rcf925

Amsoil Makes a synthetic with Zinc, That's probably what I'm gunna run after I hit The 2500 mile mark

I'd highly recommend Hal Boyles TI replica linkage, I tried a couple cable linkages with poor results, His mechanical linkage works perfect

They just did mine at the Santa Fe Springs  location, Turn around was 5 days, But it came to me clocked in the wrong position, Master would have been at 45 degree angle, I returned and got it back in 1 day with an apology and discount on any further work. It's mounted and I now have my power brakes back. Been driving almost a year without booster hooked up

No AC, Restomod, No PWM Controller as I hardly ever use fan, Just have fused relay with on-off switch

Replacement for engine driven fan with aluminum radiator, Get a few extra HP without mechanical fan

I went with a 12" pusher on the front of Radiator, I had an old BMW factory fan laying around, Not to loud. To be honest I rarely turn it on even on hot days, Just don't really need it. About the only time I run fan is when I'm idling in driveway doing some tuning

On my 68 I went with E21 master with reservoir on top, And still have separate clutch reservoir both hooked up to low fluid light. I like having the clutch and brake fluid separate 

Since I didn't have driveshaft doing my build with 5spd, I bought IE driveshaft and it fir perfect, By the time I checked out buying a used shaft and having it shortened it wasn't much more money to just buy the rebuilt and finished like new one from IE

Last week I was driving mine to get gas, I was sitting in traffic and a guy maybe 30 yrs. old driving a giant 4X4 yells out at me " That car is Bad Ass"  You never know who is gunna appreciate these cars

I woulda pulled a Ford  inline 4 Eco-Boost from junkyard with all the computer stuff, 300 plus HP with reliability, If your going to all the trouble why not

I've had metal and glass shards drilled out of my 3 times, Twice on cars, Once in construction, All three times I was wearing safety glasses which isn't quite enough, I think face shields have the added protection

What to watch for is trans temps if you have a gauge, If not you will probably get a light on the dash, If you have manual don't worry about it

39 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

 

 

Ah ok. then you're 60f9 idle jet (these two factors identify a single jet... F9 is the air correction hole drilled in the side of the 60 jet itself), 130 main, 160 air, and 34 chokes.

 

Don't wanna derail the OP's post, but that sounds like a crazy rich setup, but of course every motor is different. Did ya ever get a wideband? A 60F9 in my car wouldn't even register a number on my wideband when on the progressions, which stops at 10:1. If I were to combine that with a 130/160 , you for sure aren't going to be getting a lean stumble, because I  think that would also make for an extremely rich midrange/top end. 

 

According to my not-so-great memory of  my recent tuning (I'd have to go back, it's been a little while), I found a 130/180 main/air and a 55f8 idle jet with 34 chokes nets me a max 10.5-11.5:1 at WOT, which is quite rich. 125/170 is closer to 12.5, and a 175 gets me closer to 12.8-13 at WOT. 

 

But the OP's motor is running more cam than me-292 vs 304, and i'm sure there's enough other differences in there as well.

 

Of note though, if you look at that dyno note sheet it says that the motor wasn't brought to WOT or lugged (I assume meaning, applied load). It says it's just run-in on the dyno, which doesn't necessarily mean the jetting was really dialed in on the dyno either, so maybe there's room for improvement?

 

If ya don't end up getting it fully sorted yourself, don't rule out taking it to a guru who knows DCOE's either. If ya like the act of driving more than the hobby of fiddling and throwing away money on jets, it's a good option

 

But do eliminate all other potential variables before assuming your jetting is the problem!

Just received wideband today, So will see where I'm at hopefully by weekend, I'm curious to see where I'm at also

  23 hours ago, rcf925 said:

I cured same problem by changing idle air jet from 50 to 60

Ya keep saying this on allot of DCOE posts, but 50 or 60 WHAT.

Sorry for confusion, My setup is F9, 160 air corrector jet, 60 Idle jet, 130 main, 34mm choke

My emulsion tube is F9, Don't change yours yet, Just the idle air jet that pushes into bottom of idle jet holder, Takes like 5 minutes to change all four. If you have a 50, Start with increase to 55, If that doesn't help go to 60. If none of that helps just go back to what you had and look elsewhere. Jets are marked on them what they are 50,60 etc

I cured same problem by changing idle air jet from 50 to 60

I'm probably the odd man out here but I'd just give him his deposit back, If the buyer is the kind of person who flakes on the purchase, If he was to buy it he's also probably the kind that will end up calling you after purchase to bitch about something and make your life hell, Why not just sell to someone who will be exited to get the car

Good luck with PayPal, They seem to side with buyers more than sellers no matter how wrong they are.  On another note when it comes to selling cars I don't take deposits, Just full payment, I don't hold cars for anybody. You want it, Pay up

Everything is new but the temp sensor which I think I'm going to replace, I've taken gauge apart and added ground wire. Usually mine is at 4 oclock but lately all over the map

These water temp gauges are not very accuarate,  When mines pointing to bottom of red zone on gauge radiator is at 190F  Block even cooler. It depends on how good of ground on the gauge and water temp sensor. Break out an Infared and check where your really at when gauge is pointing 3 oclock

Over the last 2 years I built my 68 resto-mod from the ground up. started with suspension, IE sway bars, Bilstein adj. coil overs, some poly, some rubber bushings and mounts as not to get vibration in drive train, Gertrag 245, 3.91 LSD, E21 Vented disc up front braking system including Master, Fully Balanced and blueprinted motor, Racetek forged 10:1 CR pistons . Ported head off race car, 292 cam which will shake some at idle of 900, If you bump to 1000 pretty much smooths out, dual dcoe italian 45's, Pertronix with flamethrower coil. To me I got what I wanted, A street, Track car that criuses at 80mph all day long, Plenty of low, Mid and high range torque and spins freely to 7500 and beyond.   I highly recomend the balancing of rotating mass, Motor so smooth, Cheap and well worth it

I bought Bosch O2 sensor.  Trying to make this simple as possible so will use gauge I bought since I got a restomod anyway. I mounted my bung pretty close to where Chargin's is at 1 oclock position

I found correct sensor for unit, Thanks for the help  Bosch LSU4.2 part # 17014

So I'm seeing a lot of 6 pin 5 wire O2's, Does that work

OK, 6 it is, I have a bunch of 4 wire laying around, Figures those won't work