albatcha

Let's not end this thread with the precedent being set that no car being auctioned or sold can be discussed on the forum, only direct questions should be sent to the seller. Bring A Trailer is not the 2002faq and it's not the place for 02 enthusiasts to discuss details with other 02 enthusiasts. I think it's fine to say whatever you want to say and not have to be required to inform every seller that you're discussing their car. It's reasonable and acceptable to be interested enough in a car to talk about it with your internet friends without being obligated seek answers from the seller. I don't think anyone who discussed this car was wrong for doing so. And for goodness sake there wasn't even a photo of the stamped VIN at the start of the listing.
 

Also Bring A Trailer is really the type of place where having a lot of photos and them being good photos will really help. No offense but this car really didn't wow me in the photos, some seemed overexposed, a little blurry, and it being overcast doesn't help either.

I think if the listing had 200 really nice detailed clear well lit photos of every important aspect of the car this forum post wouldn't have affected the auction at all.

I think the reason the notch looks strange is that it looks like it might have some kind of added trim on it that is obscuring the actual shape of where the metal is cut. Once again, if that is the case having a clear photo would have made that obvious and then it wouldn't have been a point of discussion.

Also I have a plug on the steering column cover of my 74 tii because a previous owner removed the fuel injection system and converted to a carb and hacked a big ugly hole for a choke. It looks like they tried to punch through the plastic with a hammer and a screwdriver. So even with the original column cover to the car I have a little cap there to cover the hole.

I have the trico classic 15", I got them through advance auto parts for $10 plus if you use code RMN25  you get 25% off. I scuffed them up and painted them black to match my black wiper arms. They look good/period correct and work well.

Check the shiny nuts under the wiper arm, if they are over tightened that will make the wipers move too slowly.

picture borrowed from this thread https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/153894-wiper-repairs/

I recently had trouble unlocking my passenger door, and my lock also went down easier than up. For me the top of the interior lock button was going too far down I think and when it tried to come back up through the little black grommet on the top of the door card it wasn't angled properly. When I unlocked it by opening the door with the interior handle the rod pushed the grommet up out of the door panel. Maybe your problem is similar

Thanks everyone, I went to adjust them based on your pictures and settled on this, driver side as level as possible and passenger side slightly angled up. One spline lower is definitely too low and one higher is definitely too high. Sorry about the cell phone from 2013 picture quality.

Forgive me if this has been discussed I tried searching for it and I checked the books I have but I didn't find anything. In most of the old advertisements it seems like both wiper arms are set so the blades as low as possible on the windshield, but in other photos from period magazine reviews they're usually not set that low and sometimes the passenger or driver side looks higher or lower than the other. That's also how it is on the mobile tradition restored tii, they're both higher up with the passenger side higher than the driver side. Also when I adjust it all the way low, the driver side wiper seems like it's not wiping far enough at the top of it's stroke and the passenger side does not touch the glass on the outside edge where the glass curves. This is with 15" blades. Is there a consensus on the "correct" alignment?

If you want a new single piece one it should be either from the 2002 automatic, bavaria/e3, or bavaria automatic. I used the bavaria automatic becuase it was the cheapest at the time I think 17 euros from walloth nesch but it is a little bit longer than optimal.

I think ireland engineering also sells their own specifically for 5 speed conversions

Once on an old hyundai I lifted the car to do work then after lowering it the struts were frozen in the fully extened position, it was riding high and with positive camber. When I pushed down hard on the fender it would not compress at all except for the tire. Then after driving for less than a week at some point they unstuck themselves. When you bounced the front did the suspension compress? Or did just the tires bounce.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=3991-USA-07-1979-E12-BMW-528i&mg=31&sg=10&diagId=31_0162&q=31211123434

Iit seems that the e12, e23, and e24 all use this same hub.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=5236-USA---E24-BMW-633CSi&mg=31&sg=10&diagId=31_0175&q=31211131298

And the e28 and e24 share this hub after the switch from being e12 to e28 based

The matching bearing is used on the early e12 based car's hub

And I think Son of Marty is right that the spindles are different on the early vs late cars, so I would guess it wouldn't work.

I bought my 74 tii about 10 years ago, it didn't need any rust repair in terms of cutting and welding but it did need paint. I went ahead and painted it myself, learning as I went, I spent about $1k on supplies and to see the imperfections you have to be closer than two feet, that's good enough for me. I figure if I ever want to have a $15k paint job done then after I get it done I just will have spent $16k on paint total. But for now my own paint is more than good enough for driving around town or to cars and coffee.

And the thing about doing it yourself really is true, when you're doing the stages of cutting and buffing and it starts getting shinier and looking smoother, I couldn't imagine that picking up a painted car from a body shop would feel as exciting and satisfying. When I first finished I would just go sit and look at the car for minutes on end incredulous that I had been able to do such a good paint job.

Whatever you want to do I would say do it yourself or have it done cheaply if you want, if that is good enough for you then that's all it needs to be. It can always be redone better.

This is the write up that helped me. Start in the top corner, use soap water, make sure everything is lined up  before you apply adhesive.

And I vaguely remember someone saying uro changed something about their seals recently, in my experience a new seal I ordered December 2018 fits fine.

I installed uro door seals last month, the passenger side took me fifteen minutes the get in and then since I had figured it out already the driver took five minutes. The doors didn't fully latch at first and stuck out a tiny bit but after a month they close normally and the tops don't stick out. And I didn't do any cutting or door adjusting. And the seals that were in the car previously were BMW original.

The important part is to make sure the thicker upper part doesn't go below the window frame area especially at the front of the door. And if you stretch the rubber while installing it will be too long at the bottom. But if you use soapy water liberally even when the seal is in place you can still push it back and forth or up and down to get it positioned properly.  

I'll try to find the guide that another faq member wrote which I used.

I'm looking for black wind-shield wiper arm for a 74, if it had a wind deflector that would be good but if it didn't I would still be interested. Thanks.