rcf925

1977 E21 brake rotors are 1 year only vented, May be those

Great running 02, Would like to know the specs on that motor

My 68 had a perfect body, But while it sat in garage for 20 years stuff happens, Another car rolled into right rear and crushed right rear corner. I'm no body and paint guy but I wanted to get up and driving I decided to bang it out myself, While definately not professional it will do til I do a full re-spray. I think you could pull bumper and repair your damage, I think mine was worse cause it involved the tail light area

Out here in CA I don't think it makes a difference, Weather is great all the time

What Hal says above is exactly what I had to do so rod fit properly

I put Hals linkage on about 6 months ago and haven't touched carbs since, It's the best out there, And believe me I tried a few before buying his

Saw this on Craigslist browsing, Price seems a little high to me. Just thought I'd put it out there

https://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/d/castroville-1972-bmw-2002-tii-project/7240690186.html

Did you prime timing chain tensioner after rebuild ?  That may be your problem

It hit 119 here for a couple days on the central coast in CA this summer. Broke records

I've used Acetone with good results

Before I got my 68 back on the road it sat for 20 years, Blower didn't work, But I didn't feel like ripping dash apart. From engine compartment I turned it with screw driver on fan blade, I then sprayed Kroil on top of shaft where bearing is and repeated a few times over the next week, Then I dripped some Marvel mystery oil on it and it works now, I try to run it even when I don't use it to keep getting oil in it, So far so good

Your build is pretty similar to mine with DCOE Italian 45's   Mine idles at 900 with slight lope, I have AFR gauge and with this set-up cruising @ 3000rpm AFR bounces around on 14:1. No issues at all, No flat spots. I am going to put it on a dyno with wideband to confirm AFR especially at WOT

Mains-130

emulsion tube-F9

Idle air - 60

Idle corrector jet- 190

34mm venturis

When I got my 68 in pieces a couple years ago, I did have a set of Blue Books and they were invaluable, Any time I had a question they were my first go to and usually had an answer, Mines a restomod so for the hotrod stuff I had myself and this website to help

18 hours ago, Lucian said:

INTERESTING, share, I found  braded ground wire 27" long (3')  and before order, had to mess with it ... pic in trunk neg on sender to brown wire on tail light (bounced as usual)  under bonnet brown  neg in view so connect... it is connected to sheet metal  and other end to  bell housing and started it and rev a little, it worked no bounce, I have a new short sender and will be putting that in, after  if bouncy gauge or not.. braided neg (maybe will need cloth wrap and similar routing  will drive around Monday to dbl test  and thanks to RCF925

It's the small frustrating things that bring joy when you figure them out, It's taken me about year after putting my 68 together to get it pretty much sorted

Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) gauge would help, You have to weld O2 bung into your down pipe, Some wiring, Not hard. But you can tune without it but lots of trial and error, It took me almost a year of fiddling to dial mine in, But once done you can pretty much forget about it

My build is similar to yours, .292 Cam, Ported E12 head 10:1 CR, Italian 45DCOE. I'm also at your 800 elevation. Right now my cruising AFR is at 13.7 with this jetting. F9 emulsion, 185 air corrector, 60 Idle air, 130 main, 34mm venturis The only thing I might change on mine is air corrector jet to lean out a little more but it runs great with no issues. Every motor is different but maybe this would get you into the ball park

I used 1/4" braided ground strap from bell housing bolt to brown ground wire on firewall

15 hours ago, 200Duece said:

The radiator you installed, 2 row or 3 row ?

Pretty sure it's a 2 row

I had bouncing in my temp gauge since I put my car together and some inaccuracy with fuel gauge. I created new ground on back of gauges, That helped some, But what finally fixed everything was I put a ground strap from bell housing bolt to firewall ground, Bingo, All gauges function correctly

When I rebuilt my M10 last year I replaced everything in the head cause it wasn't that expensive, Rockers,shafts,Cam, Headbolts etc.

I've been running Miata AGM , Works great and is small, Paid $100 on-line

As far as reliability the M10 is pretty much bullet proof, Last year I built my motor for less than half $5000 and wouldn't hesitate to drive across country with it. With the 5spd it's a fun car to drive and is pretty darn fast and like IRdave said pretty easy to put in car

I find WN shipping rates to be insane, I usually find what I need in the states

I really like the 5 speed on freeway, 3.90 gears , cruises at 80 3500 rpm, 1st gear is a stump puller, most the time I just take off in 2nd if I'm rolling at all

27 minutes ago, cagedbunny said:

 

 

How did you fit the rad and fan into the car?  I have the same radiator, but there is almost no room between it and the water pump pulley, so I couldn't *tilt* the radiator into place with a fan attached on the front..  Was about to fabricate some brackets to hold the fan directly to the nose of the car instead.

Mine is a 68 2002, I attached Fan to front of Radiator first, Then  just angled it in, wasn't difficult and have about a inch clearance from water pump to radiator