Jump to content

Shawn Piper

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Everything posted by Shawn Piper

  1. I found out my car was sold new through Schneider Motors in Anaheim. I'm looking for a license plate frame for my restoration. Let me know if you have one that you want to sell.
  2. Can anyone ID these? There are 6 sets. I got these back from my mechanic and some bolts are stripped. I’m looking to buy new ones but I’m not sure what they are. They look similar to caliper bolts.
  3. Looks like a nice car - shame it went that way. Hopefully someone with the skill and money will buy it as a project.
  4. I just sent you a private message with my contact info. Thank you!
  5. I’m looking to replace mine and I noticed there are massive price differences between the different brands. Febi/Bilstein/Rein are all about $20. BMW brand is $200-300. Is there really that much quality difference to warrant the price increase?
  6. The only experience I have is with sound insulation in the car. If you're trying to save some of the original paint because you're not painting all the way down in the engine bay, try using a plastic scraper (like this ) and a heat gun to lift up and scrape off the insulation. GooGone and shop rags will take care of the rest. I've also used dry ice and a dead blow hammer but that only works on a horizontal surface.
  7. It depends on how far you want to go with it, but if you're going through the trouble of repainting your engine bay, I think you should replace the firewall insulation. You can still buy it new from BMW (Part #51487450110). I'd also take out the pedal box and clean it up / rebuild it if needed. Generally, its probably a good time to inspect all the other rubber pieces (bushings etc) and replace them since you're in there. And of course you can degrease the engine and stuff... yeah, engine bay stuff tends to creep up on you 😆 Not sure where you are in SoCal, but Miramar Autobody was recommended to me by La Jolla Independent. I ended up having my whole car done at SoCal Paintworks, which I think does a better job, but they just want the bigger jobs. What kind of price did you get quoted from Karp’s?
  8. Thanks guys for the reference pics!
  9. I’m looking for a door stop, driver side. Picture for reference
  10. Cool thanks. I have another question... The plater says they usually chrome the front and leave the backside rough (usually paint the backsides silver or black). He can chrome backside for an additional fee. Any recommendations for doing this? What did BMW do at the factory?
  11. I’m having my 2002 bumpers chrome plated. The plater said there is a hole in the rear bumper that he thinks should be welded up. I can’t recall if this was used for something or was drilled by a previous owner. In fact I don’t remember seeing it at all. Anyone know? Bumpers go on a US spec 1969 model. Hole is circled in photo.
  12. The other thing that makes these scarce is the 407 series was used on 60s Porsches and Ferraris. The owners of these tend to have deep pockets and have bid them up quite high. The last nice set (fronts only) went for $500 on eBay. Crazy eh? http://dino246blog.blogspot.com/2013/01/buckle-up-seat-belt-restoration-begins.html?m=1
  13. Wow that’s a hell of a crash! You weren’t hurt? I’m glad the Klippans work because I have every intention of using them again when I get a complete set My car is VIN 1666597 and was manufactured on June 19th, 1969. To make things more confusing, my car actually came with 407P seatbelts. The fronts were missing but the back ones were tucked under the seats and heavily corroded. On the 2002/1602, I’ve also seen 407B (68 & 69), 407C (69), and 517 (68 and 69). Most of these have been too rough for use, but they all seem relatively similar in length and use identical hardware. Klippan 407BE (69) came in a 2800 I saw, and used similar hardware to other 407 variants. I’m presuming the letters might have something to do with length or perhaps there were minor changes to the hardware that aren’t perceptible unless you do a direct compare. On some cars the front and backs don’t match. Given the unclear letter designations and rarity of nice seatbelts, I’d pretty much take any 407 seatbelts with a 69 date code. After 1970, Klippan switched to 225 (rear) and 227 (front). These mounted to the B pillar buckled to a wire over the trans tunnel. I have a very nice set of these (Dated 1970) and was intending to use them since I found NOS interior panels and didn’t want to cut them for seatbelts, but now I’m rethinking.. at least for my collection and OCD
  14. Good to know, I'd be interested in a set of those too. B or C
  15. I should start a thread here to document the build. I've been learning a lot from you and others, which has helped me substantially! The challenge I'm having is finding all the 1969 year specific parts as someone updated the car's appearance to a later style. I also started buying a lot of things before I knew what was correct (doh!), but here's the state of missing 1969 specific things: - Steel wheels (found) - Early style hub caps (not found). I did get 5 perfect later style hub caps which will do for now. - Swan neck mirror and gasket (found). I lucked out and got a NOS mirror. - Klippan seat belts (not found). I did buy a nice set from 1971. - Silver wiper arms and vintage 13" trico blades (found) - Grills with painted slats (found). I got a new set and had the slats painted. - Center console and 1969 Blaupunkt stereo and Hirschmann antenna (found). - Solex single carb, dated code correct intake manifold, air cleaner (found). Bob at SoCal Paintworks is doing the restoration. Seats are being done by Autobahn Interiors (per your recommendation) with covers/carpet from World Upholstery. I'm hoping to finish it this year, but COVID is slowing it all down!
  16. I'm looking for something kinda specific... 1969 date code, Klippan Lyfe Lok Mod. 407C front seat belts. Got in a bidding war and only won the rear seat belts. I'm hoping someone has a nice front set here on the forum that they would sell.
  17. Do you have to drill new holes for installation?
  18. I have a June 1969 BMW 2002. I’ve noticed there are two styles of hub cap and I’m wondering when they made the change so I can get the right caps for my car. The earlier one doesn’t have its own valve stem hole and the centers are painted. It seems the transition happened in 68 or 69?
  19. I would buy another one to rebuild. I wouldnt try to use or repair that damage. If it fails, it will be a huge pain to fix again.
  20. Yeah I had pretty much everything plated except the electrical board.
  21. I finally got my heater box back from PRDesignSF (https://prdesignsf.com) and I wanted to share my experience here since it was a good one. My car is a 1969 model year. Its currently going through a full restoration. The heater box had a frozen motor, cracks and breaks in the plastic, a broken cable and lots of rust / dirt... it was in bad shape. I contacted Brendan Pramono at PRDesignSF about restoring my heater box. I sent him the box and he disassembled it for me. The metal parts were returned to me and I had them blasted and re-plated. The plating shop ended up being disreputable and disappeared on me for a several months (long story). Brendan was a total saint and didn't pressure me while I went through the hell of trying to get my parts back and have them plated somewhere else. I sent back the re-plated parts and Brendan rebuilt my heater box. Took about a month to complete the work despite all the COVID19 stuff. He pressure tested the core and removed the rust, upgraded my heater valve to a new version (since mine cant be rebuilt), added new foam and grommets throughout, new cables, and addressed the cracks. He also added a new motor but used my old fan blade, which was zinc plated. Total cost including shipping was $1239, minus the plating. It was expensive but the heater box looks fantastic and I couldn't be happier.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.