albatcha

I checked the resistor wire on my 74, on my car it runs all the way from the fuse box across the firewall, then ends at the terminal for the positive side of the coil, and there's a red and black wire also connected to the same terminal. I think it comes from the starter based on the schematics.

It goes through a little hole in the inner fender up to the fuse box and is connected at fuse 12 on a little secondary spade to the main fuse connection. So for a 74, assuming they're all the same as mine because I'm pretty sure the wiring is original based on the tape, you can just test it by measuring resistance from the higher side of fuse 12, like the physically higher up side toward the firewall not towards the front of the car, to the terminal on the plus side of the coil. Unless a non tii is different, this is a 74 tii to be clear.

And on my car it was reading around 3 ohms, and i need to double check but I think the version of msd ignition that was installed is not supposed to have a resistor wire, always pays to double check the work of a previous owner.

I got my malaga paint from tcp global, from their auto color library thing and it is a near perfect match to the original paint under hood and in door jams. And I don't just mean by the eye of a guy saying yeah thats about right, I mean near perfect to the eye of a designer who's career relies on correct colors.

Based on your questions I'm guessing you're also new to painting, as I was when I started my 02 and i still am. Do as much reading as you can.Watch lots of youtube videos, but also take what people say online with a grain of salt because theres a lot of misinformation and myths just like with all things online, like people talking about their favorite motor oil.

You can also spray the welded areas with something like fluid film, a spray that's for preventing rust, then just clean it off when you're ready to paint and it should be okay. and clean it off around the area you're welding to make sure it doesn't catch fire.

The stuff about the suit is right, your body absorbs chemicals through the skin just not as quickly as through your lungs, I used a 3m respirator the one with the cartridges, I think you want at least the p95 type.  TCP globals website has a lot of autobody stuff respirators and all, even if you don't buy it from there it's a decent place to see what type of stuff they sell for car painting purposes.

Theres a forum called autobody101.com which is fairly active and I found a lot of tips searching there. On google put site:autobody101.com in the search and it will only search that website.

The important part about the compressor is what is the cfm (cubic feet per minute) at what psi, the volume of air flowing at what pressure. So you need to know the psi your gun will spray at and how many cfm it requires at that psi, then you'll know if the compressor is adequate.

I mostly used an lvlp gun, low volume low presure, both referring to the volume and pressure of air flow. It was a lot slower than hvlp, and needed more work when sanding, but it was okay, and it was way less overspray in my garage.

You're also going to want to set up your air line in a way that minimizes the water content of the air. if you don't have real deal pipe set up, you can do a long hose to a big particulate filter, then from there another hose to a water separator then into the gun. Or something along those lines. Longer hose allows water to condense more and be more easily separated from the air.

If your compressor runs hot and runs a lot while spraying because it has to work hard to supply the required air, then the air coming out of the compressor will have significantly more water in it.

If you're limited by your compressor, you can make do but you will have to pay with extra hours of sanding and polishing. That's what pretty much what I did. And it still turned out pretty good for a first time full car painter, if you read and learn and are careful and patient, you can still do a really good paint job. It's a lot of work though, if you're only doing it yourself to save money I don't know if i would do it again. But if you're doing it because you want to , then I say go for it.

The picture here is after probably like 1000 hours of prep, sanding, primer, paint, sanding, cutting, buffing, polishing, waxing etc. A pro could do it faster I'm sure but when it really starts coming together at the end, that's one of the most rewarding feelings I ever had working on a car. more than any engine work or swapping parts.

Do you know your cars manufacture date, mine is March 74 and it has the inked VIN number not the perforated one. Can you actually tell that it has the perforated number under the paint.

Depending on when they switched it could be "correct" if you get a unperforated reproduction.

Definitely check getting the trailer locally and bringing it with you and back, that's always cheaper when I look and that's how I've done it when renting from uhaul.

Tires are risky, even if they look fine they can be critically damaged just from aging and how badly they've aged can be different place to place tire to tire.

I think six years was the point at which many tires started having significant sooner failures while gradually increasing the load on the tire in laboratory tests.

And do you know while sitting if the tire sat deflated for any period of time? That can also damage the structure.

Whether they knew it or not, BMW was one of many western companies who had things made in factories using Uighur prisoner labor, who were imprisoned for having an ethnicity that is not chinese enough. For crimes such as:

Owning a tent, a compass, extra food

inviting more than 5 people to your house without telling the police

sending a petition complaning about officials

not letting officials take your dna

not letting officials scan your irises

not letting officials download your phone contents

speaking with someone abroad over the internet

having whatsapp

not attending a mandatory flag raising ceremony

speaking the uighur language in school or at work

acting sad when your parents die

etc.

etc.

“Under conditions that strongly suggest forced labor, Uighurs are working in factories that are in the supply chains of at least 83 well-known global brands in the technology, clothing and automotive sectors, including Apple, BMW, Gap, Huawei, Nike, Samsung, Sony and Volkswagen,”

Not to mention that while in prison they're raped, beaten, sterilized, etc.

I also try not to buy things made in China, not because of quality, I'll gladly buy something made in Taiwan. But because the chinese government has the power to ignore human rights because we'll keep giving them our money regardless.

And the Uighurs are only the most recent group we know of who has suffered this treatment. Look up the persecution of the Falun Gong as well, and how prisoners are kept alive just until their organs are needed to be transplanted.

" Ethan Gutmann estimates 65,000 Falun Gong practitioners were killed for their organs from 2000 to 2008"

Man, this was anticlimactic. I got tired of watching so many youtube videos and I was hoping for some real exciting drama.

If the 24 year old wasn't on the policy i think it was going to be close to $200 yearly, maybe a little under.

Interesting that Hagerty wouldn't insure you because you wanted to drive whenever. I didn't check with chubb, but for me with Hagerty it's about $350 a year for my tii, at $35k, including with a 24 year old as one of the primary drivers. I think I also estimated about 2000 miles per year, but in North Carolina I don't think the law actually allows a limit on mileage with insurance if I go over. But I do think 2000 miles is realistic. And on the application I had occasional daily driver and driving whenever as stated uses.

But now I'm remembering that we have some of the lowest car insurance rates in the country here in North Carolina, and it makes a little more sense.

I dunno man, it doesn't look great. $3500? Considering the low quality of the way the seats were redone, and how a bunch of bad stuff was left bad. I'd be concerned about the quality of the respray. Seems like a possible quick and cheap respray and redo seats and flip. Personally I wouldn't even bother looking at that one, there's got to be better deals in the $15k area. Even on bring a trailer I think theres better deals.

On a low/ "no" rust car, I find that if the sound deadening is stuck solidly to the metal, there won't be any rust underneath. but if you can break off pieces where it's not stuck, like behind the back seat when the sound deadening covers a low point between two high points. That spot where its not stuck, and air and water are coming in and out, spots like that  could be hiding rust.

Slavs, I also am a person who would not like to associate with a Nazi organization, obviously because of the atrocities they commited. If that is also the type of thing which makes you not want to associate with them, I would encourage you to read deeper into the actions of the Soviet Union especially up until the death of Stalin. Because I recall you posting something about Soviet Union aircraft, in a way that I infer you would not post about Nazi military equipment.

Some good books are "The Gulag Archipelago" by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn for a very factual read. Or for more personal accounts "Let Our Fame Be Great" by Oliver Bullough is good as well. It contains a section with multiple stories from the period directly after WW2 in the Caucasus region, where forced deportations to labor camps of certain ethnicities caused death rates of 70% of the children of some entire republics.

If you can read Russian and are interested I could make many more suggestions as well.

Assuming you mean the piece that covers where the two ends of the lock strip in the gasket meet, at the bottom of the windshield.

It's been a while so I don't remember exactly, but I think while installing the lock strip I had the "clip" put on over the end as I pushed the final part of the lock strip into the gasket, then I tapped the "clip" so it slid over across and covered both ends of the lock strip.

I just put another car over yours, and it looks to me like its just the flare, the wheel center, and the bottom corners of the wheel arch matches.

1 hour ago, iinca said:

Clean build.

 

What a driving video! Not your typical BAT driving video of just pussyfooting and short shiftin' around town waste of time.

Disagree, they could've driven just as fast and accelerated just as hard without having to go in the oncoming lane, especially when they passed that car over the double yellow line right before arriving at a blind corner.

Unless you tell me that's actually a private road that was being driven on then do whatever you want. But on a public road I disapprove just as much with this as when its a leased Dodge Charger.

You're not Walter Rohrl and its not the Monte Carlo.

My preferred way to search is to go to google or duckduckgo or whatever search engine you prefer, and type

site:bmw2002faq.com and then whatever you want to search. In this case I would search, site:bmw2002faq.com m20 swap.

In my experience yes, idling for a while will get the plugs all sooted up.

3 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Ok, now that I've been schooled, I'll remove the Home Depot FE from my car. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I keep a home depot fire extinguisher in car similar to that one but I think bigger , type BC with sodium bicarbonate as the extinguishing agent. When heated, sodium bicarbonate makes water, sodium carbonate(Washing Soda), and CO2 gas which is the fire extinguishing part so its theoretically relatively harmless in terms of corrosion.

But I agree with many others on the main point, if its a big fire let it burn.

10 hours ago, Slavs said:

 

 

When the +1 14" and +2 15" wheels became readily available during the late 80s and early 90s, many people were throwing away wheels like this. They were no longer in vogue. That includes the Campagnolos, Cromadoras and others. That is one of the reasons they are hard to find. They ended up in the wrecking yards where most 02s and many other classics met their demise. That was sad. I've noticed, though, that the 13" wheels survived in Europe where there are more of them.

 

 

At least in Germany this is probably because of their strict rules about car modification, when you change the wheels on your 1600, you would want a copy of the certificate from Ronal  who paid to have them Abe or tuv approved for your model of car. Without that certificate it would not be easy to pass inspection.

On 2/6/2020 at 10:36 PM, fjord-tii said:

Do not use a rattle can finish. You need a catalyzed paint. You can color code to pretty close to factory color code at mail order stores. Even if you don’t have the perfect spray rig (check out Harbor Freight), it will last longer than what is in a spray can. Check out https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/classic-library. Two-stage will be much more durable.

I repainted my whole cars exterior with paint I got from this website, tcp global, and it matches the original extremely well. I did touch up in the hood and trunk just by using the leftover with art paintbrushes. I just mixed a small amount in a mixing cup then brushed it on and it looks fine, for small spots like that you don't notice that it's not a mirror smooth spray paint job.

I use it once every couple years to fix a leak on a damaged flange on my old taurus that I don't want to fix the real way.

The muffler cement stuff is very brittle when dry, and it doesn't hold that strongly, it can be chipped off with a flathead screwdriver by hand. And if there is any residue thats hard to chip off it can be ground, sanded, or filed off very easily.

This person did.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/236720-corbeau-gts-ii’s-for-sale /

I don't think you should use stainless steel fasteners, stainless steel will create a bridge with normal steel and cause corrosion. So if there is any exposed metal at all under the stainless fastener it may rust. Depending on the type of stainless steel it may be faster or slower. And I have personally found that often holes in body panels with bolts and screws going through are points where the paint will be damaged.

Tip for searching the forum on google, since a few people mentioned tips but not ones as good as this one, also works on duckduckgo if thats the search engine you like to use.

 put "site:bmw2002faq.com" somewhere in the search, for example "stock seat value site:bmw2002faq.com" or "site:bmw2002faq.com stock seat value" and it will search only the website that you specify after "site:"

A normal license plate issued in 1976 Germany would be like the one in the photo, white background black letters. The first letters are the place where the car is registered, M for Munich, KN for Konstanz, BL for Balingen, etc. Then there's a dash and then two random letters then random numbers. If the area code is one letter like M, then there are four numbers at the end, if the area code is two letters like KN, then there are three numbers at the end.