albatcha
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Posts posted by albatcha
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That person at the end probably didn't think we'd be watching their crappy driving in 2020.
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I ordered a specific fitting coverking cover through Costco because they were on sale In august I think it was. I don't remember exactly when it was though and it just got here today. It was much longer than normal but I don't think it was 6+ weeks.
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Looks like it just sold on august 7th for $19,000, at a construction equipment auction.
There is one picture with the vin on top of the steering column trim thing in the auction photos. And in the photos on craigslist the license plate matches the plate number listed on the registration paper.
I'm guessing that the seller is not the one who did the shady vin things, since they just bought it. But the craigslist seller does say "A parts manager at a BMW dealership for 35 years, I HAVE massed a large collection of hard-to-find OEM parts such as seals, gaskets, ball joints, fuel injection tools, and a dash panel that will also be included.", so I would think they would be able to at least tell the difference between round and square.
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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2233-USA-03-1974-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=21_0099
looks like they're supposed to be M8X16, part number 07119913612.
I don't know if thats an m8 1.25 or 1.0 though.
also here it shows all the applications of that part, and it actually used in a ton of cars even up until 2013 1 and 3 series', that makes it a little more likely I think that It could be in stock at the dealer.
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Maybe, also if you can get the specs for the bolts maybe you can find them somewhere else locally. I only recently learned that here in Raleigh there's a "hardware store" that's a huge warehouse for nuts and bolts and things of all sizes and grades and materials etc.
Even some ace hardware stores have better selections of hardware than others, I have one that's my go to for metric nuts and bolts.
Other than the water pump on my 944 seizing up it's been a good weekend, how has it been for you.
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On 8/21/2020 at 2:27 PM, Russ Keller said:
I agree that it looks more like the hood is the problem than the nose panel, especially in this photo, the nose panel looks fairly straight and the tip of the hood looks more up than normal.
On 8/21/2020 at 5:07 PM, Russ Keller said:And if this photo is with the hood latched down, it also looks like the whole hood needs to come down. Do you have the little rubber stopper spacer things at the front corners of the hood near the turn signals? My hood is adjusted so the belt-line is straight across from the back of the car to the front and it's not touching the turn signals but I can only get a few sheets of paper in the gap between the hood and the top of the turn signals.
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Definitely looks too big
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23 hours ago, Gordon said:
I recently bought these rough project seats. They are out of a 86 Alfa Romeo GTV6. For $100 for the pair, I can't go wrong, well maybe on second thought.... A pic of the way they look now (leather is shot) and a pic of the same seats in cloth (not mine) in a 2002. Unknown who the seat manufacturer is for these seats.
A while ago when I was trying to find out if they are recaros, because so many people refer to them as gtv6 recaro or gtv6 recaro style seats, I found a list of cars with oe recaro seats and the gtv6 was listed, it cited an official page from recaro but the link was dead, and I can't find it right now. I will say the headrests look dimensionally identical to recaro fishnet headrests.
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It doesn't seem like there's really that much correlation between paint color and selling price, if you did a statistical analysis I don't think it would have a significant impact. The condition and mods seems to carry all the weight for normal 2002s.
But I will say, I don't really remember ever seeing an inka car's selling price and thinking, that guy got a good deal. But I have seen siennabraun, malaga, etc cars that I thought oh that was a good deal.
I'd guess top 5 in no particular order, inka, colorado, fjord, mintgrun, taiga.
Also if it was a modded car, with a motor to match the flares, I feel like a black car could do well, it might appeal to the e30 m3, e28 m5 crowd.
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Nevermind I'm stupid, i think I'm remembering using number 8 and number 10 screws, not the mm measurement.
10mm would be a huge screw lol.
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Almost all the screws in that area of the interior are 8 or 10 mm in various lengths.
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I think I remember them being 8 or 10 mm sheet metal screws, I'm leaning more towards 10mm.Length was not that long, less than an inch I think, But length isn't critical here either as long as it's long enough but not too long, so maybe 15mm or so length would be good.
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When I click on the file you provided I just say open with firefox, rather than save to computer.
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Yes I agree, but to clarify I still want to know who started the trend of wrinkle valve/rocker/cam cover finish, and why did they choose to do it, just out of curiosity. If you who knows the answer come across this thread even in five years or more I give you permission to revive it. I'll take the blame.
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Lol thanks everyone, now I'm thinking I should paint my valve cover again, since the old wrinkle paint came off. Sounds like there's a lot of good reasons.
AustrianVespaGuy that sounds very possibly the real explanation. A little bit of googling and I see it looks like a lot of ferrari engines like the 250 gto were using magnesium valve covers too. Then maybe we were just copying the fancier cars.
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"15 grand these days will get you an okay tii"
Does it? Where do I find these okay tii s?
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I tried looking this up but could only find people talking about how to do a wrinkle finish on a valve cover, no actual experts talking about why it is done.
Does anyone here know? Why did we start putting wrinkle finishes on valve/rocker covers? Is there an actual benefit? Or at some point did we think there was a benefit?
I'm guessing it might be like gold painted wheels. Something we copied from race cars, where the look was related to the purpose. If you didn't know, all those magnesium racing wheels are gold because they dipped the bare magnesium in a chemical to protect it from corrosion, and that process gives it the gold color.
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Does this website have the correct info? Who knows
http://partinfo.org/bmw-32111115346/
"Steering Gear
Lath without G/U BMW 3 E-21 1975-1984"What is Lath without G/U? Also who knows, not me.
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Didn't find any official info, but this ebay seller
says his rack with the same part number was pulled from a 77 320i.
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Looks kind of like this one.
Or maybe this one
Or maybe they're the same one. I'd guess late production e3 or early production e12. Maybe e9 too if they came with steel wheels.
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I don't know exactly how correct they are, but the whole blog page has a lot of interesting information. I used to use VR1 20w50 synthetic, but now I use 0w40 mobil-1 synthetic european car formula with the "fs" on the bottle year round in North Carolina, even when it's 100 degrees fahrenheit. Oil pressure is a little lower than with 20w50 when hot, but never below the "necessary" amount of pressure at all RPMS. And engine temperature is similar or ever so slightly insignificantly lower, not water temp, oil temp and temp of the metal, so I believe that the oil flow is still plenty.
Synthetic oil is better, the people who say old car's need dino oil were putting the most modern oil available in their car in the 1970's, they just got stuck in their old habits while science, the industry, and other people moved on.
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20 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:
I posted this before. Really not much difference between the synthetic or Dino. Dino slight edge, but probably splitting hairs.
Either is an excellent choice for our 2002's.
Actually Re-reading that post, based on the zddp levels and the first part of the article, I would use Dino for break in and switch to the synthetic.
ZDDP at 1500 may be a bit too much for long term use. But I am no expert.
I'm not sure if the post you linked to was posted originally by the one who goes as 540 RAT, but if you go to 540 RAT's blog it is more up to date with newer info.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
They say this of the 20w50 vr1 oil:
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67. 20W50 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, conventional = 97,677 psi
This oil claims high zinc/phos.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
It was tested Summer 2019. The psi value above, produced by this oil, came from testing it at the normal operating water-cooled engine test temperature of 230*F, which put it in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category. But, this oil is way too thick for most any water-cooled engine. However, it is ideal for air cooled engines, which cannot control their oil temperatures well. And it is popular with air-cooled Harley Davidson Motorcycle Owners. So, for their benefit, I also tested this oil at the much higher test temperature of 275*F.At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. But, this oil only had a very small 3% drop in capability. And even at that elevated temperature, it produced 94,850 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was an impressive 285*F."
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Finishing my Dad's 2002tii-Legacy Project Story
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
I used 3m double sided tape for my door and trunk seals, After finishing cleaning off all the old glue I wanted to avoid using glue at all costs. It sticks great to the metal, and comes off fairly easily if need be. It doesn't always stick well to the seal itself though, in a couple of spots I had to remove the tape and try again with new tape. There may be a better type of tape than the one I used that wouldn't have that issue, but it still works pretty well, 1.5 years in and still sticking.
Also for the under hood insulation to avoid glue I lined the backside of the pads with magnets and then glued a layer of vinyl over that side.