albatcha

And also the bolsters feel smaller when you sit in them than they look in the photos. Theyre not that supportive. maybe a little more than a stock seat but less than an e21 recaro or an LS. And I say that as a relatively skinny/average size person.

I bought a single similar cheapo retro style bucket seat from ebay a couple years ago because I was curious. If it's similar, which it looks very much so, it looks the same except a different material and pattern on the centers, I wouldn't recommend it. Quite small, not comfortable. As minimal as possible of a tube frame with really just the butt cushion, but the cushion is a little too big, the rest is just the cover stretched over the tube. When I (6 feet tall 180 pounds) sit on it, the headrest is at my shoulder height. Doesn't seem satisfactory in terms of safety either, I use it in the house as a chair, not in any car.

Very cool, all the cars look very nice. I like this part, "Although they have their own following within the BMW community, ’02s are generally overlooked by the rest of the car world", oh how I and my wallet wish that were still true.

9 minutes ago, tme said:

As you said - interesting. The emissions test is part of the annual safety inspection in the counties that require it but antique cars (over 35 years old) are exempt from the safety inspection as well.  https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/title-registration/emissions-safety/Pages/safety-inspections.aspx

Exemptions

Vehicles more than 35 years old are exempt from the annual safety inspection.

Yes, for the 2002 and starting next year the 944, when registration renewal time comes around I just do it online, no need to go get it inspected.

Thats great news , interestingly though I had just looked this up for other reasons, the law does say

"No motor vehicle registered in this State that was manufactured after model year 1967 shall be operated in this State unless it is equipped with emissions control devices that were installed on the vehicle at the time the vehicle was manufactured and these devices are properly connected."

So technically all 2002's are required to have all their original emissions equipment in North Carolina, but they're just not checking for it.

The comment section on BAT always seems kind of weird to me, something about the way its a combined forum/social media/ auction site. At least this one made me laugh, as a spectator I wouldn't mind a Vgaetajr on every auction.

Based on this Realoem page

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1733-USA-12-1979-E21-BMW-320i&diagId=36_0030

If those are the 13x5.5 lemmerz wheels, then I think they might use the normal e21/2002/e30 center cap. 36131114180. But I have no personal experience with them so definitely measure the diameter of the opening and check.

I don't remember exactly how wide they are but I know they're narrower than 60mm, becuase they are too narrow for the 60mm opening on the BBS wheels.

That's just missing the center cap, I recently looked for some for my 13x6 BBS Mahles. These are the one for the 13x6 wheel from an e21, which has a 60mm Diameter hole for the cap.

36132200628

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/center-cap-motorsport-wheel-without-badge-36-01-08.html

If you have the 13x5.5 I'm not sure if they're the exact same part. I spoke to both the dealers near me about them and they said BMW's price was 7 or 8 dollars and they have 8000 of them in Germany, but some type of stoppage is not letting them order them here and they (the guys working the parts department) don't know why.

https://pqia.org/passenger-car-motor-oil/

They have test results for different oils here, not everything but they have quite a bit. They show stuff like ppm of all the different additives and viscosity at different temperatures. I saw here that Walmart full synthetic is actually a pretty good oil based on the testing, I use it in multiple normal cars, not the 2002 though, I use VR1 20w-50 in that.

40 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

 

https://www.aspwholesale.com/

 

https://store.alternatorparts.com

 

https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/

 

That's enough for now.

 

 

Do you know if any of them sell stators? I looked but I couldn't find it, they don't have the most easily navigable websites.

I had a real hard time finding a source for all the parts needed to fully rebuild the alternator. What I ended up doing is I found a good deal on a rebuilt one by Remy with no core charge for like $50 on ebay. I just swapped all the new internals from the rebuilt one into the old housing.

My alternator had seemed to be fine and then suddenly stopped. When I opened it up it was real bad, pretty much every single piece of it had at least one thing wrong with it. Worn brushes, broken and frayed wires, etc.

if you do it like me and just swap everything it's really easy it doesn't even take an hour. If you replaced individual pieces and you know how to solder it should still be pretty easy. everything is just held together by a few nuts and bolts.

"two owner"

I did it similar to NYNick, I marked where I thought the holes were with pencil then I used a sewing type of tape measure to compare the driver side to the passenger side if it was symmetrical, and also if the distance between the holes matched the clips and visor base, if the distance from the edge of the window seal was the same on both sides etc. And then once you punch through the headliner to put in the screw there is a little bit of wiggle room with the material if it's off center slightly. If you're scared to puncture the headliner use a thin needle first. And once you find one it's easier to tell if the other one is in the right spot.

I found the story I was thinking of, 10 year old tires stored indoors in bags, guy put them on the car and crashed, broke his neck, girlfriend died, killed the driver of another car he crashed into.

I also found another study that tested multiple tire brands and models at different ages and they found that some were failing when subjected to half the amount of force that the new version of the exact same tire failed at.

One person can tell you they never had problems with old tires, but compared to the data from the NHTSA and NTSB and many others that looks at information from years of laboratory experiments and hundreds of real world tires, that's like a congressman showing you a snowball and saying climate change isn't real.

I thought about it some more, now I'm thinking the best storage might be mounted, inflated fully once to seat it on the rim, then inflated to just above atmospheric pressure, that way it's sealed but the air inside the tire is not putting much force outwards on the rubber changing it's porousness.

And in response to mike, it's true that new tires can also fail, probably due to manufacturing issues, and it's true that old tires can be fine. But it seems as though the relation with age and tire failure is experimentally proven, all old tires might not fail but your old tires could be the ones that do, it's up to you to decide whether or not that's a big enough deal to you to change them. Same as all risk percentages in life.

For me, on my 944 with ten year old tires that had no problems, after reading the data I have decided not to put off getting new tires any longer.

It seems like if they are mounted on tires and properly inflated that is probably the best case scenario for tire life, being mounted and inflated minimizes the oxidation of the inside of the tire, compared to an unmounted tire exposed to the atmosphere inside and out. Plus being stored in a cooler place and not being flexed with the weight of the car and heated with the temperature from friction.

I found this article about tire degradation,

https://www.liveabout.com/the-science-of-tire-aging-3234377

It explains that the reason tires go bad is the oxidation, reaction with oxygen, of the rubber and all the adhesives. Temperature and usage can change the rate at which oxidation happens though. But unused tires can be just as bad or even worse regardless of storage or condition from visual inspection if they are old enough.

It also has some different groups reccomendations.

There was an article in classic motorsports magazine a while ago where a guy put tires that were visually good, no cracks or dry rot, on his triumph or something, they had been stored indoors no sunlight climate controlled, and on the highway they immediately disintegrated. I think they were older than 5 years though. I will try to find the article and what the recommendation was.

I am infrequently driving my Porsche 944 on tires that have been on the car parked outdoors only more than 10 years now, tread and sidewall cracking pretty badly, I don't take it on the highway though, and am currently deciding on new tires.

I did it with dash in, 74 one piece dash, and I can't see how it would be any easier by having it out. If the way the seal fits is the same for the two piece, if anything I would think it might be harder to get the little rubber lip on the inside of the seal to go over the edge of the dash if you're installing the dash after the seal.

I was just reinstalling the seals that were already on the car, I assume they were BMW so I don't know about the UROs. When I installed mine there really wasn't too much force on the glass at any point, it even has a pretty significant chip right in the center but I removed and reinstalled without ever feeling like it would break. If I already had the URO seal I would try it and then if it's no good get the BMW seal, then it'll be easier the second time too.

Also I thought it was pretty easy, and it was my first time installing a windshield. Lockstrip first, I just did it by hand, tool wasn't useful. Just spread the gap and push it in.  Have your helper put light pressure in the center and where the rope is being pulled out, pull only one end of the rope at a time, overlap the rope for at least half the length of the glass. after all the rope is out give the glass a couple light smacks with your palm and it'll settle and center itself. I used a clothesline type rope. Lockstrip install 15 minutes glass install rear took 20 minutes to figure out front took just 5.

https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=279963377

No affiliation just thought it was too cool not to share after I saw it.

Classic cars on copart often surprise me with how high they sell for, even with major body damage. I'm guessing that for people whose primary business is selling parts or repairing and flipping cars they have different spending limits than the enthusiast.

I wouldn't be surprised if it got up to or even above 10k.

Tell him you have a cousin in Minnesota who can meet him face to face for the cash, then see what he says.

10 hours ago, conkitchen said:

This site http://davidsclassiccars.com/ has always intrigued me with cool cars, although I find it hard to know with these cars the price and if still available. 

 

 

I believe that website is one like many i have found that simply copy and pastes craigslists and other ads in order to possibly scam people or definitely at least collect their information.

For example listings with odd text like this one that didn't copy and paste well.

http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/402637-1982-bmw-320is-112095-miles-red-320.html

Also there will be some that mention auctions which were probably copied from ebay.

http://davidsclassiccars.com/bmw/418273-1982-bmw-320is-e21-with-cold-ac.html

^This car I specifically remember seeing on craigslist and it sold very quickly.

Some other websites which I think are similar.

http://www.2040-cars.com/

http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/

They have been useful for looking up cars which sold on craigslist and the listing is no longer up, to find pictures and what types of asking prices people have had. Especially if it's a rarer car which there might not be multiples of posted at any given time.

I have a two tone/horn stebel on my car, sounds similar to this fiamm, typical italian air horn.

But whats in your photo is only the compressor , do you have the horns? because those are what will determine the sound.

I'm pretty sure the two things you said Inka'd02 were

1) " This said in the future it would be better to ask the seller directly on BAT instead of starting a 3 page thread that said seller has no idea about and hurts the sale of the car.  "

and

2) " To be clear, BAT allows direct messaging. In the past any questions or concerns, from experts not interested in bidding, or potential bidders, have been addressed privately through that interface."

So it seemed to me that you were saying you didn't want people discussing your car on the 2002faq. You wanted them asking you either privately or on the BAT comments.

Anyways I still disagree. Also you need an account on Bring a Trailer to comment or send a message to the seller. If you have an account and want to start a forum post about someones car and feel like taking the initiative to contact the seller good for you but I don't think it's your responsibility or obligation. Especially good for you if you feel like making an account just so you can tell the seller their car is being discussed.

If you're selling a valuable car online it's worth it to get a nice camera and spend a few hours taking lots of clear pictures. Two of the original points of this thread, the cut in the firewall and the shape of the holes which the fuel lines go through, as hard as I look I really can't tell what's going on in the pictures and I can't tell if they are correct or not. The firewall notch looks like a edge trim piece might have been put over it making it look odd and the holes in the trunk look like the textured paint and blurry photo might just be making it hard to see the shape. If the photos were good those two points wouldn't have existed and the third one for the fuel pump stuff would have been easy to say oh its just that one thing thats probably just something an owner did.

Based on the description it sounds like a lot of work was done and it's a pretty well sorted car, I think it should have bid higher in the current market, unless the market just happens to be changing at this very moment, but the primary reason it didn't is not this thread it's the poor photos and those poor photos are also what caused this thread I think. Instead of the lesson learned here being anything about talking to the seller, the lesson should be to the seller, if buying a camera and taking the time to take nice photos can raise the bidding on an auction more than they cost then you should do so. Even if you hired a high school kid who likes photography, for a hundred bucks they could really improve the listing. And don't show up butthurt at the "3 page thread that said seller has no idea about and" supposedly "hurts the sale of the car" thinking that that's the main reason the sale has been hurt.