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  1. Interested in the floor pan. Can you send pics and price shipped to west valley city Utah 84118?
  2. Looking for a set to weld my coilovers to. Shipped to west valley Utah 84118.
  3. Could you tell me how you wired this? I will be making a faceplate and want to add this to it but I don’t want it on at all times. Thanks!
  4. Thank you all for the advice, I’ll keep digging and seeing what I can do to fix the cluster! Turns out I am a complete idiot and had the wrong direction on my two front wheels. Swapped them and the knocking sound went away haha. I was to excited to put the wheels on apparently.
  5. Three things, and a lengthy post.. I finally got all my LEDS and signals working properly! I took my car for a spin around my neighborhood after doing the odometer repair from the FAQ. Also tried adding a ground to the brass nuts on the back in an attempt to fix the fuel guage. Before I removed the cluster the tachometer, temp guage, as well as the speedo was working. The fuel guage needle was not working to begin with. I also broke the speedo needle while working on the odometer (my fault). After the repair, only the temp guage is working and I can't tell if the speedo is. I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer is working but the tripmeter seems to be working. The reason I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer was working is because I kept hearing a rotating, knocking sound coming from the front right suspension area. It sounded like my wheel or something was going to fall off. I have wheel spacers with studs so my aftermarket wheels can clear the strut, checked those and it seems to be okay. I'm thinking a front suspension rebuild would fix this? It's probably due for a rebuild anyways.. I'm stuck at this point, are there any other grounds I can add or any other fixes for my cluster? Are there any companies that can rebuild it, or should I just buy one in working condition? Any suggestions for the knock sound in my suspension? I've looked at the bluntech kit with the control arms and I'm thinking of going that route unless there are any other kits readily available or if I should just piece it together. Thanks to all of you, it's been great learning and trying to work on some of these things by myself and I'm not mechanically inclined whatsoever.
  6. Looking for a fully functional cluster shipped to utah 84118.
  7. is the combo gauge still available? paypal ready.
  8. Looking for these items if anyone has any for sale. I have the console surrounding but not the face. Also looking for rear shoulder seatbelt and assembly. Shipping to west valley city Utah 84118. Thanks!
  9. Still available? how much with shipping to salt lake city, utah 84118
  10. 1973 BMW 2002 VIN# 2588392 “Rebuilt/Restored” Title in hand. 61K miles on ODO. 120K miles on motor from 1976 (comes with a tii exhaust manifold). Motor and 4 speed manual trans not installed. Title is rebuilt due to a front end collision but the frame was not damaged. Previous owner acquired a front nose and welded it on. The car will come with the two fenders that are currently mocked up with a few bolts holding it in place. I have another driver side fender but it has some rust and may need some work (Also included) I have a hood in really good shape, and the trim pieces for that. Unpainted Kamei front valence, not installed. (Not sure on authenticity, came with the car) I recently purchased flat turn signals from Dion, he told me that one of the terminals stopped working but he had them running with LED’s instead. The previous owner kept everything needed to get it running except it needs a battery. I do not have the front grills for the car. There are obvious rust spots that need to be addressed. Both surface and structural rust. The interior is mostly complete but not in the best shape. Not sure what else I'm missing but feel free to text or send me a pm. Willing to sell without motor/trans also. I bought it to fix it up and enjoy, and the work needed is beyond my abilities. I would like to sell it whole, but I am willing to part out any USEFUL parts if I get no bites for a while. If I do part out, I would prefer local pickup especially for larger/heavier parts. If you really want it, I can ship it at your expense with any carrier or greyhound for price of item + material/labor to pack the item + shipping in the US only. If you’re looking for a specific mechanical part, message me with a description and picture please. I’m also very busy so it can take some time to get the parts shipped out. PAYPAL only. Interested in trades for a running Subaru, Honda, Acura, Toyota, and possibly other cars. Interested in other trades as well like airlift suspension system, 4x100 wheels (real wheels), or anything cool. A trade is as good as cash to me so let me know what you have. This is cross-posted on a few classifieds, and FB pages so bare with me if I don't respond right away. I know the price may be high so make an offer! Worst I can say is no. I just want it out of my garage so I can make room for my other cars. Asking $5000 OR BEST OFFER for everything. I know it's not in the best shape but I'm not going to entertain any bashing. Located in SLC, Utah. Can get more pics/videos on request. Feel free to PM or text me 8014949459. Thanks!
  11. That ones mine. To be fair, I did say for anyone to literally make an offer or any kind of trades haha.
  12. I’ve got a 1973. 4 speed trans, with a 1976 m10 with tii exhaust manifold. Not installed. Needs rust repair. Can send link to my google photos album so you can see more of it. Not sure what I want for it because of the condition. Willing to ship as well. No rear seat, lower body trim, door cards, and grills. Have a nice chamoinix hood and the rest of the belt trim to go with it. PM for more pics/info
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