albatcha

@d.hitchcock I try to convince people I meet at cars and coffee to bring their triumphs but they never do.

@HobieDog Thanks! It's a Stahl header into a big resonator then some pipes and then a store brand glasspack.

Or if you just want to come check it out and see me in my 02, spectators are very welcome!

Last saturday was the Tar Heel Sports Car Club's (THSCC) per annum night event at Southern National Motorsports Park. I was this time the only participant to show up in HCS class, and therefore won first in class. However I did beat a couple of miatas in raw time.

I spent friday night preparing my new cosmetic modifications for the event (underglow).

And here is the footage from my fastest run.

And here is the BIG NEWS!!!

Sunday August 6th, for the first time in years THSCC will be hosting an autocross actually in the triangle at PNC Arena!

THSCC Autocross Jimmy V Fundraiser

WWW.MOTORSPORTREG.COM

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Tarheel Sports Car Club on Sunday, August 6, 2023 at PNC Arena, Raleigh, NC - We are very excited to announce the return of THSCC autocross to Raleigh! Please join Tarheel Sports Car Club for our 15th V Foundation Benefit Autocross, hosted this year by PNC Arena. Expect a...

Right now we've got me in my 74 tii, a 79 Alfa Sprint Veloce, and 71 Opel GT in HCS class. So if you're in the triangle area, and looking for something fun to do on Sunday August 6th why not bring your 02 or any other car you want out for a fun day of autocross!

If you're interested but feeling some trepidation reach out and ask me any questions you want, I hope to see you all out there.

Once again the Tar Heel Sports Car Club hosted a great autocross event, this time at Southern National Motorsports Park in Lucama. I know there are a few 02 owners in the Raleigh,Durham, Chapel Hill Area. Why not bring your 02 out to a fun autocross event? We can turn HCS into 2002 class, and you can try to take first in class from me. The next one is May 21 at Rockingham Speedway.

edit: shoutout to @nickmakesandbreaks for the photo, a fellow THSCC autocrosser who sometimes brings his 1979 Alfa Sprint Veloce out to compete.

For the all black one, that's the sort of thing they use in oval race cars and the foam grip is very much utilitarian and durable. Not pleasant to the touch with a bare hand.

The wood classic style ones I have no experience, I'd say try it and report back but get it from someone with a good return policy.

I also had seen a car with that certificate on BaT a while ago and looked into it.

At the time they had two different services, one is just that certificate which is just the vin number, the build date, the color etc.

The full inspection of the car was a different service. I think I might have copy pasted their wording on a post here if you can find it.

One thing about the new pads is that the passenger side back for the 74 and earlier cars has not been available for a while. The recommended method is to use the driver side for both and modify the bottom corners where they are different.

Looked at the float, it was at 36mm, I remembered that what was weird about it was that I couldn't easily get it at the right level and still have enough travel at the ball. I realized someone previously had bent it in a weird way, not sure if thats normal, so I bent it back and set it to 34.3mm and 44.3mm at the lowest as per the haynes manual. Don't think I have a good way to test it until the next autocross so we'll see then. I'm also going to check how accurate my fuel pressure gauge is and maybe try a different one, not going to mess with jets yet without actually measuring A/F, since the problem has only shown up in a very specific situation and not when accelerating and lifting in a straight line I have doubts that it's directly caused by jets and mixture.

Right its a 38/38 dgas downdraft. I followed somebody's instructions and measurements for setting the level I forget whose but I remember there was something weird about it like the numbers suggested didn't quite make sense but i set it there anyways.  

I did it a couple years ago and don't remember the exact details. 

Thanks for the advice. Now I've got some idea where to start.

A little more info in case it helps narrow anything down. Gas tank was between 1/2 and 3/4 full and the gauge is reasonably accurate.

On the fourth run I had a similar problem in the same spot but not as bad, I was on the gas through that last "slalom" and it was accelerating then would stutter then accelerate then stutter.

On the fifth run in the video I swing out to the left away from the shed which someone crashed into earlier this year, back to the right, then I lift a little to make that left turn to go straight into the last "slalom" and after that lift and fast left I try to ease back onto the throttle and nothing happens, it's like I'm coasting in gear. Then I lift off completely wait a second and press the gas again and I get that little stutter, lift off completely again and press the gas again and get that stutter again. Then I coast to the middle of the final sweeper and try to accelerate out of it and everything is normal again.

Took the 2002 for the first time to an autocross, in the same spot on my fourth and fifth runs I had an issue where there was no power and it sounded like a truck engine braking when I tried to press the gas. Any ideas what it is? It's a tii with a weber 38, fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, and MSD ignition. And float, jets, and regulator pressure were adjusted about a year ago.

You can hear twice around 47 to 50 seconds I try to give it some gas and it just makes that deep rattle noise.

It's possible that what you describe could be normal. Depending on how all the way in you mean.

On my car I would say the idle mixture screws only have an easily noticeable effect from all the way tightened to like 0.5 to 1 turns out. I think I remember the adjustment instructions saying something like when the idle is good if you have the mixture screws turned out more than 1.5 turns get bigger jets, less than 0.5 turns get smaller ones.

The FTC has rules for online purchases that when you order something online it has to be delivered to you as agreed. If they didn't deliver what you ordered then you are owed a refund, regardless of whether you returned or not. Returning the incorrect item is a favor to the seller.

If they won't voluntarily refund you use the credit card dispute to force them to, or if you didn't use a credit card you sue them.

11 hours ago, jp5Touring said:

Would agree I couldn't do 25k.  12k to 15k would be my guess. 

Negatives for me are incorrect front grill and front body nose piece, not a fan of the mirrors or

the black engine bay and trunk area.

Curious what he thinks is the Alpina  package.

If you can spend 25k you could do much better.

My 02 cents worth ?  good luck in your search.

You misread, it's the Alphine package not Alpina.

On 8/16/2022 at 12:58 PM, bergie33 said:

Here are a couple of other places I found it:

 

http://www.diyupholsterysupply.com/2WPBL203.html

 

https://www.onlinefabricstore.com/product-group-foam-and-padding.aspx?product=upholstery-hair 

Also, $15 off purchase of $75 or more with coupon code "15cart".

 

 

 

A while ago I ordered one foot of the blue stuff from online fabric store in your second link, the density is much lower than in the original material and it compresses very easily. It seems very much for old fashioned furniture with thick soft cushions, not for thin dense cushions like in 02s.

Also the vdo sensors lighting up at 14.7psi is not universally true. So be careful. I chose my sensor based on the specs and it stated the warning was at 7psi.

Another possibility is that the time the flickering light started happening is coincidental, and it's just a bad oil pressure switch or sensor. I had a vdo sensor stamped '73 and the warning light would flicker at idle and the needle of the oil pressure gauge would bounce up and down a lot, switched it with a new one and now the gauge reads more steady, it doesn't bounce below the low pressure mark, and the warning light never comes on.

I would say in order of easiness, check the oil level and weight first, then check the switch and the pressure, then look deeper into the engine after that.

The fast scraping kind of noise when the diff is not under heavy load would lead me to agree with you that it might be the pinion bearing. Did you try shaking it to check for obvious bad play, with or without driveshaft attached? On my minivan that had a loud bad bearing I could pull the flange in and out and up and down by hand. Maybe try rotating by hand and listening for any subtle noise with engine off.

It may not help in this case if its loud and seems like it's from everywhere but I sometimes put a small diameter pvc pipe up to my ear and wave the other end around to find noise sources.

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

In western Washington we have a subset of drivers to make fun of, the Ballard driver, Ballard was a heavily Scandinavian area of Seattle with lots of old duffers, here's how to drive the Ballard way.

 

 

Very funny, and ...

relevant

30 minutes ago, resra said:

Whatever happened to the days when you could go into any BMW dealer, present your registration card, a photo id and pay like $30 (maybe $100 now) and get a key made in within a week. I'm sure they still do it but since Covid i'm not sure whats going on at the dealerships anymore.  Hey, worth a call. 

 

 

 When I asked last year at my local dealer they said they could only get blanks, they couldn't have one made for me.

1 hour ago, AceAndrew said:

Jim’s hit the nail on the head.

 

….and holy guacamole, reading that circus of a comments section just makes me that much more grateful for you gentlemen and ladies here on the FAQ.

Lol, this is exactly who I was talking about in the other thread about flashing headlights and waves. The muscle car driver.

"I'd like to see Hagarty stick to the USA. I have no interest in foreign vehicles. "

In NC I would say there's only a consistent response from e34 and older BMWs, other old european cars, and modded Japanese cars. Old corvettes, old american cars, muscle cars, old trucks, new BMWs etc aren't interested, I don't bother trying to open communications with those drivers.

They look like the wheels I've seen referred to as "Carroll Shelby Wheels"

"Only if the provenance of your classic is impeccably documented can its value be assessed. That’s where the BMW Classic Vehicle Certificate comes in.
With this certificate you can have the production and delivery details for your BMW classic or modern classic (at least 20 years old) confirmed in writing."

So it's a 100 euro mail order vin decoder. Value probably nothing.