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Shawn Piper

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Everything posted by Shawn Piper

  1. I finally got my heater box back from PRDesignSF (https://prdesignsf.com) and I wanted to share my experience here since it was a good one. My car is a 1969 model year. Its currently going through a full restoration. The heater box had a frozen motor, cracks and breaks in the plastic, a broken cable and lots of rust / dirt... it was in bad shape. I contacted Brendan Pramono at PRDesignSF about restoring my heater box. I sent him the box and he disassembled it for me. The metal parts were returned to me and I had them blasted and re-plated. The plating shop ended up being disreputable and disappeared on me for a several months (long story). Brendan was a total saint and didn't pressure me while I went through the hell of trying to get my parts back and have them plated somewhere else. I sent back the re-plated parts and Brendan rebuilt my heater box. Took about a month to complete the work despite all the COVID19 stuff. He pressure tested the core and removed the rust, upgraded my heater valve to a new version (since mine cant be rebuilt), added new foam and grommets throughout, new cables, and addressed the cracks. He also added a new motor but used my old fan blade, which was zinc plated. Total cost including shipping was $1239, minus the plating. It was expensive but the heater box looks fantastic and I couldn't be happier.
  2. I'm looking for a nice gasket for a swan neck mirror. If anyone has one, please let me know. Thanks
  3. I work at HP and we're building 3D printers for metal (Metal Jet 3D). Its being developed primarily for future "lights out" manufacturing purposes and could enable the future creation of specialized/limited run parts for specialized industries. https://www8.hp.com/us/en/printers/3d-printers/products/metal-jet.html One of the big challenges we've had is part deformation/shrinking when the part is heated/baked to make sure the metal powder forms a strong, solid part. Another issue is the finishing of the parts, as they don't look machined. We are overcoming these issues and I would expect to see this on the market in the coming years.
  4. I've heard it is RAL 7043. You can find a swatch here: http://www-db.deis.unibo.it/courses/TW/DOCS/w3schools/colors/colors_ral.asp.html
  5. Yeah, they are expensive. It might not make sense depending on what you’re doing with your car. I had 5 pieces done (upper dash, lower dash, glove box cover, steering col. pads). Total invoice including shipping was $2412.
  6. I agree - I had my dash done at Just Dashes and it turned out perfectly in that its practically indistinguishable from a NOS/OEM dash. It took about 3 months to complete. While you're at it, have them also do your steering column pads too.
  7. I’m looking for rear interior panels in blue and black. Im specifically looking for panels that haven’t been cut for a seatbelt (no hole in the black section). Thanks!
  8. I'm doing a hub cap refurbishment and I want to zinc plate my hub cap retainers/clips as they are rusty or missing. Anyone do this before and have recommendations on the correct replacement rivet? It looks like the original rivets are domed and flush on both sides. The hole is 5mm diameter. I'm having a really difficult time finding rivets meeting these specifications.
  9. Thanks guys, I’m hoping to track down a metal one since I have an earlier car! I guess I’ll go plastic if all else fails
  10. I’m looking for the metal washer that goes behind the window crank. Pictures and parts diagram attached for reference. Thanks!
  11. I found that the trick is to over wrap the trim and tamp it down before trimming. It lets you get nice ends. I’ll definitely be doing this on my cars door panels.
  12. I bought mine on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q2GFSK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Depending on your tendency toward perfectionism, you could probably have a professional do your panels.
  13. I’m I’ve read a few posts about ways to restore the interior chrome door trim. Most involve aluminum tape or Mylar tape. I’ve had bad luck with both of these (adhesion is poor, not easy to apply) so I decided to try chrome vinyl car wrap. I have no experience with car wrapping but it turned out ok on a spare door panel. With some practice and prep work (cleaning, removing the old Mylar coating, and sanding the surface smooth), I think the car wrap would look very good. The wrap material is very forgiving and stretches around corners and bends. I bought mine on amazon and used a plastic spudger stick (for electronics) to apply it. I spent maybe 5 minutes prepping the surface and the imperfections in the old Mylar tape can be seen through the wrap. Anyways, if you have bad door trim, this might be the solution for you.
  14. I’m looking for some straight, dent free hub caps that I can recondition. I’m looking for the style that was common after 1969/1970.
  15. I just recently got a speaker grill, but thank you!
  16. Sorry about that, I was tearing down my seats this weekend and noticed that those parts were basically shattered and not repairable. To to make it worth your while, I’d buy both complete seat hinges just Incase I need other parts if you’d like.
  17. Yeah! I guess they are more of a dust cover?
  18. Actually that cover is from a 69 car, but it’s not the outside covers that you’re showing. The cover is on the inside of the seat. Attached are are pictures for reference. My car has the chrome hinges.
  19. I’m looking for a set of intact inner seat hinge covers. These go on cars from the late 60s to mid 70s. Mine are a little worse for wear and I’m looking for a set without cracks etc to rebuild my seats. Picture attached for reference
  20. I’ve seen a few so I’m hoping they’re not unobtainable. Last month there was one on eBay for $100 and I missed out on buying it ☹️
  21. Here is the style I’m looking for, it has chrome trim
  22. I’m looking for a speaker grill and mounting hardware for a short center console. I would buy the whole console if needed.
  23. I’m looking for a 1600/2002 choke cable assembly (includes the knob and associated parts to attach the cable to the steering wheel shroud). I’m looking for the early style (mid-late 60s). Picture is attached for reference. Thanks!
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