Stevenhy92

1. I finally got all my LEDS and signals working properly!
2. I took my car for a spin around my neighborhood after doing the odometer repair from the FAQ. Also tried adding a ground to the brass nuts on the back in an attempt to fix the fuel guage. Before I removed the cluster the tachometer, temp guage, as well as the speedo was working. The fuel guage needle was not working to begin with. I also broke the speedo needle while working on the odometer (my fault). After the repair, only the temp guage is working and I can't tell if the speedo is. I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer is working but the tripmeter seems to be working.
3. The reason I didn't drive far enough to see if the odometer was working is because I kept hearing a rotating, knocking sound coming from the front right suspension area. It sounded like my wheel or something was going to fall off. I have wheel spacers with studs so my aftermarket wheels can clear the strut, checked those and it seems to be okay. I'm thinking a front suspension rebuild would fix this? It's probably due for a rebuild anyways..

Looking for a fully functional cluster shipped to utah 84118.

is the combo gauge still available? paypal ready.

Looking for these items if anyone has any for sale. I have the console surrounding but not the face. Also looking for rear shoulder seatbelt and assembly.  Shipping to west valley city Utah 84118. Thanks! 

Still available? how much with shipping to salt lake city, utah 84118

1973 BMW 2002 VIN# 2588392

“Rebuilt/Restored” Title in hand.

61K miles on ODO.

120K miles on motor from 1976 (comes with a tii exhaust manifold).

Motor and 4 speed manual trans not installed.

Title is rebuilt due to a front end collision but the frame was not damaged.

Previous owner acquired a front nose and welded it on.

The car will come with the two fenders that are currently mocked up with a few bolts holding it in place.

I have another driver side fender but it has some rust and may need some work (Also included)

I have a hood in really good shape, and the trim pieces for that.

Unpainted Kamei front valence, not installed. (Not sure on authenticity, came with the car)

I recently purchased flat turn signals from Dion, he told me that one of the terminals stopped working but he had them running with LED’s instead.

The previous owner kept everything needed to get it running except it needs a battery.

I do not have the front grills for the car.

There are obvious rust spots that need to be addressed. Both surface and structural rust.

The interior is mostly complete but not in the best shape.

Not sure what else I'm missing but feel free to text or send me a pm.

Willing to sell without motor/trans also.

I bought it to fix it up and enjoy, and the work needed is beyond my abilities. I would like to sell it whole, but I am willing to part out any USEFUL parts if I get no bites for a while. If I do part out, I would prefer local pickup especially for larger/heavier parts. If you really want it, I can ship it at your expense with any carrier or greyhound for price of item + material/labor to pack the item + shipping in the US only. If you’re looking for a specific mechanical part, message me with a description and picture please. I’m also very busy so it can take some time to get the parts shipped out. PAYPAL only.

Interested in trades for a running Subaru, Honda, Acura, Toyota, and possibly other cars. Interested in other trades as well like airlift suspension system, 4x100 wheels (real wheels), or anything cool. A trade is as good as cash to me so let me know what you have. This is cross-posted on a few classifieds, and FB pages so bare with me if I don't respond right away. 

I know the price may be high so make an offer! Worst I can say is no. I just want it out of my garage so I can make room for my other cars.

Asking $5000 OR BEST OFFER for everything. I know it's not in the best shape but I'm not going to entertain any bashing. 

Located in SLC, Utah. Can get more pics/videos on request. Feel free to PM or text me 8014949459.

Thanks!

6 hours ago, 02Les said:

Neither does $6k

 

https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/cto/d/salt-lake-city-1973-bmw-2002/7179531483.html

 

That ones mine. To be fair, I did say for anyone to literally make an offer or any kind of trades haha. 

So roughly $160 for both sides or is it $79 for the set? 

I’ve got a 1973. 4 speed trans, with a 1976 m10 with tii exhaust manifold. Not installed. Needs rust repair. Can send link to my google photos album so you can see more of it. Not sure what I want for it because of the condition. Willing to ship as well. No rear seat, lower body trim, door cards, and grills. Have a nice chamoinix hood and the rest of the belt trim to go with it. PM for more pics/info

I dyed my door cards and I’m impressed. Tried to follow everyone’s directions as carefully as possible. Do you guys use any type of sealant after? 

I have this, not sure what shipping would cost though. I also have never shipped a body panel so not sure what the best method would be. 

Could you quote me shipping on the rear bench seat to west valley city utah 84118?

I didn’t get any of these notifications ? but good to know. I really just want to transfer over as many parts as possible from the 73 shell so I don’t have to source  more parts and have my wife pissed off lol. 

Do you have any more clusters?
Pedal assembly? 

I’ve tried searching and only found eBay ads with early clusters fitting late models. Can someone confirm that I can swap them? Also looking to use my my 73 dashboard if possible. 

8 hours ago, Seb said:

Ok will do. I have two pairs of euro turn signals here but I can't ship with DHL from Germany to US since March, because of covid19. 

I hope it's possible again very soon. If so, I'll come back to you. Thanks 

I'd like to call dibs on the second pair when you are allowed to ship!

how is the condition of the windshield gasket?

Door cards with good backings?

Right and left side view mirrors?

75 tail lights?

75 complete grill?

Shift lever assembly?

On 7/31/2020 at 11:03 AM, iinca said:

I have one somebody can take for free....in similar condition. I don't plan to ever put a used windshield in my tii

Wish I was local to you..

5 hours ago, TobyB said:

Yup- starting with sound steel is NEVER a mistake.  Nose swaps aren't hard, and tail panels are pretty easy, too.

It adds a relatively small amount (12- 16 hours of metalwork)

 to the cost of a complete shell paint, and if you want roundie, NOW is the time to do it!

 

 

The later shells- especially doors, trunk floor and rear quarters- are stouter, and well worth the effort.  Be a little careful of

the details (use the 12- fuse box, and the wiring harness that goes with it, and the 12- fuse wiper motor, for example,

as the 6- fuse is VERY different) as you go, and don't be afraid to ask if something from one shell doesn't seem the same

as the other.  There were a lot of running changes, and not all of them are well documented nor make sense.

Like the dashes...

 

We really aren't even going to tool on you for that 302 if you do it very cleanly and stick 4 downdraft Webers on it.  If it's got a T5 behind it...

 

As long as it's done well, it's well- done.

 

t

medium rare

This is good information and thank you for that. So could I install my 73 dash into the 75? If not I have a source local to me with a dash I could buy. 
 

Will the diff, driveshaft, exhaust, pretty much all the components underneath.. are they all compatible between the years? 
 

Is this still available? I have a 75 being shipped in the next week or two and I'm not entirely sure which one I need. I was unaware that there were different versions of these. 

Hello, looking for the following..

passenger side view mirror

euro style front turn signals 

74-76 complete grill set

hood roundel

square tail lights

On 8/1/2020 at 3:16 PM, Mike Self said:

And we would never,ever suggest installing the 73's VIN plates on the '75 shell, because that may not be legal...

 

I'm sure there are bits and pieces from the '73, regardless of its rust situation, that you won't transfer to the '75, that someone on the FAQ can use, so before scrapping the shell...

 

mike

 

PS--you made a wise choice to get a better shell.  I spent nearly 6 years on and off welding on my '69 to reverse the ravages of 30 Ohio winters...couldn't bear to part it as it was my first (and actually only) new car.

I agree! That didn't even come to mind haha. The plan would be to sell whatever I can on the car or if someone does want the shell for cheap then i'd let it go that way as well and take my losses on the money spent. 

Thank you, it only made sense to get a rust free shell (something I should've done in the first place) for way cheaper than getting body work done. You live and you learn right? I don't have the expertise to do it all myself and taking it to a shop for just the body work does not sound nice on the wallet. 

On 8/1/2020 at 12:35 PM, esty said:

just cut and paste the tail panel out where the factor seam is...then you'll have your roundie back in action

Would this be the cutout I would need? Is there anything on the inside that I would need or watch out for? I've read that there were reinforcements or something like that on the square tails that would need to be taken into consideration.

On 8/1/2020 at 12:35 PM, PaulTWinterton said:

 

There's no frowning on this site, unless you're thinking of putting a Chevy V8 into the car.

 

A "roundie tribute" is acceptable, IMHO.

This is why I'm really enjoying this community. My local toyota community will bash anything you do that's different. Thank you for this!