  Then it needed 

a vertical tab down to the bolt hole, so a strip of 1/2" strap did that.  A little bending, drilling, and 3 or 4 bolts

a side would get you there in an easy morning.

 

As to centering, let me be frank for a moment.  You're not going to be centered unless you do a LOT of work.

The stock seat is offset several inches.  It bugged me for about 45 seconds- then I was so excited not to be

sliding around like a seal on a table made of butter that I forgot all about it and went driving.

 

And yes, pay nothing for E21 standard seats if you don't need seats.

 

t

planted

 

I just picked up a set of 1998 integra seats ($30) after researching on here quite a bit. I have yet to find any write ups on how to fab these up to the stock sliders. Would you happen to know where to find a solid write up on here for fab and install? Any other methods besides welding if possible? Not afraid to try anything, just looking for a reliable and easy method. Thanks!

I have a brand new ac bracket from Hobie Dave that I just received today. Just trying to retain some of the money back that I paid. I paid $108.50 Shipped. Will upload a pic when I get it from the mailbox. 

1 minute ago, jensou said:

I can take better pictures of the signals and door handles tomorrow, but I don't think they're in the best condition. I do have other door handles if you'd be interested in those.

I'll send you a message right now. Thanks

Would this fit a 73? If so, how much would shipping be to 84118?

If you do part, I would like those clear turn signals, and door handles shipped to 84118.

On 5/9/2016 at 10:26 PM, xr4tic said:

For those with the Recaros, is the seat much lower?  At 6'6", my head brushes the ceiling with the stock seats, and they're worn out, so I'm looking for a replacement that is lower.

 

I picked up a cheap set of 02 WRX seats, but the only way they would fit lower than stock, is if I cut out the floor mounts, which would be my last resort.

I know this comment is old but would you say the wrx seats would bolt up pretty easily? I’m 5’5 so I could use the extra height ? 

Hello, 

I’m looking to do an A/C setup on my 1973 and I would like to use an original evaporator with center console faceplate  and switches. If you have any of that. Price shipped to west valley city Utah, 84118. 

On 7/14/2020 at 7:27 PM, Harry Malkas said:

Price: $80

Location: Plymouth

 

Description:

 

Tii Brake Booster $550 plus shipping.

Rare Tii  Exhaust Manifold $325 plus shipping.

Tons of used parts and hundreds of used belt trim.

Nearly every part of a 2002 or 2002Tii available.  

Hello, 

I’m looking to do an A/C setup on my 1973 and I would like to use an original evaporator with center console faceplate and switches. Price shipped to west valley city Utah, 84118. Email is hysteven92@gmail.com 

10 hours ago, Crash513 said:

Bump - Price reduced to $350.  I need the room!

Would you sell Just the evaporator and center console, faceplate and dials? 

Hello, 

I’m looking to do an A/C setup on my 1973 and I would like to use an original evaporator with center console faceplate  and switches. Price shipped to west valley city Utah, 84118. 
 

thanks!